|
|
Well let us consider the ancient art form of espalier. What is espalier? It is any tree or shrub pruned and formed (trained) against a wall. Espalier differs from topiary in that in espalier it forms the skeleton of the tree, while topiary forms the silhouette by pruning alone.
|
|
This technique originated in France and England in the 16th century, out of the practical need for growing fruit in such marginal climates as northern France and southern England. Traditionally it is used primarily on dwarf apple and/or pear trees, but other types of plants can be trained in this manner.
The Six Basic Espalier Styles are: Cordon: Most traditional form of espalier. Grows horizontally for a distance, lending itself well as a garden-bed divider. Can be a single cordon, also known as "rope," or a multicordon, generally with three tiers of branches. The multicordon takes two to three years to reach definition. May take longer on the East Coast because of shorter growing seasons.
Palmetto Verrier: Vertical branching adds nice definition between trees planted against a wall or fence. Horizontally trained branches are gradually trained into upright positions. Design can take up to three years to reach definition.
Fan: Suitable for areas requiring vertical coverage; will best cover a square space. Style defines quickly; can have clear definition within one year. Branches angled at 45° can be raised or lowered for greatest fruit yield.
Informal: Tree is allowed to take on a more natural shape; requires simple pruning to keep on a two-dimensional plane. Somewhat easier to train-simply balance the tree's aesthetic symmetry as the branches begin to grow.
Belgian fence: Lattice effect offers one of the most formal looking styles. Requires three trees or more to create overlapping Vs and two modified Vs to create finished ends. Within one year, the beginning design of overlapping Vs is well outlined.
Candelabra: Also known as "Brooklyn Botanical." Several vertical branches stem off one horizontal base. Fairly easy to train and maintain.
BENEFITS OF ESPALIER.
First of all, espaliers save space. An espaliered fruit tree provides loads of fruit in a fraction of the volume of a natural tree. Second, an espaliered tree bears earlier than a natural tree, bears much more heavily (in spite of the reduced number of branches), and bears for a longer time. A well-trained espalier often remains fruitful for over a hundred years. An espaliered tree is pruned and trained so that all of its energies are concentrated in the production of fruit-bearing wood. Once the skeleton or 'chassis' of the tree is established, all the gardener's efforts focus on the development of vital, healthy fruiting wood.  Third, an espaliered fruit tree is naturally healthier than a natural tree. Increased air circulation throughout the tree in available by using this technique. Secondly, the frequent attentions of the gardener required to maintain the espalier mean that he or she spots problems early on and applies appropriate interventions more promptly, thus needing less spraying. An espaliered fruit tree is much easier and faster to harvest. Likewise, any necessary treatments can be applied more quickly and easily, and with a lesser volume of spray than on a natural tree. Finally, the interesting part, from an aesthetic point of view. An espaliered fruit tree becomes a piece of landscape sculpture. It is beautiful in all seasons of the year. The art of espalier also allows you to solve vexing landscape problems in interesting ways. For instance, no prettier enhancement to bare house wall exists than to train an espaliered fruit tree against it. If that wall has windows, you can choose a form that artfully frames them. And best of all, horizontal space is not an issue, as the espalier will cling flat against the wall. At the same time, an espalier will not harm the wall of your house as will many climbing plants with holdfasts. Some growers simply enjoy the aesthetic value of espaliered trees, with their traditional symmetrical branch forms resembling fans and candelabras. These forms are created by snipping off unwanted branches and training others to move down toward the desired position. These unique forms make exquisite garden focal points: during winter, the branching patterns are revealed; during the spring, apple blossoms in varying shades of white and pink decorate the tree; during the summer, there is a two- or three-week stage of dramatic showy blossoms. Also, because you can train them to grow against almost any supportive structure, they are wonderful "cover-ups" for unattractive walls, fencing, or compost bins.
Espaliered fruit trees can also be used as elegant screens and fences. Free-standing forms make incredibly beautiful vertical accents in any garden--living sculptures that provide not only a feast for the eyes, but for the tongue and tummy as well. Along with pear trees, apple trees are the traditional espalier subject because their spurs live for years producing fruit. Espalier apple trees bear fruit at a young age and are versatile in nature, with their supple, easily trained new growth. However, you'll need to practice delayed gratification because most of these trees take approximately three years to mature and reach the desired design. For some growers, this is too large a drawback. But if you don't mind the wait, your patience and creativity will pay off in the long run, with bushels of yummy fruit and a very attractive unusual focal point in your landscape design.
THE TRADE-OFF: Most espaliered trees need approximately three years to attain the desired design and reach maturity. If you can stand the wait, you'll be rewarded with beautifully structured trees and bushels worth of fresh apples, pears and other fruits.
