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Have you ever wondered what it would be like to find yourself in the midst of a tropical rain forest? Smitten as I am with tropical flora, I certainly have. Yes, I’ve seen rain forests on TV, and I even have a mini one on the second floor of our home,* but I wanted to experience the real thing.
Opportunity knocked one autumn day when my wife, Wilma, discovered a travel brochure in our mailbox.It read:"Tour Costa Rica and cruise through the Panama Canal."Perfect.Wilma had always dreamed of sailing through the Canal, and I of wandering through a Costa Rican rain forest.Even though we had not put money aside for such a trip, we felt that it would be well worth the strain on our budget.
We weren't disappointed.Our accommodations in San Jose, Costa Rica's capitol city, were excellent.The grounds were beautifully landscaped and the service was impeccable.This was to be our home base as we explored the city and the surrounding states of Cartago, San Jose, and Puntarenas.
The most memorable experience for me, rivaling even the passage through the Panama Canal, was our trip to a rain forest.As it turned out, half the fun was getting there.We drove through misty, foggy cloud forests that seldom see the sun and then to lower elevations where we stopped at an enchanting butterfly farm.Here the air was filled with a kaleidoscope of colors-on-the-wing and the intoxicating fragrance of Butterfly Ginger (Hedychium coronarium) in bloom.An occasional butterfly would land on our heads and shoulders or would climb obligingly onto our fingers when coaxed a bit.
Much to our surprise and delight, we learned that butterfly farming is a growing industry in Costa Rica.It doesn't require much land, and there is a strong foreign market for the butterfly chrysalis.Poor farmers who in the past had barely eked out a living on a few acres of land are now raising butterflies and living comfortably.
Then it was on to the highlight of the day.The road grew ever narrower and turned to bumpy rock instead of the smooth pavement to which we had become accustomed.As we bounced around a bend in the road, a small area of jungle opened up to reveal what looked more like an outpost than a tourist mecca.There was a very small shop where tickets for the tour were available, along with a few trinkets and light refreshment.Alongside the shop was the cableway that would take us on an unforgettable trip into the rain forest canopy.Each gondola held five or six persons along with a guide.
As we began our assent, I marveled at the fact that the cable system made absolutely no noise.The only sounds we heard were the occasional calls from toucans and warblers, the soft trickle of raindrops as they fell from leaf to leaf on their vertical journey to the ground, and the distant rush of a small stream.So awed were we that everyone automatically spoke in hushed whispers.We started out on the forest floor, where the vegetation was appropriately lush, punctuated by a burst of bright red from the occasional Heliconia.As we drifted slowly into the mid-level, the exuberant vegetation that had enveloped our gondola gave way to a more open setting where epiphytes and orchids held sway in the branches of the taller trees.Here, too, the eye could follow the flattened Monkey Ladder vines (Bauhinia glabra) as they undulated and swirled their way from the ground to the brighter light of the canopy.
The canopy itself was dominated by the tops of Broccoli Trees (Ceiba pentandra).I was also able to see many of Costa Rica's 2,000-plus Bromeliad species from our canopy vantage point, along with more orchids.Since it was late morning, most of the forest animals were napping.We did catch sight of a sloth snoozing in a sunny treetop during a pause in the intermittent rain (see arrow in center of photo below).It was well camouflaged and required a discerning eye to discover it in its leafy bed.
As we returned to the platform from which we launched our gondola, we were amazed that we had been on the tramway for almost 90 minutes.Time seemed to stand still and a pleasant euphoria had crept over us on our journey.We mentioned this to our guide, who explained that this particular region of the rain forest had an oxygen level 25% higher than normal air.We were, he exclaimed, on an oxygen high!
Back on terra firma, we followed our guide into the jungle on foot to get a closer view of the forest floor.We came upon some Torch Ginger (Alpinia spp.) in bloom in a clearing and some more Heliconia among the dense greenery we had observed earlier from our gondola.We even happened upon an anteater who wasted no time scurrying into the undergrowth, away from the humans who were intruding on his territory.
We returned from our hike to a wonderful luncheon, served right in the middle of the jungle.Some of the food was new to us, but what must have really impressed us was a drink called soursop.Among all the new foods we tasted, it was the only one whose name we could remember!Contrary to its name it was sweet, smooth, and quite tasty.
With lovely memories of the day's events tucked away in our heads and recorded in my wife's journal, we boarded the bus back to our hotel and looked forward to the promise of new adventures in the days to come.
Have you ever experienced a rain forest?Even if you haven't, your comments and questions are welcome in the space provided below.I'd love to hear from you.
**Two owl butterfiles made a unique spectacle (pun intended) in a recent weekly "You Supply the caption" feature.
About Larry Rettig
An enthusiastic gardener for over 50 years, my first plant was a potted Meyer Lemon tree ordered from a comic book ad at age 15. I still have it, and it’s still bearing lemons! My wife and I garden on 3/4 of an acre, both flowers and vegetables. Although our garden is private, it's listed with the Smithsonian Institution as a national heritage garden and is on the National Register of Historic Places. We garden organically and no-till. Our vegetable garden contains a seed bank of vegetables brought to this country from Germany in the mid-1800s. An article on our gardens appears in the Spring 2008 issue of Country Gardens magazine. For more info: http://davesgarden.com/community/blogs/m/LarryR/. Photos that appear in my articles without credit are my own.
