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We all have them, some more than others. Some we rarely see, some that we can expect every year. Some are very poisonous, some are helpful. No matter what type of gardener you are sooner of later they will show up and you will need to deal with them, WEEDS.
Number 10/Canada Thistle
One of the most common weeds found throughout North America.
Canada thistle is a deep-rooted perennial, which means it lives for several years. Mowing or pulling of this weed is not effective because it grows again from vegetative buds on the roots. The roots can extend into the ground 10 feet or more, so cultivation in gardens and flower beds will not help to control this weed. In fact, cultivation can even worsen a Canadian thistle problem. A piece only one-half inch long can produce new plants from the countless vegetative buds in the root system.
Control
Due to the extensive root system of this plant an herbicide that attacks the roots as well as the foliage is the only effective way to control this weed.The herbicide should contain glyphosate (Roundup or Finale).These products are fairly safe as they break down and pass from the soil rather quickly.
Number 9/ Broadleaf plantain
Broadleaf plantain is a perennial weed that grows in areas of inconsistent moisture. Leaves are smooth and oval. Leaf blades are large, 3 to 6 inches long, with prominent veins. Roots are fibrous and shallow. Flowers are produced on stalks, 3 to 6 inches in length.
Control
Watch lawns and beds closely; remove young plants before they set seeds. Digging out perennial plantain plants must be done regularly for several years to be successful.
Mulching with landscape fabrics can be effective for controlling seedlings.Established plantain can be controlled if the fabric is overlapped and no light is allowed to penetrate to the soil. Use a polypropylene or polyester fabric or black polyethylene (plastic tarp) to block all plant growth. Cover fabric mulches with an organic mulch to improve appearance. Organic mulches may also effectively control plantain seedlings if they are at least 3 inches deep, are coarse enough, and regularly inspected and weeded so they do not serve as a growth medium for new plantain seedlings.For organic mulches, it helps to apply a 6-inch layer initially to account for the gradual degradation that will occur over the growing season. Reapply as necessary.
Number 8/ Dandelion
Dandelion is a perennial that grows best in moist areas with full sun; however, it can survive some shade and dry conditions once established.It produces a strong taproot that is capable of penetrating the soil to a depth of 10 to 15 feet, but it is most commonly 6 to 18 inches deep. Buds grow from the uppermost area of the root, producing a crown that can regenerate "new" plants even though the plant is cut off at or below the soil surface. Sections of the root as short as 1 inch in length are also capable of producing new plants.
Dandelions can be a major weed problem for turf and ornamental areas. A dandelion’s texture and color varies from that of normal turf grass. The yellow flowers reduce the aesthetic quality of the turf grass
Control
Young plants can easily be hand pulled. Pre-emergent herbicides work well in lawns. Post emergent herbicides that control broadleaf weeds (2, 4-D, triclopyr, MCPA, and mecoprop) can control dandelion seedlings in flower beds.
Dandelion leaves are edible and are often used in salads. Just make sure that they are harvested from areas free of herbicides. The flowers can be used to make dandelion wine.
Number 7/ Sorrel
.A hardy perennial, sorrel is most common in the eastern half of North America. Plants spread by seed, and by producing plantlets on shallow roots. Sorrel is closely related to the salad herb of the same name, but the wild version is often called sheep's sorrel. The young, arrowhead-shaped leaves are edible and have a sharp, sour flavor.
Control
The least toxic method is hand pulling. This works especially well when the soil is wet. Most weeds reproduce primarily from seeds, and the seeds of some weeds can remain viable when buried in the soil for decades. So it's essential to keep weeds from shedding seeds in the garden. Garden weeds that are neglected until they reach seed-bearing age can be lopped off near the soil line with pruning shears, a stout knife, or a string trimmer with a blade attachment. Cutting back perennial weeds again and again not only reduces reseeding, it also forces the plants to use up food reserves stored in their roots.
Number 6/Pokeweed
Pokeweed, also called pokeberry or inkberry, is a member of the pokeweed family. It is a tall, simple perennial herb, growing from a thick, fleshy root. Pokeweed grows from the crown of the thick fleshy root, but reproduces only by seed. Pokeweed is found from Maine to Minnesota and southward to the Gulf of Mexico. The plant is very toxic to both humans and animals except for birds that eat the berries and scatter the seeds over wide areas.
