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Simply put, cuttings from plants can be both rewarding & an economical way to expand your collection of the plants you desire.
I've had a few people ask me how to do cuttings to get more plants. I thought I'd share a few paragraphs here of what I've learned.
I'm no writer & definitely no expert at plants. I've gleaned much from many other gardeners and read a lot. My daddy's love of nature gave me a good start. His grandmother gave us a part of history in the "Trail of Tears" and his mother passed down that knowledge of wildfood and natural remedies to her children. In Arkansas my daddy used to go with his mother to gather these gifs from God and it is from these "roots" that I have come.
1-Most anything can be cut & get started as a new plant. In my practice when taking cuttings, I find more success in rooting if they're taken from hardwood. This means that the older stems have a tougher outer "bark" and sometimes even looks woody, like bark. These are the more "substantial" stems to use for rooting. I've found that most of the time a stem can be cut for several hours before using it. Keeping it moist helps insure the rooting process for later & you can do this by sticking the end into a moistened paper towel or even some water (gardening tip: always have some kinda plastic bag with dry paper towels in it). If I can't keep the stem moist, I try to take a long enough cutting so when I get ready for it, I can cut another length off it again to get back to a stem that hasn't dried out. Of course SOME plants need a drying-out period so they don't rot. Examples are tops of Pineapple & canes (Dracaena, Dumb Cane, etc.) Also, when taking a cutting, it's best if you keep it only a few inches tall 4-6" with the leaves (photosenthesis for keeping alive). Snip off the top if you must - too long of a stem makes a difficult adjustment to the shock of cutting & will usually die.
2-Once you've cut the stem (always at an angle) make sure it's just below a node (where leaves join the stem). Strip (pull off or pinch off) all the leaves on the stem that you plan on having in the soil for rooting. Don't pull downward on the stem, that could injure the stem. The nodes are where rooting will mainly occur although with some plants the rooting can occur anywhere on the stem. Some stems are warty, these are usually areas where rooting can occur.
3-Have your pots ready. They should be clean, small plastic pots (plastic doesn't dry out as quickly). Most plants don't like too much room for their roots to wander about. Give cuttings (1-4 stems of the same plant), a little bed of their own. I find that small starting pots don't need gravel in the bottom. Just buy good potting soil, dont' use "dirt" from the yard. I like buying 40# of Miracle Grow potting soil. Fill the pots then shake or thump them to settle the soil well. Poke holes into the soil either with your finger or a dibble stick, which is a finger-sized stick! haha
4-I generally use a rooting hormone, several kinds are out there but a brand name is "Rootone" that you can buy from Lowes or Home Depot (HD) in the garden center (the container is only an ounce or so, about the size of a larger baby-food type jar). After freshly cutting the stem, dip the end of it so the node gets a dusting of the hormone over it. The more nodes to get the hormone, the better! Tap the stem gently (you don't need but a light dusting) then put it deeply (even if the end of stem hits the bottom of the pot), into an open hole, in the soil. Press the soil firmly (not hard) around.
5-Water well after finishing your cutting(s). Don't worry that the soil has now settled to 2/3 or 3/4 of the pot. This gives plenty of room for spraying water into the pot, letting it soak-in good. Water well at least every other day (depends on the weather). They like moisture but not standing in it so make sure they drain well. Having those trays for plants is really nice, so the water doesn't pool around the pots. Watering from the bottom is the best, it will keep fungus from starting on top of the soil (dampening off kills young stalks). If soaking from the bottom, of course make sure there's complete drainage afterward.
6-Have your starting area in a mostly shady spot, near the ground. These starting plants are putting their roots out, not trying to really "grow". A very few hours of sun is ok but no more. Eastern sun is healthiest. I have my bed on the W side of my house, it's between houses so the only sun is straight overhead for about 2 hours. They must also stay warm. A chilly spot is a deadly spot.
7-Some people like to buy a low number liquid fertilizer for starting their plants. I think the first one pertains to roots so it would be like a 5-0-0. I'm not sure though. I also have read a vitamin has been known to work well in helping plants make roots (something like B16?). There again, I don't recall exactly.
Sometimes when I trim plants back, I've been known to stick those stems right back into the ground around the base of it. Many times I've happily found little plants that's adjusted well & lived from those cuttings! So not always, does there need to be such care taken. But if I'm wanting to be more sure of success, the above steps are generally what I've found to work well.
I hope this has helped someone if they've had questions about getting starts from cuttings.
About Belle Suenell
Usually with a story behind it, I like to use a botanical nickname with my favorites of Cambium, Lobelia, or Vitex. I'll always be a country girl at heart & no matter where I may be, I thankfully respect the awesome wonders of nature that God has blessed us with.
Posted by Kare79 (from Sherburne, NY) on July 3, 2007 at 1:02 PM:
There is a tree Ive seen and Im not sure what it is.So far the only times Ive seen it,it has been very small and I dont know if it stays that way or not.It has white bark like a birch.The leaves are very small,almost paper thin and to me they look kind of gold colored.I have seen this tree before but I dont know where and in what season! If anyone knows what it is and maybe has a picture Id appreciate it.
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Subject: You may be breaching patent restrictions
Posted by whirlybird (from Portland, ME) on May 19, 2007 at 7:39 PM:
You better thankfully respect the awesome wonders of intellectual property law too, or you might find yourself nose to nose with Monsanto's lawyers, who think they are God. Anything that says "plant patent" and has a number behind it will usually say "Propagation prohibited" which means saving seeds or taking cuttings.
It is not wise to advise others to do things that might be breaking the law without some kind of disclaimer, like "always check nursery tags".
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Posted by woodster (from annapolis royal
(Canada)) on July 6, 2007 at 9:04 AM:
how can they be sure that the cutting came from one of their patent protected plants ? and do they waste time on individual gardners or just go after big garden centers ?
woodster
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Posted by sugarweed (from Jacksonville, FL) on August 9, 2007 at 2:12 AM:
Yes I have wondered who employs these plant police?
;)
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Posted by mikapixie (from Folkston, GA) on April 28, 2008 at 5:08 PM:
It is technically illegal to propagate patented plants, but you won't usually have any problems unless you distribute these patented clones. Beware though!
I just don't buy patented plants and save myself the headache.
Oh no, got to go the plant police are at the door...
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Posted by just_racey (from Brunswick, GA) on May 26, 2008 at 8:40 AM:
The propogation prohibited tags on patented plants aremeant to stop people from "copying" the plant for distribution to others (especially FOR PROFIT!). The home gardener that divides a clump to put in another area of their home garden/landscape isn't going to have the USDA or the patent owners breathing down their necks. Plant patent are a bit like drug patents too. After awhile there are "generic" equivalents (7-10 years) because most plant are pollinated buy insects or birds it becomes pretty darn hard to tell the birds and bees not to transfer pollen from the patened plant to it's kissing cousin that doesn't have a legal corset on it. After a few generations the genetic patent kind of gets lost out in the general public.
Agri-science & Horticulture teacher
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Posted by sugarweed (from Jacksonville, FL) on May 27, 2008 at 9:02 AM:
I for one really appreciate this information. I do say 500 coleus and other fast rooters for a riot of color.
The ones still new I only multiply for mostly my own enjoyment.
(whether I enjoy them here or in another of my favorite places.)
Sidney
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Posted by wendyelsey (from Portland, OR) on June 20, 2008 at 4:40 PM:
Thank you for your info on starting from cuttings. I too appreciate the information... and will not even think twice about the "plant police".. I dont do it for anything other than to add more to my beautiful yard! I always ask say.. an owner of the property if I see a spectacular plant that I must have if I may take a cutting off. They are usually flattered that you like their landscape, plants, etc and have no problem letting me cut 3 or 4 small cuttings. If they dont like the idea, you can always get the name of the plant and purchase it from a nursery.
To me, if someone owns a plant, you can do what you want with it. Make as many extras as you want! You paid for it! I think it is better to keep them for your own yard.
I have a lot of beautiful plants that have "over grown" themselves, specifically several of my vines (some are very rare or hard to find :) so taking cuttings is the only way to go if you would like that plant in more than one are of your yard. I like to also do cuttings to trade with people here on Dave's Graden :) I too use 'rootone' and it works wonders. I find that if you do a combo of perlite and potting soil 50/50, it keeps the moisture better and promotes faster rooting. I sometimes add a VERY small amount of root stimulator to the water, very small. I then to top it off add a small amount of soil building compost, or a thin mulch to keep the moisture in, assuring appropriate drainage out of the bottom of the pot (adding additional holes). I have not had one cutting not make it. Your info was very re-assuring that I am doing it correctly :) I also am no plant expert, but this way works very well for me.... and I wont just go around town cutting plants or getting arrested for plant theft.. hehehehe
and OK, I have to say it!
I also do not like when people go out and 'dig up' say plants or take cuttings out of the forest, or botanical gardens. I think to appreciate the plants is great, but if they are in an area that is a preserved or protected place, state forests, etc, PLEASE let them be. Find out info on the plant and buy it at a respected nursery. I have seen and heard stories about people taking cuttings from a beautiful botanical garden here in Portland and it is very wrong. A lot of times people do not know how to correctly start plants from cuttings so they cut off half a plant and the entire section they cut for themselves dies anyways. I have worked at a nursery for 3 years and I always get people telling me about how the 'took' from misc places. I instead tell them to take a leaf, or a flower and bring it in for ID, and then find them the plant. I dont know about carrying a couple baggies with paper towels as that would make it easier for people to take from something or someone that you do not have permission to do so.
I think it is best.. get permission to take, or don't take at all :)
Happy Gardening!
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Subject: Stem Cuttings from Cambium
Posted by nanabest1 (from Clarkston, MI) on May 7, 2007 at 5:31 AM:
Thank you Belle, you are really helpful. I have an angel wing geranium that is growing very tall and would like to make more plants of this beautiful specimen. I will try your system and let you know how I fare.
Happy blossoms . . .
[e-mail:nanabest1@comcast.net]
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Posted by TheGardenersBro (from East Kilbride
(United Kingdom)) on July 13, 2007 at 5:06 PM:
Hi Belle!
There is more commonsense and distilled knowledge in your "Cutting Edge" than in many 'expert' works.
Does the 'Trail of Tears' refer to early settlers?
God bless.
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Subject: What a beautiful plant
Posted by flowerprincess (from Ogden, UT) on May 3, 2007 at 8:35 AM:
Thanks for the info on plant starts. I have been curious how to do this. My mom takes cuttings and roots them in water, but I have never had any luck with this, I'll have to give it a try.
What an amazing picture, what kind of plant is it?
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Posted by nonny1 (from Benton, AR) on June 14, 2007 at 9:27 AM:
It is a bleeding heart vine.
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Posted by flowerprincess (from Ogden, UT) on June 18, 2007 at 5:59 PM:
Hmm, a bleeding heart? My bleeding heart doesn't look anything like the picture. It must be a different variety. I'll have to look into it.
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Posted by nonny1 (from Benton, AR) on June 21, 2007 at 10:38 AM:
there is a perennial bleeding heart (bush like,upright) and there is this trailing vine called bleeding heart vine
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Posted by debnes_dfw_tx (from Fort Worth, TX) on June 24, 2007 at 10:44 AM:
This particular cultivar is Clerodendrum thomsoniae; "Glory Bower"
.. I have adored since I first laid eyes on it. I bought one and brought it home, then planted it in the wrong place, and it died.:-(. A few weeks ago I went to visit a friend from DG here in Fort Worth, Sheila_FW. She let me take a cutting and it is making roots. This is a wonderful vine, not just another bleeding heart plant, a clerodendrum, not the more common Dicentra. DG has 36 results for "bleeding heart". Check them all out, There are more than one Clerodendrum thomsoniae, all are so very lovely!
