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For me, spring planting is one of the best times of year in the garden. I bury my hands in the rich, warm soil. I gently pop each plant from its pot and tuck it into the garden bed, firming the earth around it. I take my time, admiring each seedling and imagining the plant it will become. Here are a few tips to help your spring planting go smoothly…
Prepare your garden bed in advance, digging it over and breaking up the soil to a depth of 6 to 10 inches. If you have soil amendments to add, such as well composted leaves or manure, till them in. A soil test can tell you if you need to add anything else to your soil. If you're using a no-till method like lasagna gardening, this might be a good time to top up with a nice layer of compost. I like to dig up my garden a couple of weeks before planting out. Any weed seeds that come to the surface and germinate can be hoed up without disrupting my little plants.
Harden off your seedlings by exposing them gradually to outside conditions. Don't skip over this step! Tender indoor seedlings planted directly out into the garden can get shocked enough to keel over and die. This also applies to seedlings and plants bought at a garden center, if they've been sheltered. See last week's article, "Seed Starting 101: Hardening Off" for more information.
Think about irrigation. It's much easier to lay soaker hoses across your garden bed now, with no plants to worry about. A soaker hose will water plants for a foot or two out from each side. You can put together a whole system of drip irrigation and soaker hoses and connect it to a set of programmable, electronically controlled valves. Or you can simply lay the soaker hose along your garden bed and connect your garden hose to one end as needed. Quick-connect valves on the ends of your soaker hoses and on your garden hose make watering a snap.
Watch the weather. An overcast day is perfect for planting out, because seedlings will have a chance to adjust to their new spot before dealing with the bright sun. Similarly, I like to plant out in the evening if I know the night will be warm. The seedlings can recover from transplanting during the night and be ready for their first full sun day in the garden.
Plant deeply! With tomato transplants, burying part of the stem when you plant them into the garden will get them off to a great start. New roots will grow all along the buried part of the stem. If I have a tall tomato seedling, I don't dig a 12 inch deep hole. That's too much work, and the soil that far down will still be colder than the roots would like. Instead, I dig a sloping trench and place the tomato seedling sideways at an angle, with the rootball at the lowest point. At least one set of leaves and a bit of stem should stick up above the soil surface. Any plant that can be propagated from cuttings seems likely to grow more roots by burying part of its stem at planting time.
But not too deeply. Some plants, like peppers, don't seem to be harmed by planting them a little lower than they were growing in their pot, whether or not more roots grow. Plants that have a definite crown, however, should be planted with the crown at or above the level of the soil. A "crown" is low central stem with a bunch of leaves radiating out from it. Salvias and strawberry plants, for example, have definite crowns. Don't bury the crown, or the plant may die.
Be nice to the roots. With plastic pots, you can generally push up the bottom of the pot or squeeze the sides a little to release the rootball. Be gentle with the stem, and try not to yank on it. If the plant looks rootbound, with roots circling around the rootball, just tickle the roots with your fingers a little to loosen them up. You may need to break out the sides of the rootball just a little, too, so the roots "know" they're no longer confined to the shape of the pot.
If your seedlings are in peat pots, bury the rim of the pot completely. Otherwise, water will wick away from the roots and evaporate into the air. Also, you may wish to tear away some of the pot. Many plants seem to have a hard time pushing their roots through peat pots. I'm trying a new product this year, CowPotsTM, which are said to break down more quickly so that this isn't a problem.
Time release fertilizers (such as DynamiteTM or OsmocoteTM) and polymer moisture crystals can be added as you're planting. I mix a big pinch of each into the planting hole, following label directions.
Water in the plants after transplanting. This will settle the soil around the roots. Watering with compost tea or a little water-soluble fertilizer gives new transplants a nice pick-me-up.
Plan ahead. Those little transplants will grow faster than you think! Now is a good time to put in stakes next to tomato plants, cages over pepper plants, and trellises for cucumbers and other vines. If you didn't add soaker hoses or drip irrigation to your garden earlier, reconsider. Watering your garden will take up less water and less of your time with a simple irrigation system in place.
