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The truffle is an expensive, highly sought-after fungus about the size of a walnut, famous in French cuisine, and grows 15-20 inches deep among the roots of trees. (Think underground mushrooms.) They are indeed hunted with female pigs capable of sniffing out the delicate, perfumery aroma said to mimic the male pig sex hormone. Here in the United States we have recently begun cultivating truffles and have trained dogs to sniff them out. Apparently dogs are not as likely to eat the valuable crop as are pigs.
I have never eaten nor even seen or smelled a truffle, nor am I likely to do so at their exorbitant cost. However, truffles fascinate me by their mystique, their cultivation, and the delightful sounding dishes prepared with a touch of truffles. Another reason for my consideration of truffles is as a possible cash crop for the small family farm. Inoculated tree stock can now be purchased from several places in the US, and will bear harvests in as little as 5 years. The harvests will increase with the maturity of the trees and can continue for decades.
Truffles belong to the fungal genus Tuber. “Truffles are the ‘fruit’ of fungi that live in mutually beneficial (ectomycorrhizal) symbioses with the roots of host trees. The truffle fungus explores the soil for water and mineral nutrients, which it passes along to the tree. In exchange, the tree provides sugars produced through photosynthesis to the fungus.” [1]
In France and much of Europe, truffles are found mainly in the roots of oaks. There is reported success in North Carolina of growing truffles in the common European hazelnut (Corylus avellana) inoculated with the fungus. In the Pacific northwest, they are using inoculated oaks (Quercus ilex, the holly oak, and Quercus pubescens, the downy oak) as well as hazelnuts and other species. Somewhere I read of success with birch but I have lost the reference. Generally the inoculated trees are planted and maintained as a ‘plantation’ or orchard. Yields per acre of 200-500 trees can vary from 25 pounds to 100 pounds, and like any farming operation, site selection, soil fertility and preparation, climate and orchard maintenance all affect yields.
Perhaps the best known truffles are the French black Perigord, Tuber melanosporum, and the Italian white truffle, Tuber magnatum. They fetch retail prices of between $1,000 and $3,000 per pound, with the white truffle being the more rare and expensive. It is estimated that the world market could absorb 50 times more truffles than France currently produces. There are now truffle-growing areas in Spain, Sweden, New Zealand, Australia, Oregon, North Carolina, Tennessee and the UK. [2]
Culinary Use
White truffles were a favorite of the Emperor Claudius in ancient Rome, of Madame Pompadour in Paris, and of Marilyn Monroe.
“The truffle is the very diamond of gastronomy…” - Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1755-1826), French gastronomic philosopher - - Rossini (1792-1868, The Barber of Seville and William Tell, etc.) defined truffles as the Mozart of the kitchen.
Because of their high prices, truffles are used sparingly. Truffles lose their distinctive aroma (said to be somewhat like sweet, fresh earth) very quickly and are often shaved raw at the table over salads, omelets and pastas or inserted as slivers in meats. They are found in foie gras, patés, and risottos. Truffle oil is sometimes used as a substitute but it is a chemical product and contains no truffles.
Many wonderful things are found below the earth. Some, like potatoes, are mundane and familiar to all. Others are extremely rare and most people live their whole life without ever seeing one. Such is the truffle. [3]
Truffle Omelet
Beat three eggs with a touch of fresh ground pepper and a dash of water or cream (no salt until after cooking please; it causes chemical changes that toughen the egg).
The more thoroughly you beat the eggs, the smoother the omelet will be, and if you beat them to the point of fluffiness, the omelet will be very light and fluffy and should be cooked over slightly lower heat.
Fry gently in an omelet pan.
Option I: About 5 minutes before the end of the cooking, add sliced White truffles. Try adding them, waiting a minute and then turning off the flame and letting them sit for an additional few minutes to allow them to incorporate into the dish.
Option II: Add (in the last 30 seconds of cooking after the heat is off) Italian white truffle shavings. Top omelets with creme fraiche or unsweetened whipped cream.
Option III: Add sliced, peeled black truffles soaked in brandy right after the eggs have set slightly, a few minutes into the cooking.
I have a 'growing my own food' obsession that grew out of my overlapping interests in cooking, nutrition and gardening. I am also a teacher (but outside the System), a writer, and a builder… and a craftsperson and... and… and many other things, LOL. In fact, I guess I am a generalist.
I live in the southern Appalachian Mountains on a hillside with a creek in front and drive a 15 year old truck I lovingly call “My Farmer’s Ferrari.”