Control
Because of the danger of human poisoning, pokeweed should be eradicated when discovered. This is especially true if the plants are in hedges, gardens, and other areas adjacent to a home where children may be attracted by clusters of berries. If only a few plants occur in an area, pull them up by the roots and destroy them by burning. If the area is large, use an herbicide like Roundup or Finale.
Number 5/ Jimsonweed
Jimsonweed is an annual herb which grows up to 5 feet tall. It has a pale green stem with spreading branches. Leaves are green or purplish in coloration. Flowers are white or purple with a 5-pointed corolla up to four inches long and set on short stalks in the axils of branches. Seeds are contained in a hard, spiny capsule, about 2 inches in diameter, which splits lengthwise into four parts when ripe.
All parts of this plant are poisonous. Jimson weed is found throughout the United States and most of Canada.
Control
An application of herbicide is recommended as soon this plant is discovered.Due to the toxic nature of this plant be on the lookout for the plants reemergence.
Number 4/Ragweed
Ragweed can be either an annual or perennial depending on the species and region.
It is found throughout most of North America.
Each plant is reputed to be able to produce about a billion grains of pollen over a season, and is wind-pollinated It is highly allergenic, generally considered the greatest allergen of all pollens, and the prime cause of hay fever in North America.
Control
Total removal of ragweed is considered impossible, owing to the plant's frugality and tremendous seed-producing capability. As of 2005, there is no known safe biological control to be used against ragweed in the open. One efficient method for large-scale ragweed extermination is chemical spraying. Because ragweed only reacts to some of the more aggressive herbicides, it is highly recommended to consult professionals when deciding on dosage and methodology, especially near urban areas.
Number 3/ Common Milkweed
This is what I classify as a “good weed”.Common milkweed is a perennial growing from a rhizome.The stem is very hairy and all parts of the plants produce white latex when broken.
Monarch butterflies lay their eggs on this plant and the larva feed on it.
Encourage this plant to grow in your gardens, the butterflies will thank you.
Number2/Ground Ivy (Creeping Charlie).
Ground ivy is an aggressive, low-growing, perennial invader of lawns, vegetable gardens, and flower beds. Ground ivy roots at each joint whenever it touches the soil, thus making it difficult to hand pull. The small flowers are funnel shaped and bluish-purple in color
Control
Preemergence herbicides do not control ground ivy; accordingly, we are left with post emergence controls. The most effective control comes with the use of combination herbicides that contain the product dicamba. The best time to achieve good control is in the fall, from mid-September to early November. The next best time to control ground ivy is when it is just beginning to flower. Two herbicide applications, spaced 10 to 14 days apart are usually necessary to achieve good control.
Ground ivy, though difficult, can be successfully removed. Once you've gone through the work of eliminating it, good mowing, fertilization, and cultural practices will help keep it out of the lawn. In flower and vegetable gardens, keep a plant-free zone at the edge of the garden to allow for easy control of invasive weeds before they spread into desirable plantings.
Number 1/ Bindweed (creeping jenny)
In my opinion this is one of the most invasive weeds in the United States. I’ve seen it run for 30-40 feet under landscape fabric and mulch to emerge to the sunlight. In urban areas it gets started in areas such as schoolyards and parks where maintenance is usually minimal. Once it gets a foothold it is extremely hard to kill.
Field bindweed is a deep-rooted perennial weed that is well adapted to most of North America. It is a native of Europe and western Asia and was introduced to this country during colonial days. Bindweed is found across the United States, except in a few southwestern states.
Bindweed can be spread by seed, root fragments, implements, infested soil adhering to the roots of nursery stock, root growth from infested areas, and by animals. This weed has a deep root system that competes with desirable plants for water and nutrients. Vines climb on plants and shade the plant hindering growth.
Control
Established bindweed is difficult to control. An effective control program should prevent seed production, kill roots and root buds, and prevent infestation by seedlings. This plant is very persistent and a successful control program must be more persistent.
The best control of field bindweed is obtained with a combination of cultivation, selective herbicides, and competitive crops.
