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This bug has been reportedly found in the following regions:
, (2 reports) Phoenix, Arizona Burbank, California El Granada, California Elk Grove, California Glendora, California Lake Elsinore, California Pomona, California Ramona, California Simi Valley, California Bartow, Florida Riverview, Florida Sarasota, Florida Thomasville, Georgia Laupahoehoe, Hawaii Lava Hot Springs, Idaho Moscow, Idaho Caseyville, Illinois Pearl, Illinois Rockford, Illinois Houma, Louisiana La Place, Louisiana Gardiner, Maine Harpswell, Maine Chesapeake Beach, Maryland Newton Center, Massachusetts Mount Morris, Michigan Baxter, Minnesota Brewster, Minnesota Buffalo, New York (2 reports) Canandaigua, New York Craryville, New York Dansville, New York Syracuse, New York Raleigh, North Carolina Chillicothe, Ohio Monmouth, Oregon Salem, Oregon Chadds Ford, Pennsylvania Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania Charleston, South Carolina Ladson, South Carolina Dallas, Texas Houston, Texas Mcallen, Texas Plano, Texas Weslaco, Texas Danville, Virginia Battle Ground, Washington Ferndale, Washington Graham, Washington Seattle, Washington Augusta, Wisconsin Casper, Wyoming
On Nov 9, 2006, VbSparky from Dansville, NY (Zone 6a) wrote:
very very bad bug , really hard to get rid of.
Barely visible to the unaided eye, mature two-spotted spider mites bear the characteristic black spots that are their namesake. Adults are straw yellow; nymphs are merely smaller versions of adults and range from pale yellow to pale yellow-green. Two-spotted spider mites reproduce extremely fast and can overwhelm plants by sheer numbers. Leaves of plants infested with spider mites show a distinct spotted effect called stippling. Spider mites cause stippling because they feed on plant cells one at a time. Like their name suggests, spider mites can spin webbing; heavily infested plants are typically covered with the fine webbing they use to disperse from old plants to fresh ones.
Spider mites are known for their ability to reproduce quickly. Adult two-spotted spider mite females can lay hundreds of eggs in a lifetime. Eggs hatch in 2-4 days; nymphs develop in 2-4 days. Adults can live up to 21 days and respond well to hot, dry environments.
you can have 1000's in a matter of days... application needs
to be done every 3 to 5 days to catch the new mites that
just hatched.
Predacious mites, such as Phytoseiulus persimilis, can be used to control two spotted mite. Under certain conditions this phytoseiid mite can completely eradicate twospotted mite from a greenhouse.
Alot of products can be use to control them. 3 of the best
that i have heard of on the internet is a product called
FLORAMITE .. very expensive .. 300 bucks a quart.
Floramite SC is a selective miticide that provides outstanding control of a variety of mite pests on greenhouse, shadehouse, nursery, field, landscape and interiorscape grown ornamentals. Floramite provides quick knockdown through contact activity and long lasting residual control of more than 21 days. Because of its unique mode of action and selective nature, Floramite is easy on predacious mites and beneficial insects, making it ideal for resistance management programs. Floramite controls Two-spotted mite, Pacific mites, Strawberry mites, European Mites, Cyclamen Mites, Citrus Red mites, Southern red mites and Spruce spider mites.
another product is called Avid and Stirrup M
Avid $140.00 per 8 oz.
The most effective eradicant for adult red spider and two-spotted mites. Avid contains abamectin, a naturally derived compound that penetrates leaf tissue to form a reservoir of active ingredient that works long and hard. Won't mar the beauty of flowers or foliage plants. Prevents infestations when used regularly. Eradicates all generations of mites when used three times, three days apart. Works great with the pheremone, Stirrup M Rate: 1/4 teaspoon per gallon.
Stirrup M $25.00 per 8oz
This extremely effective pheremone is a sexual attractant for red spider and two-spotted mites. Added to your miticide spray it attracts spider mites to the Avid or Kelthane, ensuring no escape for the little suckers! Rate: 1/4 teaspoon per gallon.
another good way to control them is to blast your plants with
a spray of water .. just like its raining outside ..
thanks for the rain , or we would be neck deep in spider mites
On Dec 25, 2007, GEORGE1948 from Harpswell, ME wrote:
I RAISE ORANGE TREES IN MAINE. THEY ARE IN BIG CONTAINERS.....ON THE DECK IN SUMMER AND IN MY SUNROOM IN WINTER. THIS IS THE WORSE YEAR FOR RED SPIDER MITES. THEY HAVE TAKEN OVER. I HAVE SPRAYED THEM WITH JUST ABOUT ALL THE COMMON SPRAYS..... AND I FEEL THEY ARE JUST BATHING IN IT. IS THERE SOME SORT OF ''BOMB'' THAT I CAN SET IN THE SUNROOM TO GET RID OF THE LITTLE BUGGERS?
