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We've all done it - filled a small empty spot in the garden with a darling little tree or shrub. Then one day, we notice that it's not so little and no longer darling. What was used as filler has now overgrown its appointed place in the landscape. Nurseries and garden centers use the phrase "right plant for the right place." This means not only considering water, light and soil, but thinking farther ahead than the immediate future.
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 In photo A, when this house was originally built, the owners planted a small rhododendron close by the corner of the house, next to the walkway. The shrub thrived for almost 80 years with very little pruning. Magnificent as it was, the roots eventually wo rked their way into the old clay sewer pipe, pressed against the brickwork, cracking the mortar, put pressure on gutters, and obliterated the view from one window.
In photo B, when a new deck was added to this home, a lovely Japanese maple made the perfect central focus of the adjacent flowerbed. Later on, a tiny Alberta spruce was added in a corner. The maple grew at a moderate rate, but the spruce grew quickly, and changed the balance of the flower bed dramatically. Additionally, the maple was planted too close to the deck and now the branches overhang the railing.
In photo C, this gorgeous Magnolia originally made a charming anchor at the corner of the home. Twenty years later, it encroaches the gutters, rubs against the siding, and the roots have pushed out several stones in the retaining wall. The tree was originally planted only 2 feet from the corner of the house. (See close-up)
When researching any plant material to use in your landscape, always check the mature size and growth rate. Keeping a tree or shrub pruned to fit available space is a never-ending chore, especially those species that quickly grow to great proportions. Think also about whether a shrub or tree will eventually over-shade the plants around it. For perennials, also consider spread. Daylilies and Cannas multiply every season, and can crowd out less aggressive plants in no time.
Shrubs and trees as foundation plantings around the house
A big mistake when planting a new foundation bed is to use too many small shrubs to "fill up" the open space. This desire for instant beautification will eventually produce a crowded, unstructured look to the area. Additionally, air circulation is hampered, causing mildew and excess shade on plants close by. Better to use a few spectacular specimens and be patient. Annuals or interesting ground cover can be interspersed between and around the shrubs to help alleviate the naked look. A list follows of some familiar varieties and their growth habits.
Some Familiar Short or Small Shrubs (4' tall or less at maturity)
English Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens "Suffruticosa"): 3', compact, slow growth
Barberry (Berberis spp.): 3', spread 2-3', slow growth
Euonymus "Emerald Gaiety": 2-4', spread 3-4', medium growth
Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster spp.): 2-3', spread 4-6', slow growth
Yew: 2-4', spreading habit 4-6', medium growth
Dwarf Forsythia: 2-3', spreading habit 5-6', medium growth
Juniper "Andorra compacta": 1-2', spread 4-5', medium growth
Potentilla: 2-3', spread 2-3', slow growth
Rhododendron: 2-4', spread 2-4', medium growth
Some Familiar Medium Height Shrubs (Up to 8' tall at maturity)
Abelia (Abelia x grandiflora): 3-4', 4-6', spread 3-5' medium growth
Aucuba Japonica (Aucuba japonica): 4-5', spread 3-4', medium growth
Wintergreen Barberry (Berberis julianae): 5-6', 3-5', slow growth
Japanese Fatsia (Fatsia japonica): 4-6', spread 4-6', fast growth
Border Forsythia (Forsythia intermedia): 6-8', spread 6-8', rapid growth
Althea Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus): 6-8', spread 4-6', medium growth
Spiraea (Spirea thunbergii): 3-5', spread 3-4', rapid growth
Burkwood Viburnum (Viburnum x burkwoodii): 6-8', spread 5-6', slow growth
Weigila (Weigela florida): 6-8', spread 6-8', slow growth
Avoid These Errors
Another frequent error is planting too close to the building; siding damage and moisture problems are common with this mistake. Shrubs that grow to 6 feet or more should be planted in such a way that the mature foliage will be at least five feet from the walls of the house. Allow a minimum of 3 feet between the house and smaller shrubs. Small, slow-growing ornamental trees can be planted as accents near a corner, but keep mature size in mind, especially for those with spreading root systems.
Watering foundation shrubs and plants can cause moisture and mildew problems inside the house if the plants are within 5 to 10 feet of the foundation. If possible, grade the ground next to the house so that water channels away. An alternate solution would be to plant drought resistant varieties that don't require frequent watering.
