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The genus Alocasia is one place to look if you are in search of the ultimate lush tropical garden. Unfortunately, so many of the most desirable species are also too tender to grow for very long in temperate gardens. With that in mind, I began hybridizing Alocasias with the objective of producing hardier, easier to grow tropical specimens for all gardeners. This hybrid is one of the newest I've developed.
'Ear Ye, 'Ear Ye!
If you love the look of the tropics, the large-leaved plants known as "Elephant Ears" are a must for your garden. What could call to mind the warm tropical breezes and lazy endless summerlike days more than the lush leaves of plants like Xanthosoma, Colocasia, and Alocasia? Growing plants like these in a northern or temperate summer garden is sure to lead to zone envy, especially when you see how large they can grow in their native climate!
I have longed for the tropics ever since my teenage years and aroids have been prominent in that longing. My fascination with these plants has led me to develop newer, hardier, and more interesting varieties of Alocasia. Alocasia 'Imperial Giant' is one of my newest, and is also one of my most enigmatic due to one of the parents I used to produce it. There's no mystery about the other parent. Alocasia macrorrhizos 'Borneo Giant' (below, left), is popular amongst those tropical gardeners who wish the largest possible Elephant Ear for their gardens. This plant has almost everything going for it, except that it is, well, green, all green, and no other colors. So when the opportunity to cross it with pollen from a very interesting plant whose only name I could find was 'VangiGo', I jumped at the chance.
Mystery Alocasia
You see, Alocasia 'VangiGo' is either an undescribed species, or is a hybrid of unknown parentage. All the sleuthing I have done has shown me only that the plant was named after an Aglaonema hybridizer, a Ms. VangiGo, and that the plant came from the Philippines originally. The story is that a plant was obtained, placed in tissue culture, a hundred or so produced, and these then distributed at one of the annual sales of the International Aroid Society years ago. Nearly all of those plants ultimately perished, including those retained by the nursery which first obtained this plant. I was fortunate enough to learn about a person who had a blooming size specimen, and this individual was gracious enough to allow me access to pollen for my work. Regrettably, since then this plant has also perished, but not before I was able to use the pollen in not one, nor two, but three successful hybridizations. The delicate nature of many of these most desirable Alocasia plants is the main reason I work to blend them genetically with hardier stock. I must recount, however, what this extraordinary Alocasia looked like because then you will know why I was so excited to be able to obtain pollen from it.
Alocasia 'Sarian' on steroids?
When I first laid eyes on the VangiGo, I was stunned. I had seen Alocasia 'Sarian', a plant with heavy textured leaves and bold white veins (below, left). This plant looked like 'Sarian' on steroids because in every way the VangiGo was larger, heavier, and thicker. The newly emerged leaves had bold creamy white veins and the leaf texture was almost like cardboard, with very prominent smaller veins on the underside of the leaves. With age, the vein color faded to a light green. VangiGo petioles were mottled with a brownish coloration, holding the phenomenal leaf blades that were easily 5 feet or more in length (picture at right). But what was most exciting to me was the abundance of pollen on the inflorescences. I began imagining what kind of progeny I could obtain by crossing this plant with the Borneo Giant. Alocasia 'Imperial Giant' is one of the results of that hybridization.
This baby will be big!
Alocasia 'Imperial Giant' appears to have retained the best of both of its parents. It has heavy textured leaves, mottled petioles, produces abundant offsets, and most importantly, promises to grow to quite a large size at maturity (see young plant pictured below, right). So far my specimens are not yet mature enough to bloom, yet they have already attained impressive dimensions. The one thing they do lack is the creamy white veins on the newly emerged leaves. This winter I have discovered that they are somewhat sensitive to colder temperatures when young, although the more mature specimens seem to have a greater resistance to chilling injury. So I am not finished with this one, as I plan to bring in additional hardiness by crossing it with Alocasia odora. I know I can do this because I have already produced hybrids between the VangiGo and Alocasia odora. Alocasia 'Borneo Giant' and Alocasia 'VangiGo' have inflorescences with very similar morphology, which hints to me that their hybrids stand a decent chance of being fertile.
The Alocasia Juggernaut
Alocasia 'Borneo Giant' is not the largest plant I have had the opportunity to work with. A plant that is practically a legend among aroid enthusiasts is Alocasia robusta. This is a plant whose difficulty in growing is rivaled only by the lust with which gardeners are driven to try growing it. I've felt that pain as I've tried and lost my share of these plants. However, I've done something about it. As spectacular as Alocasia 'Imperial Giant' is, it is just the beginning because something much bigger is on the horizon. Watch for it!