On Jan 23, 2008, blomma from Casper, WY (Zone 4a) wrote:
This is one hard type of bug to get rid of. Once noticed, the infestation is far advanced. Here in zone 4, my roses tend to get infested. Last summer my houseplants became infested also.
The first alarm of an infestation is what looks like dust on the underside of leaves. If you blow lightly, the spidermite will move to reveal its presence. A closer look will reveal spider webs that look like strings in between where leaves are attached to the stem. On roses, they like the new growth.
I use a spray solution of Malathion insecticide on all my plants for all bugs. I add a small squirt of dishwashing soap to the mix so that the spray will adhere better to the plant. I spray every 2 or 3 days to catch the new hatchings.
For longer-lasting cure, I use a systemic insecticide in granules form for houseplants. I sprinkle the recommended dose on the soil, the scratch it in. Watering allows the insecticide to seep into the soil where the plant roots will absorb it. The bugs will literately eat to their demise. Systemic insecticide is great, but too expensive to use in the garden. Malathion is great also and much cheaper to use.
On Apr 28, 2008, chironex from N Las Vegas, NV (Zone 9a) wrote:
I received 2 plants from an ebay seller about a week ago and noticed the spider mites on them. I prefer to use organic controls and remembered that I had some Stylet Oil. This took one spraying mixed at 1 oz per gallon. The mites were gone in one day. Stylet oil is great for control of fungal diseases, Aphid-transmitted plant viruses and phytophagous insects and mites. It is made of refined white mineral oil. It also helps with powdery mildew. I used it in a vineyard with great success. I would sell this to you in smaller quantities, but it is EPA controlled, so repackaging it would require a license and MSDS, blah, blah, blah....sorry.
Available at http://www.stylet-oil.com from JMS Flower Farms in Vero Bch, FL. 866-778-9538. It comes in a huge container of 2.5 gallons.
Neem oil will also work, but it is more expensive.
On Jul 7, 2008, morrigan from Craryville, NY wrote:
as an avid gardener, especially of indoor plants since we in the northeast, I have found red spider mites to be ubiquitous. They are hard to get rid of, and tend to favor dry conditions and sunny locations. I have been trying a Neem Oil and soap mist to control them - I'll let you know how it goes. But they CAN spread like wildfire if you have them on a houseplant, isolate the plant and check any others that were in close proximity to the affected plant.
On Feb 28, 2009, Pugzley from Lake Elsinore, CA wrote:
The red spider mites started on my bush beans and zucchini first, they spread like crazy, I used everything from diatomeceous earth to sevin dust on them, sprayed red hot pepper and garlic and soap, nothing killed them. They were too far gone before I knew what they were. They wiped out all of my plants, but didn't seem to be as crazy about the tomatoes as the other veggies. I ended up yanking all my plants except eggplant, okra and tomatoes that were least affected by them. They are devils.
This year, I have started using Stylet Oil as a preventative on all plants I am growing outside. I believe if you allow them to get a foothold, even for a few days, you're doomed.
If you have spider mites, you must act pre-emptively against them, otherwise, you're going to have a huge problem controlling them.
I don't know yet how good the Stylet Oil is against, them. Hopefully it will work, but I am thinking it is going to have to be applied at least 2x a week to be effective. I had sprayed my roses 5 days ago on a Monday, by Saturday morning they were being attacked by rose aphids. I sprayed them again and it appears that the aphids are all dead after spraying.
Might even need to use this oil 3x a week. I don't know yet.
These creatures are an absolute pain in the ass to get rid of. I noticed they mostly go for new shoots and buds. Signs on your plant are stunted and damaged new leaves, with the other leaves of the plants drooping and getting spots .The webs are first noticeable in the bends of branches. Eggs are on the underside of leaves, tiny black spots.
My houseplants cought some last year, not sure HOW since I lived on the 5th floor flat of an apartment block in the middle of the city. They really like rose plants, which I had one of on my window sill. They then went to the Jalopeno pepper plant. I thought I'd gotten rid of them after having given the plants a thorough shower and spraying them with insecticide. Brought the plants back to my mother's house. Forgot to warn her about the chance of bugs, and she didn't keep an eye on the plants. Within a week or two the rose plants was COVERED in webs, and I mean completely and utterly covered. That went straight to the bin.
The mites then spread to all the plants in the house, I have no idea how they managed, since the two original infected plants had stayed in the same room all the time.
We tried various insecticides, but we found what actually worked best is daily sprayings of water on the affected plants, and a full out shower once a week (though be careful not to drown your plants if the pots don't have that draining hole in the bottom). Moisture controls these pests better than any of the insecticides we used.
Also wiping the underside of the leaves regularily with warm water helps, as it removes any eggs which may have remained there.