However, if you don't want to wait for your espalier tree to become mature enough for you to harvest fruit or you want the artistic design of the branches now, there is a solution. You can purchase or mail-order espalier trees that have been trained and already have their basic shape. Depending on what the espalier nursery has in stock, almost any apple variety can be shipped during the dormant, bare-root season. There are many extremely good step by step directions on how to learn this old technique available both on the web and at your local library. It is my understanding some areas there are classes given at some nurseries.
SUGGESTIONS FOR TYPES OF PLANTS THAT MAKE LOVELY ESPALIER SPECIMENS:
Vines
Ivy
Fruit
Apples
Cherry
Cornelian cherry
Crab apple
Pear
Peach
Persimmon
Plum
Pomegranate
Quince
Ornamentals
Forsythia
Roses (rambler or climbers)
Viburnums
Witch hazel
Evergreen shrubs and trees
Gingko
Japanese maple (any thing you might use for bonsai would be fine for espalier)
Juniper
Yew
While this is an certainly a high maintenance technique initially, it is certainly worth the effort if you want heavy bearing fruit trees in a small area that last for many years.
CREDITS: Roses from public domain, the rock fig from palmbob and the fig from andycdn, both members of DG. Thanks for sharing your photos with us all!
 | Hubby and I have been doing Organic Gardening off and on for over 25 years. Just finishing the Virginia Master Gardening classes at the end of Nov 07. I love talking and teaching gardening to anybody that will listen. |
|
|
Subject: Good Book on Espalier
Posted by geoz (from Forestville, CA) on February 18, 2008 at 1:35 PM:The American Horticultural Society Pruning and Training book by Christopher Brickell and David Joyce has a very good chapter on Espalier training of fruit trees. It is well illustrated and explain the formative years and pruning of established espaliers. I highly recommend this book. New, the book costs somewhwer between 40 and 50 dollars.
George
... Posted by doccat5 (from Fredericksburg, VA) on February 18, 2008 at 1:37 PM: Thanks for the information, geoz. ...
Subject: How do you do this? :)
Posted by tucsonjill (from Tucson, AZ) on February 16, 2008 at 2:45 PM:Doccat, every time I start thinking of a new project, the next week you have an article on it! I have a bare wall right outside my kitchen window that's looking for something to be planted on it, I want an apple tree, and now I have a plan! :)
Are there any nurseries you can recommend for apple trees that are already started on their path to espalier-ing? Or any sources that you can particularly recommend for how to start training one? I'm a little intimidated by the process of getting started with this, but don't think I'd have any trouble with keeping one going.
Also, what happens when the tree gets taller than the wall you're espaliering against? Do you just keep it to a pleasing form?
Thanks so much for yet another great article! ... Posted by doccat5 (from Fredericksburg, VA) on February 16, 2008 at 2:51 PM: Wow, I'm blushing.......thank you for the lovely compliment, I'll be smiling all day over that. :)
Go with a dwarf variety of tree for starters. You want a what is called whip. I'll go over my research and see if I can find you some of those nursery sites.
You need to make sure you have a sturdy structure to support the tree as it grows and you prune. Any mistakes are fixable, so not to worry.
Let me find those sites and my notes and I'll d mail you.
... Posted by doccat5 (from Fredericksburg, VA) on February 16, 2008 at 3:02 PM: Would you d-mail me your e-mail addy, please. I have quite a list and googled for AZ nursery sites. There are several, haven't check the Watchdog on the nurseries, but that's something you can do. :) ... Posted by tucsonjill (from Tucson, AZ) on February 16, 2008 at 3:07 PM: Oh, wow, doccat! Thanks so much! Dmail is on its way! ... Posted by tetleytuna (from Columbia, MO) on February 16, 2008 at 6:23 PM: Can anyone recommend good books on this subject? That would be the best way for me. Doccat you are going to get me into so much trouble as I feel another obsession coming on......... :^) ... Posted by doccat5 (from Fredericksburg, VA) on February 16, 2008 at 6:37 PM: Go to your local library and ask for books on doing espalier. That will get you started. I take NO responsibility for obsessions, I do however try to be a good enabler........LOL You can also google for info. The amount of data available on this is amazing. ...
Subject: Thanks, Catherine!
Posted by McGlory (from Southeast, NE) on February 16, 2008 at 11:43 AM:I may try this sometime soon, not because of space limitations, but just for the beauty. Is there no problems with roots when planting close to a foundation? I'm asking because I know Handsome Man will ask. ;-)
| Quoted: | | For instance, no prettier enhancement to bare house wall exists than to train an espaliered fruit tree against it. |
Interesting subject matter, well-written article. Thank you!... Posted by doccat5 (from Fredericksburg, VA) on February 16, 2008 at 11:49 AM: Nope, fruit trees and many of the flowers do not throw deep nor invasive root systems. The French and English have been doing it for centuries. Google espalier, there are many examples of different styles and ideas on what you could do with these elegant creations. ... Posted by victorgardener (from Lower Hudson Valley, NY) on February 16, 2008 at 6:29 PM: Cool article, Cath. I'd like to do it along a chain link fence. An advantage of that is air circulation. ...