Intensive cultivation that controls newly emerged seedlings, may kill young bindweed infestations, and contributes to control of established stands. Timely cultivations deplete the root reserves of established plants and stimulate dormant seeds to germinate.
Bindweed can be controlled when tilled eight to 12 days after each emergence throughout the growing season. During control experiments in the Midwest 16 to 18 tillage operations over more than two years, at two- to three-week intervals were needed to eliminate established stands of bindweed. .
Long-term control of bindweed from herbicides depends on movement of a sufficient amount of herbicide through the root system to kill the roots and root buds. This requires use of systemic (movement throughout the plant) herbicides. Examples of systemic herbicides include 2,4-D, dicamba (Banvel/Clarity), picloram (Tordon), and glyphosate (Roundup or equivalent).
For successful control, herbicides should be applied when bindweed is actively growing and stems are at least 12 inches long.Plants growing under moisture or heat stress usually have smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and slower biological processes than plants growing in more favorable conditions. As plant stress increases, herbicide uptake and translocation decreases, which in turn decreases herbicide performance.
References and photo credits:
University of Arkansas Extension
University of Vermont
University of Illnois
Shawnee County Kansas Extension Service
University of Virginia
Ohio State University Extension
About Paul Rodman
Paul Rodman has been gardening for over 40 years. He is an Advanced Master Gardener, and American Rose Society Consulting Rosarian. He is currently president of the Western Wayne County Master Gardener Association in Wayne County, Michigan.
Rodman is the garden columnist for The News Herald newspaper, in Southgate, Michigan. He has also written for the OrganicGardening.com web site.
He has lectured on various gardening topics throughout southeastern Michigan.
His favorite pastime is teaching children about gardening. For the past several years he has conducted classes for second grade students teaching them about subjects ranging from vermi-composting to propagation.
Posted by CornMaiden (from Schenectady, NY) on May 12, 2008 at 10:16 AM:
Creeping Charlie was enemy #1 until Creeping Jenny/Bindweed hit my yard! It is growing EVERYWHERE, including inside my garage. I have just read Paul Rodman's info about this plant, but I was wondering if anyone knows of a friendlier way to rid myself of this plant. I hate to use chemicals; any advice?
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Subject: Regional Weeds (cont'd) Pic #2
Posted by MarshaMLF (from Chapel Hill, NC) on May 11, 2008 at 6:32 PM:
Regional Weeds (cont'd) Pic #2
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Subject: Regional Weeds (cont'd) Pic #1
Posted by MarshaMLF (from Chapel Hill, NC) on May 11, 2008 at 6:29 PM:
Here's the first picture of my creeping culprit.
"Creeping" is a misnomer ... "sprinting" is more like it :)
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Subject: creeping charlie is #1 enemy
Posted by soapwort243 (from South Milwaukee, WI) on May 9, 2008 at 6:04 PM:
I vote creeping charlie as #1 worst weed, with creeping jenny as 2nd. They are both so hard to get out. Dandelions and thistles tie for #3. ;)
Great article !!
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Posted by gallesfarm (from Tamworth, NH) on May 12, 2008 at 7:16 AM:
I agree with you 100% about creeping charlie. I like dandelions though. We have sheep and the more dandelions the better. Same goes for plantain. They'll even eat thistle, but we cut it or pulled it up.
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Subject: Regional weeds
Posted by happy_macomb (from Chevy Chase, MD) on May 9, 2008 at 3:26 PM:
I enjoyed your article. I'd like to see DG offer similar articles on a regional basis. While some of the weeds that you mentioned are also common here, we also have lots of other weeds, including garlic mustard grass and henbit. I'm trying to identify the major weeds in my yard this year, and some are still eluding me. Identifying the weeds makes control much easier.
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Posted by paulgrow (from Allen Park, MI) on May 9, 2008 at 3:31 PM:
We have garlic mustard here also, it's becoming a real problem.
Perhaps I'll do a second article on 10 more weeds.
Paul
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Posted by MarshaMLF (from Chapel Hill, NC) on May 9, 2008 at 6:53 PM:
Paul -
I will look forward to your next installment! Your photos are very good. I've got lots of varieties of weeds and I haven't taken the time to learn what they are and the easiest route to eradication. Henbit it rampant here, also, along with shot-weed, something my husband calls wild geranium (a rampant vine-like menace that puts down roots every few inches), and the bane of my gardening life: Japanese stilt grass.