Posted by Sundownr (from (Bev) Wytheville, VA) on March 25, 2008 at 11:45 PM:
Thanks Darius. I really enjoyed the truffle article. Truffle trees as a cash crop, what an interesting potential.
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Posted by darius (from Marion, VA) on March 26, 2008 at 11:29 AM:
Sundownr, I'm not sure if I can grow them here (Marion, VA) myself... may try in a couple of years. Too much to do right now in a new garden!
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Posted by Sundownr (from (Bev) Wytheville, VA) on March 27, 2008 at 1:11 AM:
Well hello neighbor!!! I'm fascinated with the concept of raising truffles after reading your article and searching through the links you furnished. I believe it would cost a few pennies to have a potential site throughly tested, prepared, and otherwise checked out for the tree planting. I think I favor the nut trees for a backup crop, if only for personal use.
I expected the trees to cost more than the prices posted. It would definitely be a good long term investment if the trees were successful! You could start out planting just a few per year until it was confirmed the truffles "took hold," then increase the investment with even more trees. I'd like to visit one of the truffle platations in NC to learn more about it first hand.
BTW, I've never seen, nor tasted, a truffle either... but I'm game! Like you, my garden, yard, and family take most of my time... then there's the harvesting. Keep us posted on any new truffle info and your plans regarding them. I'm close enough to lend a hand if needed, at the very least for morale support (cheerleader).
Thanks again for the informative article,
Sundownr
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Subject: Good One
Posted by phicks (from Lakeland, FL) on March 19, 2008 at 4:35 PM:
Good Article Paul
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Posted by darius (from Marion, VA) on March 21, 2008 at 5:17 PM:
Thanks.
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Subject: Tried and don't like..
Posted by lcosden (from Pawling, NY) on March 19, 2008 at 1:36 PM:
I've tried raw truffles in salads and over eggs in France (company paid trip). Have to say, for all that hype I don't like the taste of it at all. Got a strong earthy aroma that I just don't care for.. Before I get classified as a cheap date there, I much prefer caviar (when I don't have to pay for it).. :) I figured if I want that earthy aroma in my food, I'll just sprinkle some dirt in my dish.. That's my two cents for those who haven't tried it..
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Posted by darius (from Marion, VA) on March 21, 2008 at 5:17 PM:
Thanks. I kinda assumed a very earthy taste just from reading.
That was a good read. I'd love to take a sow truffle hunting. It would be a hoot. Like you Darius, I've never tried them but have always been fascinated by their mystique.
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Posted by Sharran (from Calvert City, KY) on March 19, 2008 at 1:45 AM:
How interesting. I have always wondered what made truffles so expensive. Now I know. Too bad I will probably never have a taste.
Thanks, Darius, great article.
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Posted by RLechelt (from Calgary
(Canada)) on March 19, 2008 at 1:58 PM:
Truffles are not cheap......but in the right context, they cetrailnly not exorbiantly expensive!! I buy them often, but in SMALL smounts, usually no more than $30 at a time. I soak them in high quality olive oil, and they last quite a few dishes. the flavor is extremely concentrated, so one truffle (approx $30) will last quite a while. If you havnt tried them, DO SO. Look up a recipe for Wild Mushroom and Leek Risotto with Shaved Truffles and Truffle Oil.....AMAZING. Try them in scrambled eggs, on a salad, JUST TRY THEM.
Life is about experiencing new things, isnt it? IF you dont like them, at least you can say you have the experience.
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Posted by doccat5 (from Fredericksburg, VA) on March 19, 2008 at 2:46 PM:
Fascinating, well written article as always, Darius. Never gave these much thought, but they look and sound yummy. I have been hunting with a sow, only it was with a friend and we were hunting pheasant back in Nebraska when a was a young woman. What a hoot that was. Sadie, the sow thought she was a golden retriever and behaved like one. My friend had raised her from birth, she was the runt of the litter and nursed off of my friends golden retriever bitch. She was death on rattlesnakes and one of the best "bird dogs" I've ever hunted with. My friend paid for her college fees with the sale of Sadie's piglets. She was a pedigreed New Hampshire sow. My friends dad raised and did show work with that breed. Sadie was quite a treat to be around for most of us. The poor meter reader and postman weren't so fond of her as she didn't like "strangers" on the property and would charge them, squealing and snapping her tusks. My friend's mom never had to worry about strangers coming on the property when she was there by herself.
Its great to see some appreciation of pigs Doccat. They are more than just pork, as you know. They have an excellent reputation as steadfast companions. I love seeing them at agriculture shows & the way kids react to them. They are beautiful creatures IMO.
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Posted by darius (from Marion, VA) on March 21, 2008 at 5:12 PM:
