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In Zones 1 through 7, March is probably a little early to be digging in the dirt, but this is the perfect month to do some long range planning. Need to move shrubs or transplant perennials? How's your soil? Does it need amendment? Tired of looking at bare branches all winter? This series of articles will address these issues, so cozy up to the fire with your dreams and a notebook and think about exactly what you'll do when spring finally arrives.
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Though a house has four sides, most of us want our front gardens to present a beautiful picture to the world driving by, so we'll start there. If you have photographs of your home taken at different times of the season, line them up from earliest to latest. Notice where the shadows lie in each snapshot. Where are the bright spots?
If your front door faces north, you'll see mostly shade throughout the season and, even in mid-summer, your home will cast a triangular shadow at the centermost point. A western exposure will have very little summer shade, except in early morning and early evening.
Now, assess the plantings that fall within the shady spots in your photographs. Are they shade-loving plants, or do they just happen to be planted there? Are they thriving, or doing poorly? One drawback to getting an early start on spring planting is that the sun is still low and we are fooled into thinking we have good light exposure in certain places when, in fact, by July, the area is drenched in brutal direct sunlight. Shade loving plants wilt and, by summer's end, have all but dried up. Additionally, shade plants usually require more water and are further stressed by the quick evaporation caused by long hours of heat. Many "full sun" plants can tolerate morning shade, and some will appreciate a respite from hot afternoon sun. Finding the perfect place for each plant is always a challenge, but doing so might save you the disappointment of a garden that doesn't thrive.
Looking again at your photos, determine what could be moved to a more suitable space, and what you might plant in its place. Sketch out your front garden, crosshatch the predominantly shady spots,  then start moving things around on paper. When I redesigned the west-facing front garden of my home, I stood at the curb and photographed the house straight on (first photo above). I then printed out the photo in black and white, and made all my notations in red marker. In this way, I was able to visualize how different heights and widths would look against the architectural lines of the house.
Other directional concerns include wind and moisture
Hot or cold, wind can damage fragile or sensitive plants such as rhododendrons, azalea, and laceleaf maples. Determine from which direction your predominant wind blows, then use hardy specimens at the house corners to protect the rest of the bed; Arbovitae (Thuja spp.) and Juniper (Juniperus spp.) are examples of wind tolerant shrubs.
Densely shaded beds will retain moisture longer, sometimes to a fault. If the soil remains soggy for too long, some plants can succumb to rot. Take care to choose specimens that will tolerate heavy moisture; ferns (Pteridophyta spp.), Hosta (Hosta spp.), and primrose (Primulaceae spp.) are good examples.
What about the western exposure garden?
Regardless of the shade you think you have in this location, unless you have a large tree nearby, the afternoon sun and its reflection off the house will test even the hardiest sun-loving varieties. Plant foundation shrubs that will provide shade to nearby plants; small trees such as Crabapple (Malus spp.), or medium height shrubs such as Spiraea (Spiraea spp.) or Burning bush (Euonymus alatus spp.) will add an interesting background. Be generous with mulch and water frequently. Plant specimens that are drought tolerant. In the most unprotected areas of the bed, use succulents and rock garden varieties such as Hen & Chicks (Sempervivum tectorum), Stonecrop (Sedum spp.), or yucca (Yucca spp.).
It's a good idea to assess each side of your home for suitability of plants to the soil, water, and light conditions. If you take the time to do this now, you'll be able to move things around and find a place for everything when you start redesigning your front garden. All photos ©Toni Leland '06
 | Toni Leland has been writing for over 20 years. She has written a biweekly gardening newspaper column as a spokesman for the Ohio State University Master Gardener program, and writes for Grit magazine and Romance Writers Report. She has been a gardener all her life, working soil all over the world. In her day job, she scripts and produces educational DVDs about caring for Miniature Horses, as well as writing and editing books about this unique height breed. |
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Subject: Shady place
Posted by Teddytoo (from Melbourne Beach, FL) on March 31, 2008 at 11:27 AM:I live in E. Central FL..There is a spot that is shady ALL the time..I have ferns, Impatience, and some ruella there, but none of them look very happy..The rest of my gardens are doing very well, so I do need some advise for this one ! ... Posted by tonileland (from Nashport, OH) on April 1, 2008 at 7:18 AM: Good morning!