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Posted by happy_macomb (from Chevy Chase, MD) on May 10, 2008 at 7:52 AM:
Marsha: That was very helpful!
Shotweed -- [HYPERLINK@pep.wsu.edu] -- we have it too. I didn't know what it was called.
Wild geranium – The only one I can find is Carolina Geranium, Geranium carolinianum, and it isn’t a vine -- [HYPERLINK@www.weedalert.com] We have that one too – again, I didn’t know its name.
Posted by MarshaMLF (from Chapel Hill, NC) on May 10, 2008 at 9:32 AM:
Happy -
Thanks for the links!
What my husband has been calling "wild geranium" isn't the Carolina Geranium as pictured. Definitely not bindweed, although I have that, too. I'll post a photo later today. It's a very common weed, I'm sure someone will ID it.
The shot-weed responded quickly and decisively to a spritz of round-up when it appeared this spring.
I'll be back with a photo!
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Posted by happy_macomb (from Chevy Chase, MD) on May 11, 2008 at 8:30 AM:
Thank you! This is really helpful for me!
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Posted by MarshaMLF (from Chapel Hill, NC) on May 11, 2008 at 6:02 PM:
I've got the photos but there doesn't seem to be an option to post them unless I start a new thread. Which I will do. Wish me luck.
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Posted by SueHansen (from Glencliff, NH) on May 12, 2008 at 7:31 AM:
Great article! I'll try the dandelion leaves in a salad.
What about Betany? I live in northFlorida, and it is everywhere and hard to eradicate, with its long white roots and corms.
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Subject: You don't need to use nasty herbicides.
Posted by BennysPlace (from Tucson, AZ) on May 9, 2008 at 1:54 PM:
To clear your garden of "weeds", you do not have to resort to the easy way out by using chemicals. There are many organic methods out there that will work. One only needs to take the time to do so.
If vigilant, the best method of getting rid of "weeds" to date is getting on your hands and knees and digging the offending plants out. True it is work but gardens are just that -- work.
Before you reach for that chemical spray, etc., think about the long term effects of what you are doing. What if some of that nasty chemical finds its way into a stream, river, etc? What if it then killed something in said stream, river, etc? I guess as long as you have a lovely manicured lawn with nothing present that can detract from the flowing beauty of solid green, it doesn't really matter.
While your article brought to light common weeds, it would have been more helpful if you would have spoke of the best alternative organic methods of eradication. Perhaps even suggesting letting a dandelion or two grow. Are they THAT horrible? Some of the best lawns I have seen have many things growing in them -- daisies in the spring and summer, crocuses in the late winter, etc. I offer a photo to prove my point.
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Posted by paulgrow (from Allen Park, MI) on May 9, 2008 at 2:25 PM:
I promote IPM, I wrote an article on it awhile back.
Some of the weeds such as bind weed actually multiply more when pulled as you break off the roots and thus create more plants. Follow IPM practices if at all possible.
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Posted by BennysPlace (from Tucson, AZ) on May 9, 2008 at 2:43 PM:
Hi Paul,
My criticism against herbicides was not directed toward you. It was to all gardeners in general. What constitutes a weed and control of plants deemed as weeds can be hotly contested topics.
Your article is good in that it brings to light common plants that if not controlled can cause problems in the garden. Bindweed can be a serious problem. This is true. For this, I personally recommend a weed burner. If you can keep the top growth gone long enough, the roots will eventually die. It can be an arduous process but eventually you will have success.
I am completely organic and the thought of chemicals added to any part of my garden makes me shudder.
I just found your article on IPM. I have actually read it before. It's a great article. For those interested, here is the link: [HYPERLINK@davesgarden.com]
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Posted by Indy (from Alexandria, IN) on May 9, 2008 at 6:03 PM:
Benny,
How would you handle Canada Thisle?
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Posted by BennysPlace (from Tucson, AZ) on May 9, 2008 at 6:37 PM:
Hi Lindy,
Thistle can be a bear to deal with. Young plants do pull easily. I found this out because I intentionally grew Scottish Milk Thistle. Never again though. One plant became a monster and I did not enjoy removing it (or its children). The numerous cuts and scrapes taught me a valuable lesson on trying to grow this plant. I consider myself fortunate.Once the plant was cut down to a managable size, it pulled right out. I saw no traces of any roots at all. I realize Canada Thistle would be different.
I performed a search and found a good site. There is some interesting methods of biological control for serious infestations. Otherwise, good advice is offered on how to remove the plant. Here is the link I found: [HYPERLINK@attra.ncat.org]
I just re-read my original reply. I did not mean to come across as holier than thou. As gardeners, we are the advertising target for what will make our task easy -- particularly insect and weed control. Some of the products out there are so incredibly awful. My wish in what I wrote is that people will think of an alternative before reaching for those chemicals.
Case and point. My neighbor thinks I am nuts. I have an HOA and to avoid letters, I stay on top of the weeds. I spend hours on my hands and knees and she comes out and just sprays away and tells me I am making life hard for myself. Because I hate those sprays SO much, I now pull up her weeds in exchange for her giving me the chemicals for proper disposal.
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Posted by Indy (from Alexandria, IN) on May 9, 2008 at 8:05 PM:
Benny, I can remember the days ['40s] when Uncle Jack was fighting patches of Canada Thistle in a field. He would disc or plow those suckers. Course, the thistles won. I do believe that without chemical control in the fields of the larger farming states that Canada Thistles would likely cover nearly entire fields by now..it is that pervasive since Uncle Jack's fighting days.
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Posted by wabzy (from Islip, NY) on May 12, 2008 at 8:08 AM:
Friends,
I have discovered that pouring pure white vinegar, full stregth, onto difficult weeds has been a marvellous weed killer. I don't know what it will do to the thistle but I would try it before using any more chemicals! Buy a couple of gallons and see how it works! It has worked on pleanty of weeds for me! Good lick!
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Subject: Poke Weed
Posted by CajuninKy (from Inez, KY) on May 9, 2008 at 9:04 AM:
I am curious about #6. You have it listed as toxic. It is eaten here in Ky. When the leaves are small they are cooked like any other green. When the plant is large, the stalks are rolled in corn meal and fried. It looks exactly ike the picture with your article. Is there a similar plant by the same name that is not toxic?
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Posted by paulgrow (from Allen Park, MI) on May 9, 2008 at 9:22 AM:
Pokeweed contains phytolaccatoxin and phytolaccigenin, which are poisonous to mammals. However, the berries are eaten by birds, which are not affected by the toxin because the small seeds with very hard outer shells remain intact in the digestive system and are eliminated whole.
Young pokeweed leaves can be boiled three times to reduce the toxin, discarding the water after each boiling. The result is known as poke salit, or poke salad.
I guess it's similar to Rhubarb, the leaves are toxic but the stems are edible.
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Posted by MarshaMLF (from Chapel Hill, NC) on May 9, 2008 at 1:15 PM:
Great article!
But, I'm puzzled by #6 as well. In my family (Maryland & Virginia) poke leaves were boiled and eaten like any other greens (collards, kale, mustard, turnip). Poke leaves lose a lot of volume when cooked-down - it took a large quantity to make "a mess". Usually, they were combined with other greens in the pot. I never heard the term "poke salit" until the CCR song "Poke Salit Annie" came out.
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Posted by CajuninKy (from Inez, KY) on May 9, 2008 at 3:13 PM:
I wonder if the toxin is what makes them a bit on the strong or bitter side?
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Posted by MarshaMLF (from Chapel Hill, NC) on May 9, 2008 at 6:42 PM:
I wouldn't venture a guess. Very interesting the deep-fried stems!
Hadn't heard of that before.
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Subject: Your weed, my garden
Posted by MitchF (from Oklahoma City, OK) on May 9, 2008 at 8:45 AM:
I find several of the weeds on your list are plants that I let grow in my garden for one resaon or another!
And these grow in the Herb garden for medical use,
Pokeweed
Sorrel
Dandelion
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Posted by McGlory (from Southeast, NE) on May 9, 2008 at 10:06 AM:
There are a couple in your article I hadn't seen. (Fingers crossed) I definitely have bindweed and creeping Charlie though! And something else that wasn't on the list. I'm printing this article for reference. Thank you for a good job, Paul.
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Posted by carrielamont (from Milton, MA) on May 9, 2008 at 10:19 AM:
Paul,
Every year when the dandelions sprinkle our lawn, I'm frantically urging DH to mow before the flowers turn into puffballs and broadcast their seed over yet more of the lawn. Is this only a side aspect of their bid for world domination? I know we have to dig them up if we really want them gone, but does the puffball stage result in zillions more seedlings, or is that old-fashioned of me to think so?
Thanks for an extremely helpful article!
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Posted by BennysPlace (from Tucson, AZ) on May 9, 2008 at 2:12 PM:
Hi Mitch,
I too grow dandelions -- on purpose. They too are in my herb garden and I look forward to a crop of greens. They are incredibly good for you.
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Posted by TexasTam (from Plano, TX) on May 9, 2008 at 2:33 PM:
Bindweed is evil! It has taken over the native plant display in our Community Garden and I fear we'll never get it out. On the other hand, I welcome dandelions in my yard - my pet tortoise loves to eat them.
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Posted by stellamarina (from Laie, HI) on May 9, 2008 at 4:31 PM:
I have just read an article in a New Zealand newspaper recommending that some plants long concidered weeds in the fields, should be allowed to grow because they add so much more vitamins and minerals to the food of the sheep and cows etc than just ordinary grass. Dandelion and plantain were two of them. Aloha
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Posted by carrielamont (from Milton, MA) on May 9, 2008 at 4:32 PM:
Interesting perspective!
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Posted by MegOntario (from Dundas, Ontario
(Canada)) on May 12, 2008 at 6:07 PM:
Another name for bindweed in my neck of the woods is Devil's Weed. I have heard that it reduces the yield of a wheat field by half. I wonder if this is an exaggeration, but in a world where people can't make bread because they can't afford the flour, a plant that takes over a field of wheat is not charming, even if it is "native."
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Subject: weeds, weeds, and more weeds
Posted by tcs1366 (from Itasca, IL) on May 9, 2008 at 7:56 AM:
Paul,
thanks for the great article. I'm dealing with a few of those listed, along with Cutleaf Teasel. [the bane of my existence]
Very informative! Plus helped me identify a few that i did not know names to.
Terese
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Posted by onewish1 (from Denville, NJ) on May 9, 2008 at 9:13 AM:
i have tons of ground ivy... violets are serious in NJ (our state flower... weed in my book).... and what ever the insult to injury weed ... if you go to pull it too late it explodes seeds in your face.. not sure what that one is but it's nuts around here
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Posted by gallesfarm (from Tamworth, NH) on May 12, 2008 at 7:21 AM:
Sounds like purslane. This does the exploding seed thing too. Bajillions of little tiny black seeds and I think every single one sprouts. Purslane is edible, but you can't eat enough purslane to get rid of it. It's a drought tolerant weed too, so when everything else is drying up, it's happily enjoying the hot sun. I read somewhere that in India it is cultivated as a food plant, and has very good nutritional value. But it sure will take over given half a chance.
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Posted by onewish1 (from Denville, NJ) on May 12, 2008 at 7:35 AM:
the good thing is they do pull out very easy
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Posted by gallesfarm (from Tamworth, NH) on May 15, 2008 at 7:54 PM:
Yes, it does pull out easily. I also read that once pulled, they can still set seed before they die because they have so much water stored up in their fleshy little succulent stems and leaves. So I was pulling them and leaving them (figuring they'd break down and go back into the soil) and wondering why I was still getting zillions of little seedlings coming up. I think "insult to injury weed" is a very good name. :-)
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Posted by onewish1 (from Denville, NJ) on May 15, 2008 at 8:01 PM:
good to know..... thanks... sometimes i do the same thing... i like that name ..every time it hits me it takes me by surprise
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Posted by duck_toller (from Middleton, WI) on May 27, 2008 at 8:20 PM:
Great article. Think I've pulled, round-up'd, and attacked every one of those plus some. I also have "enjoyed" virginia creeper, field garlic, violets, and of course crab grass. The other pests (but less so) are the baby silver maples and wild grapes.