Posted by wannadanc (from Olympia, WA) on April 8, 2008 at 10:30 PM:
Thank you SO much for a reminder of many aspects of a wonderful trip!!!!!!!!!! Our canopy trek was on foot on suspended walkways - and what grandeur all of that provided.
For me the defining moment was holding a 3 toed sloth!!! Buttercup was one of any number of rescued sloths at a refuge. (see the photo)
Another lasting effect of the Costa Rica visit was sleeping in a screened enclosure on stilts in the jungle. At 5 AM each morning, the howler monkeys in the canopy began a chorus that sounded for all the world like jaguars. I came home from that and built an outdoor sleeping enclosure - screens 360 degrees around - and even though we have no howler monkeys, it is like being next to heaven.
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Posted by LarryR (from South Amana, IA) on April 8, 2008 at 11:53 PM:
Wannadanc, what a sweet pic! I've heard about the screened enclosures since our return. If I had known about them before our voyage, I would certainly have wanted to do that! Maybe there'll be a next time. Thanks for sharing your story. Best--Larry
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Posted by wannadanc (from Olympia, WA) on April 9, 2008 at 6:56 PM:
I think the place we stayed was called "Almonds and Coral" - it was on the east coast - shoreline ........and just so much wonderful fun. Thank you again for your story.
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Subject: Fascinating
Posted by doccat5 (from Fredericksburg, VA) on April 8, 2008 at 9:15 AM:
WOW, this is a really above the ordinary article, LarryR. Great information and the pictures are stunning. Thanks for sharing!!
doc
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Posted by LarryR (from South Amana, IA) on April 8, 2008 at 5:16 PM:
Thanks, Catherine. :-) I'll send you a D-mail. Larry
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Posted by Sharran (from Calvert City, KY) on April 9, 2008 at 12:14 AM:
What an incredible journey, Larry. Thank you for taking us along with you.
Great article.
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Posted by LarryR (from South Amana, IA) on April 9, 2008 at 1:55 PM:
Many thanks, Sharran. Glad you enjoyed it :-)
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Subject: My gosh, another place not to miss!
Posted by jjacques (from LE TAMPON
(Reunion (French))) on April 8, 2008 at 4:41 AM:
Hello there
I have not been to Costa-Rica but I strolled the forests in Southern Mexico, Guatemala and Belize, quite impressive. Also had the chance to wander in some of the remnants of jungle in Malaysia and of course a few times in nearby Madagascar. It is always such a wonderful feeling to be in those rain forests, life is all over the place. Did you do any night watching or hiking? It is fabulous to see all the nocturnal animals and insects too.
I enjoyed your article.
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Posted by carrielamont (from Milton, MA) on April 8, 2008 at 7:52 AM:
Thank you, Larry, I've been looking forward to this article and it was wonderful. I've been to the sub-tropical rain forest on St. Croix, but without 4WD, so we had to turn back. I hope we get a chance to try your trip some day!! I'm buying lottery tickets... xx, Carrie
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Posted by Dutchlady1 (from Naples, FL) on April 8, 2008 at 5:23 PM:
Oh this article definitely makes me want to go!
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Posted by LarryR (from South Amana, IA) on April 8, 2008 at 5:29 PM:
Thank you all for your kind comments. I find this kind of garden writing (as opposed to writing for a newspaper or magazine) very satisfying. Not only is the feedback virtually instant, I can also converse easily and instantaneously with my readers. Happy spring and happy gardening!
Larry
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Subject: Been there, didn't do that!
Posted by jlp222 (from Hammond, LA) on April 8, 2008 at 2:27 AM:
I was way too scared to do the zip line thing.
We went in '05 on our honeymoon. We flew into San Jose, took a bus/boat ride to Tortugero, then an airplane ride back to San Jose (the single scariest expereince of my life). From there we took a bus to Arenal, then another bus to Monteverde. Last was yet another bus ride to Manuel Antonio where I left my heart.
We went back in '06, flying into San Jose, "bussing" it to Manuel Antonio and then flying back.
If anyone EVER gets the chance to go, by all means do it. I was not into gardening and plants like I am now, but if I had been I would not have been able to leave. There were passifloras growing like weeds as well as gingers and bromeliads, and well, anything you can imagine! I will have to scan some of my pictures since I used my 35mm on that trip. (Which a monkey broke in a national park). We even got to see the "Elusive Quetzal!" I guess I need to write my own article!
Larry, thank you for the article. I don't need much prodding to start missing Costa Rica all over again. We went in late May for 2 years and I am getting the feeling we will be back soon.
