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In the mysteries that surround Southern Food, questions always arise when the talk comes to peas. We Southerners grow and eat our peas with a delight and devotion rarely seen anywhere, much to the curiosity of anyone north of the Ohio River. What we call Peas, and the rest of the world calls peas are two different plants
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 Cowpeas, Field Peas, Stock Peas and Southern Peas are just a few names by which the Vigna unguiculata is known. Its humble origins seem to be in northern Africa where it's still cultivated to this day. It sustains the people who live on the very edge of existence, and it thrives in hot, dry conditions. (1)
Brought across the Atlantic to the Caribbean Basin, in the holds of the same ships that carried the tragic passengers who became slaves, it was introduced to the Americas during this dark portion of our history. There are records of it’s use in Jamaica as early as 1675. It has documented use in Florida in 1700 and North Carolina in 1714.(1)
Often known as a 'poor man's' food, the Landed Gentry of the Eastern Seaboard preferred the English Pea, Pisum sativum, and considered the Cowpea simply that: peas grown to feed the cows. George Washington imported 40 bushels of what he called "pease" from Jamaica in 1797 to plant in his fields for forage, but no record exists that he actually sampled them himself. He would probably be shocked to learn that his cattle, slaves, and sharecroppers were enjoying such a nutritious diet. Actually, George and his buddies were the same enlightened group who declared the tomato poisonous and unfit for humans, while his poorer, but healthier counterparts were eating those with gusto too!
Cowpeas consist of an average of 24% protein, are rich in the amino acids lysine and tryptophan, and are most nutritious when eaten in combination with cereals. (2) The Southern custom of serving Peas with cornbread, rice, or biscuits is a tradition that is actually healthy, although carbohydrate heavy. This makes them an ideal food for vegetarians and people who limit their meat intake. The young shoots and leaves can be cooked and eaten in a manner similar to asparagus, or they can be prepared as one would any green such as turnip greens and collards. The ancient Romans and the peoples of the Mediterranean Basin were familiar with them, and ate Cowpeas prepared in a number of different ways. The young pea pods were often prepared as one would snap beans. The dried leaves are still used today as a meat substitute in poorer villages.
When the cowpea reached the southern United States, it was a perfect marriage of plant, climate, and economic conditions. Southern farmers embraced the Pea enthusiastically, and through the years, many varieties were developed. Some becoming regional favorites, but little known elsewhere. Many colorful names were given to this favorite legume, and while the world probably is familiar with Black Eyed Peas, other names are much less common. Names like Clay, Red Ripper, Calico, Rattlesnake, Whippoorwill, Rouge et Noire, Mississippi Silver, and Texas Cream may evoke delightful taste memories to many 'old timers‘, but the rest of the world is ignorant of the variety available. The Clay pea is a variety that has historical significance, as Confederate soldiers carried them in their field sacks, as a non-perishable food source. Today, some groups who re-enact history grow the Clay pea as an authentic food for use in their field provisions.
The Cowpea is a great plant that can survive and thrive in a broad range of conditions. Its few pests consist of aphids and stink bugs, and its one cultural problem is that it does not like 'wet feet'. It likes long, hot summers, but can be successfully grown in parts of the United States with less than ideal conditions. Varieties with shorter maturity dates are available for gardeners with a less lengthy summer. Gardeners in the west, where moisture is of a premium, and the heat devastates many vegetables, should consider growing the cowpea. It would be one of the few vegetables that wouldn't have to be babied just to get a harvest. African American gardeners who would like to grow crops that have a deep cultural and historical significance should consider planting a patch of cowpeas. It has an authentic African connection that is still in evidence today. Gardeners in other parts of the world should check with their agricultural import laws. Australia is very strict in regards to the type of plants and seeds that they allow into the country. Asia and the Middle-East would be ideal areas to grow cowpeas, but local import laws should be followed. Spain, Portugal and parts of France have great cowpea climates too.
Cowpeas give back to the soil a huge supply of nitrogen, making them a great rotational crop with hungrier vegetables. Corn is most often planted the season after cowpeas because it consumes vast amounts of nitrogen. Cowpeas can be used as a nitrogen fixer and as green manure.
The lowly cowpea has been snubbed for centuries as an inferior food source suitable for livestock and ‘poor folks’. When the truth comes out, it looks like they’re the ones who got the prize.
Footnotes
(1) Texas A & M: Plant Answers: Vegetable Travelers
(2) Univ. of Wisconsin Extension Service: Alternative Field Crops Manual
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I come from a long line of Kentuckians who love the Good Earth. I love to learn about every living thing, and love to share what I've learned. Photography is one of my passions, and all of the images in my articles are my own.