LariAnn has been gardening and working with plants since her teenage years growing up in Maryland. Her intense interest in plants led her to college at the University of Florida, where she obtained her Bachelor's degree in Botany and Master of Agriculture in Plant Physiology. In the late 1970s she began hybridizing Alocasias, and that work has expanded to Philodendrons, Anthuriums, and Caladiums as well. She lives in south Florida with her partner and son and is research director at Aroidia Research, her privately funded organization devoted to the study and breeding of new, hardier, and more interesting aroid plants.
Posted by Estradero (from Pembroke Pines, FL) on May 11, 2009 at 08:25 AM:
Dear LariAnn: Probably, you may not remember me, but I purchased 2 7- feet tall Rainbows from you about 3-4 years ago. You guys kindly delivered them to me in Pembroke Falls (I had to have delivery while my wife was away, as I had been ordered not to buy them - she is a convert, now), and kindly added some gorgeous, hearty Heliconia (thriving to the point of near absurdity!)
The Rainbows are now about 35 -40 feet in altitude. Trunk diameters are approximately 7 inches. They are, not surprisingly, beautiful.I was away, and the irrigation system broke - no water for about 2.5 weeks. The lower branches have lost all leaves, and the upper canopy is sporadic - many leaves, but enough in the process of dying to be concerned.
The irrigation system is being repaired today, May 11, and will be ready for use.
I have been using soaker hoses since Friday, from 4 to 8 hours daily. I have laid the hose in concentric "rings", about 2 feet apart, starting fairly close (1 foot) of the trunk.
Some questions: The typical exposed top roots have been covered over by about 2-3 inches of soil/sand mixture; this was done 2 months ago when a new lawn was seeded ("Canada Green").
Covering the roots seems uneventful.
I am concerned about the extensive leaf loss. Is it reasonable to expect recovery?
What is the best way to treat these stressed trees (the one planted in the 4x4x4 vault lakeside is in much better shape)?
What fertilizer is best to use, and frequency of application?
Is/are other chemical treatment(s) that should be performed?
Since planting, the colors have been brown and a pale green - no other colors. I believe these colors can change with time, but is there chemical application that can hasten changes to other colors, such as occurs with hortensia when aluminum sulphate is added.
In addition to occasional fertilization, I have been using (twice annually) a growth hormone.
Any answers you can provide will be appreciated. Should there be a charge for the consultation, please let me know, and I will send the check. Should there be n charge, then I would like to send a small check to the Arioid development of which I have read (the 2 I purchased are spectacular!). To whom do I make the check, and where do I send it?
Also, I am interested in purchasing a few more (and different) giant aroids. We live near Sheridan Street, and the noise is quite bothersome; it will increase as the street is about to be widened. I believe some more aroids, planted in an overlapping stagger, will help reduce the bothersome traffic noise. Hence, I will appreciate it if you would send me some suggestions and delivered prices (I do not expect them to be hand delivered, as so kindly before).
I hope all is well with you and yours - is your son of college age yet? Does he want to follow into agronomy?
Have read a few things by/about you from time to time - keep up the good work.
Posted by LariAnn (from Miami, FL) on May 11, 2009 at 03:22 PM:
Hi Dick,
Of course I remember you, and I'm delighted to hear from you and to hear about how the plants are doing.
I'll begin by addressing your concerns reference the Rainbows. This time of year, they do seem to lose more leaves than usual, and it is likely due to the fact that this is the dry season. Our large Rainbows have lost leaves but so long as there are new and green leaves still on the tree, you don't have a problem. I suggest that you make the effort to stretch out a hose and soak the Rainbow that is furthest from the lake, making sure the water soaks in and doesn't run off. This should be done every other day if you can. Sprinkler systems work fine for grass but will not water deeply enough for a Rainbow.
The lack of many colors on the trunk is another symptom of the tree not receiving enough water. Our big Rainbows are growing in a situation where the roots have access to groundwater year round, and so we have good colors year round as well even without supplemental watering. Ample water is the only chemical I know of that will enhance coloration on Rainbows. Other than that, we have found that they don't need any other chemical treatments.
As for fertilizer, I recommend refraining from fertilizing these trees as they are very good at extracting nutrients from existing soil. If you fertilize, you run the risk of burning the feeder roots because the trees generally do not need extra fertilizer unless your soil is very poor. I do suggest the use of chelated iron if the new leaves come out yellowish or pale. When I mix up what I call 'Rainbow Joy Juice', I add 1 tsp Geigy 138 (red chelated iron), 1/4 tsp Geigy chelated manganese and a dash (1/2 tsp) of soluble fertilizer (much lower than label rate) per 1 gallon water, but I would use it only once per year or if a deficiency becomes evident.