You didn't describe what "not very happy" looks like, but I suspect that if ferns, impatiens, and ruella aren't flourishing in your full shade spot, either the soil doesn't drain well and the plants have wet feet all the time, OR the soil pH is wrong. I'm leaning more toward too much moisture.
I would suggest buying an inexpensive soil moisture meter (I have this one--http://www.treehelp.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=LL-1817 which I purchased at WalMart for about $14. This model also tests soil pH). If the water content of your shade garden is too high, you'll either need to remove the plants, amend the soil with drainage material, and replant OR remove the plants and build a raised bed, then replant.
Another problem with a shade garden is lack of air circulation and slow moisture evaporation from leaves. Impatiens especially need good ventilation to prevent mildew and rot. Thin the plants to about 6-8 inches apart.
I hope this helps. Let me know what you do and how it works out. Good Luck! ...
Subject: ground cover
Posted by lady4950 (from Parrottsville, TN) on March 10, 2008 at 9:03 AM:Hello! I was very interested in your article about "Thinking ahead 101: Following the Sun
About 3 years ago I planted periwinkle because I thought it would be good for a sunny area. I guess I was wrong because I don't get very many flowers and the color of the leaves are somewhat yellow. I would like to change my ground cover and was wondering if you have any suggestions that would love the sun all the time? I live in zone 6 and don't have any shade. ... Posted by tonileland (from Nashport, OH) on March 10, 2008 at 10:15 AM: Good morning!
Periwinkle will struggle along in sun, but never flower.
I suggest something like Creeping Jenny also known as Moneywort. It's prolific, loves the sun and comes in several vibrant shades of green; some varieties also bloom. I'm also in Zone 6, and I use the "pearl' variety on a sun-baked western slope. In fall it turns bronze, and doesn't really go dormant until a hard freeze. Here's the Plant File for this specimen. [HYPERLINK@davesgarden.com]
Another good sun-loving ground cover is Cranesbill or Wild Geranium. This one spreads quickly, almost too quickly, unless you have a large area to cover. Not a good candidate anywhere near your formal flower beds, but a great filler plant. Very pretty with dark green lacy leaves and bright pink or dark pink flowers. Blooms through until first hard frost. More info: [HYPERLINK@davesgarden.com]
Good luck!
Toni
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Subject: Great timing!
Posted by darius (from Appalachian Mtns, VA) on March 8, 2008 at 6:24 PM:Thanks... we have a place new to us, and no garden... just green stuff we mow. So now's a good time to contemplate. :) ...
Subject: Good advice
Posted by bigcityal (from Menasha, WI) on March 8, 2008 at 12:41 PM:Nice article about planning Toni. I have maps of all my beds and plans. ... Posted by carrielamont (from Milton, MA) on March 8, 2008 at 1:40 PM: Al does, but I don't - I think I should take some pictures before everything leafs out!
Thank you for your well-timed advice - I do want to mention that in Massachusetts, some "burning bush" species are considered noxious weeds - like the ones that are eating the foundation of my house. Did you really paint your trim that lovely color of purple? Thanks, Toni! xxx, Carrie ... Posted by tonileland (from Nashport, OH) on March 8, 2008 at 2:52 PM: Carrie, you are too funny!
The "lovely purple" trim is really oxidized brown! I am going to like it, I am going to like it, I am.....
Thanks to both of you for the nice comments.
Carrie how much snow do you have today? We are at about 9 inches and still falling! ... Posted by carrielamont (from Milton, MA) on March 8, 2008 at 7:35 PM: Wet wet wet - all rain. Some sheets, some buckets, some cats and dogs, some steady, some pouring, but no snow. I thought it was supposed to be spring this month?
That's brown? I like purple, not as much as I did in 6th grade when I got 6 new dresses for my new school and they were all different shades of purple, but i do like purple. But ever since Crayola renamed the colors I've been a little hazy on the names - was it a luscious periwinkle? An intense lavender? A pale lilac? Well, now that I know what "oxidized brown" looks like I'll know what to ask for, because I do like it!
Thanks again, Toni. ...
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