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Subject: whippoorwill pea
Posted by segars (from Buchanan, GA) on February 2, 2008 at 10:35 AM:where can i purchase whippoorwill seed. ... Posted by melody (from Benton, KY) on February 2, 2008 at 11:14 AM: [HYPERLINK@www.victoryseeds.com]
Here you go!
Victory Seeds has them, and Mike Dunton is a great guy. There is a very limited supply though. They had a terrible growing season last year. ...
Subject: Protein complementarity
Posted by andycdn (from Ottawa, ON) on August 3, 2007 at 5:27 PM:Mel, your article reminded me of 'Diet for a Small Planet' by Frances Moore Lappé, 1971. It explains how the proteins in legumes, grains and nuts/seeds, deficient by themselves, combine to provide all eight essential amino acids humans need. No wonder cowpeas, lowly though they might have been perceived, provided solid nutrition when combined with wheat, corn or rice (especially brown rice).
I used this book for years, and its companion, Recipes for a Small Planet, during my hippy-dippy vegetarian days through the seventies. Fond memories. I'll have to see if I can find anything like cowpeas around here to give them a try. Thanks! ... Posted by melody (from Benton, KY) on August 3, 2007 at 5:40 PM: Ahh yes...the seventies!!!....The EARLY seventies! Before disco! Things went downhill from there.
There are cowpea varieties that have short maturity dates...Whippoorwills for one. You don't have to grow them to the 'dry seed stage', just till the pods get big enough to use. People in other parts of the world that may not have ideal climates for growing out for seed can still grow cowpeas. ... Posted by carrielamont (from Milton, MA) on August 3, 2007 at 8:15 PM: Andy!
I had the identical reaction. I ... Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on August 5, 2007 at 12:20 PM: Hey. Melody. Andy. I have those books by Frances Lappe right here on my shelf. Vegetarians today are probably less concerned about protein complementarity. Here in Alabama, cornbread and cowpeas is definitely considered a complete meal. ... Posted by carrielamont (from Milton, MA) on August 5, 2007 at 9:00 PM: And it IS a complete meal - ask Frances.
xxx, Carrie ...
Subject: Black-eyed peas
Posted by KyWoods (from Melbourne, KY) on August 3, 2007 at 2:05 PM:I ate a lot of "black-eyed-peas" while growing up in New Orleans, and still consider them a delicious treat! Didn't know you could eat the leaves as greens, though--thanks for such an interesting article, Melody. And good to know you're here in KY! ...
Subject: Purple hulls are cowpeas, too!
Posted by PeasPlease (from Emerson, AR) on August 3, 2007 at 11:10 AM:Great article on cowpeas, Melody.
Didn't see a mention of purple hull peas, though. Just wanted to mention that purple hulls are by far the most popular of the cowpeas here in south Arkansas. In fact, there's a PurpleHull Pea Festival every year on the last Saturday of June in Emerson, Arkansas.
But what a great, informative pea story! ... Posted by PeasPlease (from Emerson, AR) on August 3, 2007 at 11:10 AM: Great article on cowpeas, Melody.
Didn't see a mention of purple hull peas, though. Just wanted to mention that purple hulls are by far the most popular of the cowpeas here in south Arkansas. In fact, there's a PurpleHull Pea Festival every year on the last Saturday of June in Emerson, Arkansas.
But what a great, informative pea story! ... Posted by tndeedee (from Knoxville, TN) on August 3, 2007 at 3:13 PM: It is very good info. on cowpeas. ... Posted by FlowrLady (from Olive Branch, MS) on August 3, 2007 at 4:28 PM: Thanks, Melody. I enjoyed reading that. ... Posted by melody (from Benton, KY) on August 3, 2007 at 5:53 PM: Oh, yes, we love our Purple Hulls here too! And Pink Eye Purple Hulls.....one of the most popular peas in the area! glad to know that it has a festival devoted to it....it deserves one! ... Posted by Gabrielle (from Washington, IL) on August 5, 2007 at 12:09 PM: Thanks for the article. My Mom, a vegetarian from Southern Arkansas has longed for her Purple Hull Peas for years, but didn't think they'd do well here in Central Illinois. Not one to be discouraged by where things are supposed to grow best, I tried Pink Eye Purple Hulls this year, and they are thriving. She is FEASTING! ... Posted by FlowrLady (from Olive Branch, MS) on August 6, 2007 at 4:11 PM: Gabrielle, that's a great thing to do for your Mom! I --KNOW-- she loves what you've done :) ...