You may have started your seeds indoors under lights, or winter sowed, or bought seedlings at a local garden center. But any way you look at it, your seedlings are an investment in a beautiful, bountiful garden this summer. When you plant them out, you want to give them every advantage. With the above tips, they'll get a good start, and you'll be well on your way to a wonderful garden!
See my other articles on Seed Starting, Winter Sowing, and Preventing Damping-off for more information on growing from seed. Also, take a look at Paul Rodman's article, "Watering Wisely" for more information on irrigation systems.
Photos by Jill M. Nicolaus.
About Jill M. Nicolaus
Better known as "Critter" on DG, Jill gardens in Frederick, MD. This week, I've been cutting lavender, putting up pluots (plum-apricot fruits), and pulling weeds (always, LOL). I love being outside in the cooler morning -- coffee cup in one hand, watering hose in the other -- watching the birds and butterflies among the flowers.(Images in my articles are from my photos, unless otherwise credited.)
Posted by patrice10 (from Aquebogue, NY) on April 21, 2008 at 4:37 PM:
I have tilled the fall leaves into the soil in veggie garden, and then Iput down about two-three inches of straw on top. Having used the straw last season, i was happy with how it kept the weeds at bay. When I transplant my new seedlings that I've started, I only hope the straw somehow won't take away from their growth.
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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on April 21, 2008 at 6:17 PM:
That's a great idea! I've used grass on the veggie garden (same idea, only it starts out green & fresh)... I just till it in the following year, and that seems to be fine. I think if you till in a lot of noncomposted stuff, you might have to add a little extra nitrogen (as organics initially decompose, they can actually decrease the available nitrogen), but that straw from last year should be partly broken down by now and should be no big deal.
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Posted by patrice10 (from Aquebogue, NY) on May 19, 2008 at 11:22 AM:
I read an article on upside planting of tomatoes in a spackle bucket. how do I find the article on your site?
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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on May 19, 2008 at 12:48 PM:
try the "search forums" feature, looking for "upside down tomatoes" or "topsy turvy planter"... you might have to add a hyphen for upside-down or topsy-turvy; not sure.
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Subject: Another Graduating Class, Thanks!
Posted by MistyPetals (from North Augusta, SC) on April 17, 2008 at 4:26 PM:
Some of us, like myself, just spent the winter months going through Seed Starting 101. Now that the babies are going outdoors I feel like a member of the graduating class.
Seed Starting 101 Class, when Dave hands you the diploma, exit the stage, you will have time for pictures later. (LOL)
Graduation Music:
Here Comes the Sun.
The Sun Will Come Out tomorow
Touch Me in the Morning
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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on April 17, 2008 at 5:36 PM:
LOL!
Congratulations to all the 2008 graduates of Seed Starting 101.
I hope your gardens do beautifully for you this year -- and yes, I want to see photos!
:-)
More theme music: Grow For Me (from Little Shop of Horrors)
Posted by MistyPetals (from North Augusta, SC) on April 20, 2008 at 9:59 PM:
Ya just gotta love them lyrics. LOL The song title says it all, Critter. Grow for Me. Talk About the Gardener's Billboard, Top 10. I luv it.
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Subject: As always...
Posted by Chantell (from Middle of, VA) on April 17, 2008 at 12:00 PM:
Excellent job, Jill...big ole thank you from the seed newbie!!
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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on April 17, 2008 at 1:22 PM:
You're welcome! I hope other people will share their favorite planting-out tips, also... I'm still learning, too! :-)
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Posted by tcs1366 (from Itasca, IL) on April 21, 2008 at 10:20 AM:
Jill -- thanks for the great article.
with the weather being so nice lately.. i am soooo ready to get planting... though it still may be too soon for the tender annuals. [I've got really tall MG's and Hyacinth Beans]
i've got many of my seedlings outside on the front porch after reading last weeks article about hardening off.
Terese
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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on April 21, 2008 at 10:42 AM:
Porches are great sheltered spots for hardening off seedlings! You're right though, I think, about it being too soon to plant out the tender ones -- if you do, you'll end up worrying about the weather forecast and running out to place jugs of warm water around the plants and to cover them with sheets, blankets, whatever you can find in your linen cupboard... been there, done that! LOL
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Posted by Chantell (from Middle of, VA) on April 21, 2008 at 10:51 AM:
Yes I put all mine on the covered shelving unit on my deck last week (faces north)...so far so good - everyone's still "happy." Only concern is when I see forecast for nite temps below 50. Course I'll also have to start moving it toward back of deck bit by bit (more sun exposure).
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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on April 21, 2008 at 10:57 AM:
The more slowly you can let them adapt, the better, I think. I'm glad you're taking the "bit by bit" approach. I was a little concerned about even including a 3 day quickie method in the article on hardening off, although the point I was trying to make was that even a little hardening off is better than none at all. (Plus, it's easier to explain a 3 day schedule and then suggest stretching out the process rather than to go over a 10 day hardening off schedule in detail.)
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Posted by Chantell (from Middle of, VA) on April 21, 2008 at 11:09 AM:
I'm following your advice but doing the extended version. I'm in no rush b/c I started late and mine aren't nearly ready to go in the ground any who. On warmer days I'll unzip or remove the cover...keep that air circulating.
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Posted by tcs1366 (from Itasca, IL) on April 21, 2008 at 11:23 AM:
our over night lows have been mid-40's and so far i've only had 1 MG leaf shrivel up ... but i do think that was due to the high winds one day, as this morning, all the plants seemed fine. It's Eastern Exp .. so they are still getting quite a bit of sun, til roughly 1pm-ish. A few days ago, when the winds were whipping out of the north, i put them all on the south side, where i was thinking they'd get too much sun.... but did fine.
I figure, if they keel over... i still have lots of seeds... the only ones i'm being very careful with are my Heirloom 'Maters.
I've only got 3 plants going so far ... and do not want to lose any of them. I'm on my 3rd seed of Aunt Ginnys Purple... the first 2 died.
Maybe I'll have to pick up one of those zip-green houses for next season. Sounds like a good idea ,,, and since we move the BBQ grill into the sunroom [for winter storage] I have a place for the zip-room.
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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on April 21, 2008 at 12:24 PM:
Have fun with your tomatoes this summer! I like to have a bunch of different varieties, because there are always some that do better than others -- and which ones do best tends to vary from year to year. there are a couple of varieties i've just had back luck with as seedlings, so I still haven't been able to try them in the garden -- so I feel your frustration with your Aunt Ginny's Purple seedlings! I'll keep my fingers crossed for your little survivor. :-)
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Subject: Nifty, nifty ...
Posted by greenthumb_NC (from Charlotte, NC) on April 17, 2008 at 7:36 AM:
I love your little article. It's first class. The photos are nifty too. Very informative. 8-)
Karin ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Posted by critterologist (from Frederick, MD) on April 17, 2008 at 8:35 AM:
Thanks! The pansies look very cute by my front stoop this morning... I've since planted a miniature rhododendron right behind them, and it's blooming too. :-)
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Posted by cathy4 (from St. Louis County, MO) on April 17, 2008 at 9:21 AM:
Perfect timing, some of my plants under lights need to head outside, now I'll do it right! Thanks!
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Posted by planolinda (from Plano, TX) on April 17, 2008 at 6:02 PM:
now i know what i did wrong in my garden--i put all my plants from lowes directly out in the sun and they are having a hard time--hope they make it! now that i read your article i will ease the next ones out gradually
Prepare your garden bed in advance, digging it over and breaking up the soil to a depth of 6 to 10 inches. If you have soil amendments to add, such as well composted leaves or manure, till them in. A soil test can tell you if you need to add anything else to your soil. If you're using a no-till method like lasagna gardening, this might be a good time to top up with a nice layer of compost. I like to dig up my garden a couple of weeks before planting out. Any weed seeds that come to the surface and germinate can be hoed up without disrupting my little plants.