A garden or home landscape is always a work in progress, one that brings hours of enjoyment to those who live in it and those who view it. With a little forethought, you can keep your space under control and always beautiful.
 | Toni Leland has been writing for over 20 years. She has written a biweekly gardening newspaper column as a spokesman for the Ohio State University Master Gardener program, and writes for Grit magazine and Romance Writers Report. She has been a gardener all her life, working soil all over the world. In her day job, she scripts and produces educational DVDs about caring for Miniature Horses, as well as writing and editing books about this unique height breed. |
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Subject: Criticism and Preaching in the Desert
Posted by Noturf (from Marquesas Islands
(Polynesia (French))) on March 22, 2008 at 6:31 PM:All those issues presented in your article demonstrate serious observation and gardening practices. Unfortunately, that is what many people in the Green Industry do, they are interested in the fast buck, not education, since many have no credentials. Congratulations,
in Puerto Rico where I live currently, all you have mentioned as real problems (avoidable with some research) are everywhere.
More articles of this kind are necessary. I believe that two many people stay on the surface in a complacent attitude. Many things should
be changed as for example the infatuation with turf. A real waste of money, water, noise, air, soil and water pollution. ... Posted by tonileland (from Nashport, OH) on March 23, 2008 at 8:45 AM: Hello! Thanks for your comments. ...
Subject: Thanks!
Posted by Seandor (from Springfield, MA) on March 17, 2008 at 10:28 AM:I knew I did it correctly! It does look a little strange to plant little tiny shrubs so far away from the house, but what a lot of work I will be saved 15 years from now! ... Posted by LHicks (from Charlotte, NC) on March 17, 2008 at 1:08 PM: Good job Seandor! I wish the previous owner of our home had been as smart as you. She planted the shrubs smack against the house. Last year some bees made a nest in the shrubs beside the garage door and we had a time getting rid of them.
My desire is to remove the shrubs completely and do a planting area with bulbs and smaller shrubs that are not against the house. Can anyone give a suggestion on how to go about removing the shrubs or should I bite the bullet and hire a landscaper to do it?
Also the shrubs are now 6 years old, is it too late to re-plant them along the edge of the yard? ... Posted by tonileland (from Nashport, OH) on March 17, 2008 at 2:01 PM: LHicks: You don't say what kind of shrubs you wish to move/remove.
Six years old isn't the end of the world for transplanting, provided they are the right type of shrub.
If you can expand on this, I'll try to help. Been there, done that! LOL
Toni Leland ... Posted by LHicks (from Charlotte, NC) on March 17, 2008 at 3:11 PM: Thanks tonileland. I'm not sure what kind they are. Last year we had a late frost that killed the buds so I didn't really get to see what kind of flowers they have.
I didn't ask what kind they were when we bought the house because I was thinking at the time that I wanted to remove them so I could plant flower gardens in both places. I want to move them this year but I'm not sure I'll be able to. Do you have any idea how old is to old to try to replant them? ... Posted by CapeCodGardener (from Yarmouthport, MA) on March 17, 2008 at 6:54 PM: Toni, this was the most timely article! My daughter is just considering which foundation plantings she should put in around her new home. I will forward this article to her. Thank you.
... Posted by tonileland (from Nashport, OH) on March 17, 2008 at 9:20 PM: Hi All! Glad I could talk about something that fit with the times and problems.
LHicks: if you have a picture of the shrub or the leaves, I can tell you better.
A late frost in NC: what month? I'm wondering if your shrubs are azaleas, in which case, they could be transplanted if they're not too large; i.e., over 3 feet wide x 3 feet high. Still a project at that size, but certainly doable.
Wish I could be more help without additional info.
... Posted by LHicks (from Charlotte, NC) on March 17, 2008 at 11:28 PM: The frost was in April and the photos that I have were taken too far away to identify by photo. I don't have a digital camera yet and I just started the roll on the 35mm. As soon as I can get a decent picture, I'll post one for you to see.
Thanks for all your help. ... Posted by tonileland (from Nashport, OH) on March 18, 2008 at 6:23 AM: You're more than welcome. An alternative to waiting until you get a photo would be to clip off a small branch with leaves and take it to your local nursery. They should be able to identify it for you and advise you about transplanting.
Best of luck. Be sure to let me know of your progress. :o) ... Posted by LHicks (from Charlotte, NC) on March 18, 2008 at 2:10 PM: Thanks. That's a great idea! I'll do that this weekend. ...
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