As for large aroids, I do have a few that would work well for you. Are you considering a visit to pick out some? Reason I ask is that it helps to see the plants to be sure that they will meet your needs, and also because the larger ones might be too large to ship economically. I have a number of sizes and if you have a time frame within which you'd like to obtain the plants, we could agree on an arrangement, In this way I would custom grow for you the sizes and quantity of plants for your needs if existing stock is not adequate to do the job for you.
Thanks for asking about my son; he is still in high school studies, finishing up the 10th grade. Seems like just yesterday he was in diapers; incredible!
I don't charge for consultations unless I come by in person, but if you wish to send a check to support the Aroidia Research effort, you can leave the "pay to" blank and send it to me at 429 S.W. 3rd Avenue, Florida City, FL 33034.
Kind regards,
LariAnn
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Subject: MY giant alocasia seems to be dying
Posted by JGDCD (from Fort Lauderdale, FL) on February 01, 2009 at 11:54 AM:
I bought a giant alocasia back in August and it started to grow pretty well. All of a sudden when the leaves die they are not producing more. I am down to 1 leaf now. Could it be because it has been irregulary chilly here in Fort Lauderdale this year? Any suggestions on how to get it growing again? I would really appreciate your help.
- Jennifer
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Subject: An Alocasia for Me?
Posted by blhickson (from Savannah, GA) on April 01, 2008 at 08:59 PM:
I have what I think is a great location for a specimen Alocasia in an all shaded corner of a SW bed. It will be planted in back of a grey boulder and hopefully grow to "bend over" the boulder which is about 2 ft tall. I love the Alo's that have black or deep red stems, but after reading your articles, don't want to buy one from just a big box store OR a specialty shop (the salesfolks don't seem to know much about the growth size/needs of their plants). The specimen will be in front of a white background (a little garden house) and underneath a very large sasanqua that is tree form (about 15 ft. tall). What would you suggest? The largest growth should not be more than about 5 ft tall and the spread can be up to about 6 ft. wide. I have some red/green caladiums that I'd like to plant in front of the boulder. thanks for your help.
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Subject: Order
Posted by carter1250 (from Grand Rapids, MI) on February 04, 2008 at 06:42 PM:
How can i order for zone 5/ I want all these elephants ears
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Posted by froto123 (from Detroit, MI) on January 28, 2009 at 12:23 PM:
Ibought these at the Eastern market in Detroit in June of 08
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Posted by froto123 (from Detroit, MI) on January 28, 2009 at 12:26 PM:
Picture, They are about five to six feet tall, leaves range in size approx. 28" wide and 36" tall. I took them to work to over winter them indoors.
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Subject: Aroids in south Texas?
Posted by cedarcrone (from Rockport, TX) on February 04, 2008 at 04:44 AM:
LariAnn: Can you suggest an elephant ear/like hybrid that will do well on the Gulf Coast of Texas, near Corpus Christi? (zone 9a) I am fairly new to this area and to Daves Garden but I like the tropicals. I have killed my share of elephant ears in the past.....Thanks
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Posted by LariAnn (from Miami, FL) on February 04, 2008 at 09:14 AM:
The Alocasia odora should do well there, as well as Xanthosoma. In the event of a frost, the leaves may be burned, but they will come back. Primary consideration is making sure they get plenty of water.
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Subject: Grand alo's
Posted by jhennessey (from Damascus, MD) on January 31, 2008 at 12:28 PM:
They are really grand! I really enjoy Alo's. However, in my zone (6b) I have to haul them in each winter. Generally after 2 or 3 years they get too big to move and then it is start over again.
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Subject: Oh my!!
Posted by Dea (from Frederick, MD) on January 30, 2008 at 09:20 AM:
Absolutely fantastic - stunning - jaw dropping! We love EE's and these are just gorgeous !
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Posted by joycet (from Franklin, OH) on January 30, 2008 at 10:26 AM:
WOW! LariAnn....you da woman!!!! =o)
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Posted by katiebear (from mulege, Mexico) on January 30, 2008 at 01:58 PM:
Incredible plaants and fascinating reading. Your passion for your work shows.
This plant has almost everything going for it, except that it is, well, green, all green, and no other colors. So when the opportunity to cross it with pollen from a very interesting plant whose only name I could find was 'VangiGo', I jumped at the chance.