Subject: Question
Posted by cathy4 (from St. Louis County, MO) on February 16, 2008 at 11:40 AM:Great article! Are the branches of a tree hooked to the wall in any way? I have a perfect spot but don't want to put holes in the wall. ... Posted by doccat5 (from Fredericksburg, VA) on February 16, 2008 at 11:47 AM: Make the espalier: Using 8- to 10-foot-tall posts (such as 4-by-4s or 4-by-6s), bury them 2 to 3 feet deep in the soil, spaced no more than 10 feet apart. For a maintenance-free espalier, use aircraft cable to support the tree's branches. Space the cable or wire 12 inches apart horizontally starting 12 inches above the ground, with a wire vise at each end to hold the cable tight.
I check my research, and this is what is recommended for first starting the whips. Once the tree gets some size the boards and wires can be removed.
Aren't they so elegant looking?
I'm seriously considering doing a hedgerow type form with apple trees. I'm checking around for local nurseries that might have already started espalier trees. At my age, 3 years to fruit is a long time......LOL ... Posted by pajaritomt (from Los Alamos, NM) on February 16, 2008 at 1:40 PM: I once thought I would espalier a pear tree against a standard cedar fence. In just a year or so, it had broken the cross bar on the fence! Industrial strength materials are required. This cross bar was just a 2 x 4. ... Posted by doccat5 (from Fredericksburg, VA) on February 16, 2008 at 1:52 PM: Thanks for the input, pajaitomt. Yeah, I think that's why they recommend such heavy cable. One of the neighbors still has espaliered apple trees and I've been helping the new guy with those. They bear heavily and he's had to go back in and add additional supports for that. I'm so glad they didn't tear them out. These are at least 20 years old and the old gentleman who previously owned the property mentored and helped me tremendously when we were first starting. He taught me how to graft on fruit trees. I have a pear I'd like to try, but it's been a long, long time since I've done any of this. I need to do some study and refresh my knowledge. I plan to do an article on that too. I'm not real knowledgable about perennials, but I do know veggies, fruit and nut trees from hands on experience. LOL ... Posted by pajaritomt (from Los Alamos, NM) on February 16, 2008 at 2:29 PM: I think espaliers are wonderful and wouldn't mind having some one day. I had a neighbor who created espaliers with heavy posts and wire and they worked very well. He got several apple trees into a small space. I took the lazy way and realized why the heavy duty wood and wire. I have seen espaliers on plaster walls near here, but I wonder what is underneath that plaster -- wood or cinder block. So far they haven't broken loose, but I keep watching!
I would love to know how to graft. ... Posted by doccat5 (from Fredericksburg, VA) on February 16, 2008 at 2:37 PM: Well everything I've read is to make sure your tree is away from the building and use a strong support system until you get it trained. I found several sites of nurseries that sell ready to "eat" esplaied trees. Just beautiful. And search sites for French done espalier will just blow your mind. Of course, they've been doing for a couple hundred years, so it oughta be right. LOL ... Posted by Pamgarden (from Nellysford, VA) on February 16, 2008 at 7:19 PM: Cathy, I didn't realize you are Doccat5. I enjoy reading your posts in the Mid-Atlantic forum--how lucky for me. Great article. I've always wanted to try an espalier. Due to the topography of our property, the foundation on the rear of our house is higher out of the ground than we had thought it would be. We have about 20' length x 6' height of brick foundation, with a southern orientation. Would that wall be too hot in our zone in summer to espalier? I think it would look great to have three trees across that length. It would help mitigate the monolithic look of that particular view. I would need to find trees that already have a start since I'm older than I thought I would be at this age. ... Posted by doccat5 (from Fredericksburg, VA) on February 16, 2008 at 8:00 PM: I think your site would be perfect! All that lovely warm brick...oh yeah. I'm not sure who may have already started esplaiered trees in our part of the country. But here are a couple sites that do have them. Their not cheap, but they sure are beautiful!
[HYPERLINK@www.lancasterfarms.com]
[HYPERLINK@www.henryleuthardtnurseries.com]
[HYPERLINK@www.raintreenursery.com]
You can also google your self for more detailed info.
It's an amazing amount of data and information available about this method. The French sites are to die for, but they've been doing it a couple hundred years, so it's like "yeah, I should hope you'd get it right"......LOL ...
Login to post a comment.
| 