Subject: Excellent article
Posted by lafko06 (from Brimfield, MA) on August 3, 2007 at 10:44 AM:Wow, super insightful article, I loved it. I had previously gotten some good basic information at DG on cowpeas, but this really puts them into perspective. Thank you so much for covering all the basis and what great idea for an article too. Nicely done. ...
Subject: Peas and Corn
Posted by savagegardener (from Middleton, TN) on August 3, 2007 at 10:42 AM:My mother remarried and moved to Michigan a year or so after my father died , after having been a lifelong southerner. She was lamenting earlier this spring that they could not find purple hull peas in Michigan.
So , when I harvested some of mine , I mailed her a good mess of purple hull peas. She was absolutely thrilled!!!!! Said it was like Christmas in august. She emailed me and told me the story of how when I was little bitty 3-6 years old , and someone would ask what we had had to eat, even if I had had a sandwich, I would always say "peas and corn". I STILL love my peas and corn.
Sharon ...
Subject: Nice article
Posted by BDale60 (from Warren, PA) on August 3, 2007 at 6:22 AM:I didn't know much about Cowpeas and got some good insights from your article. Thanks! ... Posted by gardenglory (from Gainesville, FL) on August 3, 2007 at 8:08 AM: I guess im just a normal southern girl it looks. LOVE and live on peas in the summer ( not english).
This week we have had Zippers ( the easiest to shell), pink eye, black eye, and my favorite and hardest to shell the conk or white acre pea. Fry up some chicken or steak to get those nice brown bits...give the meat to the dog or husband and make some homemade gravy and rice or mashed potatoes..eat that with the peas and some biscuits or cornbread...gosh...just yummy for us down here. ... Posted by melody (from Benton, KY) on August 3, 2007 at 8:26 AM: I love my peas too!
Glad ya'll liked the article...there was more to say...I just ran out of space!
I'm proud that Dave used this story to kick off the new feature. I love my veggies, and hopefully, ya'll will enjoy more of my veggie stories in the weeks and months to come! Although, veggies won't be my only topic, I do plan quite a few stories about them.
So many interesting facts and legends are associated with many of our food crops...stay tuned! ... Posted by gardenglory (from Gainesville, FL) on August 3, 2007 at 8:34 AM: Maybe if you do an article on them...you can post, or ask for suggestions for recipes for that vegeatable...one of my big problems with veggies, is new ways to cook them. The recipe forum does have good cooks with good ideas. Maybe I should refine my reguest to some that dont have cheese. Very hard to find a recipe for veggies it seems without it. Sorry...off the subject.
Its interesting that you are from KY and say you enjoy your peas. When we moved from FL to KY and then VA. I literally had to bring an empty suitcase or two to florida to fill with green peanuts and peas. For a short time in VA bch at the farmers market...one vendor would get me peas if she could. It amazed me, as I, until then, had considered them southern states. Good thing that was before 911...they would probably confiscate my stuff now.lol ... Posted by AYankeeCat (from Bridgeport, CT) on August 3, 2007 at 8:40 AM: Excellent article! I enjoyed reading it and look forward to tomorrow's offering. Antoher great idea from da Dave! ... Posted by melody (from Benton, KY) on August 3, 2007 at 8:49 AM: I can't imagine not finding peas in KY....we hoard our family seeds with a vengeance that rivals a mother Eagle.
I'm in extreme south west KY, and the climate here is totally different from the other parts of the state, but lovely peas have been discovered in Appalachian communities that have been grown for generations.
Here in our area, Purple Hulls seem to be the pea of choice, but most gardeners grow at least two different kinds. Mississppi Silver and Whippoorwills are popular choices too.
This year with the drought in this area, peas are about the only garden veggie that isn't suffering. ... Posted by gardenglory (from Gainesville, FL) on August 3, 2007 at 9:18 AM: Yes sir...those are some good peas...we were in Louisville,,,,no green peanuts...no peas. ... Posted by melody (from Benton, KY) on August 3, 2007 at 9:25 AM: Yeah, L'ville has become 'urbanized'...you have to hunt long and hard to southern comfort food....but it's there...you just have to know where to look. ... Posted by debnes_dfw_tx (from Fort Worth, TX) on August 3, 2007 at 10:05 AM: Impressive article Mel!