Jennifer
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Posted by KaperC (from No. San Diego Co., CA) on April 8, 2008 at 2:22 PM:
Jennifer, I can't agree with you more. CR is a most wonderful place to visit. We spent 11 days under touring with private guides (no, it did not break the bank and we are not rich!) to various parts of the country, including Monteverde and a resort on the Caribbean coast. Small planes, oh yes, been there and done that - it was great. The "airport" at the Caribbean side was an orange cone at the end of the runway and a thatched umbrella. Then we went to the waterway's edge and called across for the boat from the resort. I'm sure before we arrived someone was yelling, "the plane, the plane." LOL
You can choose your venue. Orchids, rain forest, wetlands, beautiful beaches, white water rafting, volcanoes, 'regular' hotels or eco-resorts (our choice). Fancy or plain as you'd like.
One of the best things about Costa Rica is the people. Smart, polite, but proud of their country. We were gently encouraged to try to the language by our guides, mostly university students or professionals. Our favorite guide had one degree and was working on another.
Favorite drink? A concoction made up by the bartender at Monteverde with guanabana and no alcohol. Yum. Also, the excellent coffee. GO!
Kathleen
Got so carried away I forgot to thank Larry for his article! At the time we were there, the canopy tours were not recommended for safety reasons, so I enjoyed your description. I would love to go back and try it.
This message was edited Apr 8, 2008 11:24 AM
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Posted by Lenjo (from Mount Angel, OR) on April 8, 2008 at 3:06 PM:
Wow, you all have me drooling and wishing for a trip to Costa Rica. My brother in law returns from there tomorrow. Now I am really anxious to hear of his adventures and see pictures.
Great article, Larry, by the way how big is that lemon tree by now?
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Posted by girlgroupgirl (from Atlanta, GA) on April 8, 2008 at 3:11 PM:
I was in Costa Rica several years ago, and we were in a part of the country that was quite different than what you describe and picture. It was a poor area, and the vegetation and rain forest was partially scalped. That in itself was very interesting. The people there were fantastic!
Super article!!
GGG
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Posted by jlp222 (from Hammond, LA) on April 8, 2008 at 9:10 PM:
kaperc, I understand about the airport, that is why I was so traumatized. The "airport" was an abandoned concrete shell of a building. The airplane arrived and it was announced that we would be flying with a pilot and a "student driver". They fueled the plane with a wheelbarrow full of gas.
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Posted by KaperC (from No. San Diego Co., CA) on April 8, 2008 at 11:59 PM:
Yep, I know what you mean. We had to give the pilot our weights so he could add them all up before we were OK'd to leave. lol
That's what was nice about buying a packaged trip. The tour company took our luggage to the next destination while we carried one little bag on that leg of the trip.
Oh, and I forgot until I looked at the photo - we had no copilot! Darn, I can't attach the photo. I could do nothing but laugh. I have not traveled that much, but have managed a few small planes. There was one in Tahiti where the locals boarded with small livestock.
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Posted by LarryR (from South Amana, IA) on April 9, 2008 at 12:16 AM:
Thanks, everyone, for sharing your stories and for your kind comments.
Lenjo: The lemon tree is actually quite small for its age, about four feet tall. My parents cared for it while I was in college, but my father finally had enough. During one of his weekly phone calls from Iowa after we had moved to Alabama, he announced that he was not carrying that #### lemon tree into the house for one more damn winter. I convinced him to bring it with him when he and Mom came down for a visit during the fall. It arrived in a plastic bag, bareroot and a stump of a trunk about three inches long. I potted it up and, much to my delight, it made an amazing recovery! It has also been pruned heavily several times when it was infested with scaly aphids. Despite these setbacks it continues to produce blossoms and fruit all year, often both at the same time. I do have to hand-pollinate the blossoms, since there are no insects in the basement, where it lives contentedly under a single fluorescent grow-light fixture.
jlp222: Yikes! I don't blame you for being traumatized!
Larry
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Posted by Lenjo (from Mount Angel, OR) on April 9, 2008 at 12:24 AM:
Well, that is impressive about your lemon tree, you must have one great green thumb. Your garden looks wonderful in the photo.
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Posted by LarryR (from South Amana, IA) on April 9, 2008 at 1:04 PM:
Many thanks :-) I'll send you a D-mail with some photos. I just took them about five minutes ago. If you'd like to see more photos of our gardens, you can do so here: [HYPERLINK@davesgarden.com] Click on "LarryR's Garden Diary."
obligingly onto our fingers when coaxed a bit.
Then it was on to the highlight of the day.
the tour were available, along with a few trinkets and light refreshment.
mid-level, the exuberant vegetation that had enveloped our gondola gave way to 
a more open setting where epiphytes and orchids held sway in the branches of the taller trees.
The canopy itself was dominated by the tops of Broccoli Trees (
Back on terra firma, we followed our guide into the jungle on foot to get a closer view of the forest floor.
We returned from our hike to a wonderful luncheon, served right in the middle of the jungle.