[HYPERLINK@davesgarden.com]
Thank you Suenell! I hope your artical inspires people who read it to root more of their favorite plants. I agree these are wonderful gifts from God, and should be shared liberally and freely among friends. Especially the more rare native plants not found at local commercial nurseries!
Your article was a joy to read!
:-Deb
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Posted by flowerprincess (from Ogden, UT) on June 28, 2007 at 12:18 AM:
Thanks I have never heard of the vine...
It's beautiful.
When you start cuttings, do you use root hormone? Or just place them in a good potting soil. I am trying my first cuttings...
So far so good but I didn't use any root hormone?
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Posted by debnes_dfw_tx (from Fort Worth, TX) on July 3, 2007 at 10:14 AM:
Suenell seems to recommend both good soil and rooting hormone. Some plants will root without hormone, and some need extra help. If they look good they might be taking root for you already. At this point I wouldn't disturb them. If they don't take, you might use the hormone next time.
Good luck!
Deb
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Posted by flowerprincess (from Ogden, UT) on July 3, 2007 at 11:46 AM:
Thanks :)
This is my second try, last time the cuttings got all moldy. Weird
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Posted by jazzzy704 (from Fenton, MI) on October 23, 2007 at 10:19 AM:
Flower the reason some cuttings get moldy are : 1) no air circulation, a little fan in the room wirh the cuttings helps alot, 2) use only potting mix, it has no soil..less or no soil born bacteria!! Also her artical recommended Nitrogen for stem cuttings..NO! NO!NO!
Don't use any fertilizer on cuttings as they have no roots to uptake the food into the plant, also you want to keep the leaf structure small on a cutting to prevent loss of moisture, also so the plant will not have to support leaves with no roots!!
Leaves that are cut in half or very small leaves are the best atop a cutting.When you put the cutting into soiless mix use a pencil to make the planting hole as not to bend the fragile cutting and then pinch the soil in around the stem. When moistening the soiless mix make it only wet enough to moisten it well. Do not soak it!! Any filled container should not DRIP with water coming from the soil. This will make the soil lose all its oxygen so the plant can not survive in that soggy soil!! it is not hard to take cuttings but knowing the process makes it easier. i never use root hormone. I put each cutting into a container 4" pot and put 8 in a flat with a
high grow dome over the whole lot or put individual ones in a zip lock bag!!
I mist the cuttings and all before I place the closed baggie or dome over them and under florescent lights. I bring in lots of plant to over winter this way for years.
I also know it is not easy to root most HARDWOOD cuttings as she has described.
Most will NOT root this way!!
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Posted by ROSES_R_RED (from Mount Bethel, PA) on January 24, 2008 at 7:24 PM:
I find the softwood cutting easiest to root. This is usually when the new growth is slowing down and the cutting can bend without flopping or breaking. There are other intermediate stages for these hardwood plants. The last stage is the hardwood cutting very late in the summer. I have had no luck rooting these.
Now I find that most of the propagation websites are recommending the softwood cuttings of the woody plants as the easiest to have success with.
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Posted by flowerprincess (from Ogden, UT) on January 27, 2008 at 1:42 PM:
I don't believe I can grow a bleeding heart -clerodendrumthis vine in our climate (zone 5) but I was wondering if I could grow it in a container as an annual? I love it, it's lovely and something rare I've never seen before.
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Posted by debnes_dfw_tx (from Fort Worth, TX) on January 27, 2008 at 2:08 PM:
Hi flower!
There are lots of other bleeding hearts you can grow in you zone for sure.. They are of the genus Dicentra
[HYPERLINK@davesgarden.com]
It doesn't have to be a Clerodendrum to be a bleeding heart. :-)