I always loved the field peas. Mom and I would go to my aunts farm and pic baskets of them, Then we would sit on the back patio to peel, snap and chat. She would cook them up with a little bacon, onion, and of course cornbread!! Yummy! I learned even more about their richness when I was pregnant and nursing first baby (of 4), when buying a big book on food values. These peas were high on the list.
Wasn't aware of thier history as an underdog. Always fine dining to me.
I look forward to more of your writing about the good earth.
TY :-)
Deb ... Posted by Garden4ever (from Plymouth, WI) on August 3, 2007 at 11:07 AM: Great article! Thank you! ... Posted by vossner (from Richmond, TX) on August 3, 2007 at 11:40 AM: thank you for a good article. Made me hungry! ... Posted by Horseshoe (from Efland, NC) on August 3, 2007 at 1:07 PM: Way to go, Melody!
Good write-up on the peas! Good reading (and good eatin'!).
And folks, in many areas there is still plenty of time to get in a crop of these delicious treats!
Thanks, Mel!
Shoe ... Posted by KaperC (from No. San Diego Co., CA) on August 3, 2007 at 1:43 PM: Great article, Melody. I learned a lot and it was a good read, too. ... Posted by peony01 (from Prattville, AL) on August 3, 2007 at 4:29 PM: Thanks for the article on a really good vegetable. In our area they are easy to grow, and there are many different recipes. I echo the suggestion that a link to a thread for recipes might enhance this addition to DG. I'm a transplanted Hoosier, and they are truly a staple here. ... Posted by andycdn (from Ottawa, ON) on August 3, 2007 at 5:15 PM: Well done, Mel, from a fellow writer. A great kick-off to our new feature, and good comments. ... Posted by roybird (from Santa Fe, NM) on August 3, 2007 at 6:20 PM: Very good article! Now, I want to try to grow some next summer. I love black-eyed peas and had no idea there were so many varieties. ... Posted by Islandshari (from Kwajalein
(Marshall Islands)) on August 3, 2007 at 6:34 PM: Melody - great story! I like black-eyed peas....never knew they were "cowpeas"....great history. Interesting and informative...good job!! ... Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on August 3, 2007 at 6:52 PM: What a great article! I love peas, and now I know a lot more about them. Telling their story with both your own experiences and with a historical perspective made for an entertaining read along with the useful nutrition and cultivation information. Thanks for a great kick-off article for the new daily feature! ... Posted by GrammysGardenAZ (from Cochise, AZ) on August 4, 2007 at 12:30 AM: Thank you so much for the detailed info and a well told story. I will try cooking the greens. Thanks for your time and thought in this article. Good work!! ...
Subject: Rice and peas and chicken...
Posted by dovebydesign (from Greentown, IN) on August 3, 2007 at 3:10 AM:My daughters granddad is from Jamaica and he eats a dish he called rice and peas. Although he now uses kideny beans in it because he told me he could not get the jamaican peas he used back home, it is a lovely dish and he always served it with chicken. One of the first sentences my daughter ever said was about her grandad - as we turned the corner to his street her face lite up and she said her first 'sentence' which was "Rice and peas and chicken." We called him rice and peas and chicken for the longest time!! She is 14 now and she still loves this meal. The chicken is a bit spicy and they all used to joke about how I was a bit wimpy when it came to the spice but they all tolerate the heat easily. The rice is cooked with coconut milk. ... Posted by gardenglory (from Gainesville, FL) on August 3, 2007 at 8:04 AM: One of my very favorites in the world...and we can even get pigeon peas for it at the grocery here. I used to eat it on man-a-war cay in the abacos...I think it is tame tho,
compared to the Jamacian version.
... Posted by melody (from Benton, KY) on August 3, 2007 at 8:33 AM: There's something about peas and spicy foods that just seem 'right'....I love the combo!
Thanks for your story dovebydesign. What a wonderful connection to her Jamaican heritage your daughter has. Food traditions are one of the easiest ways people can stay connected with their ancestors...and one of the things that is sadly being lost in this busy 'take out food' world. ... Posted by dovebydesign (from Greentown, IN) on August 3, 2007 at 9:40 AM: I have always tried to retain some of her culture for her as has her Dad's side of the family. Her Dad is from England and both his parents were Jamaican. She was born in Canada to me - English, Irish, touch of Spanish, so she is truly a girl of the new millenium. She has citizenship to Canada, Jamaica and England and is a perm residence of USA. Go figure! I cook all types of food for her, she eats anything from Jamaican Rice & Peas to Jamaican pattied which I am told rival a Jamaican Mama's!!
Susan ...
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