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Hardiness: USDA Zone 6a: to -23.3 °C (-10 °F) USDA Zone 6b: to -20.5 °C (-5 °F) USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7 °C (0 °F) USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9 °C (5 °F) USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 °C (10 °F) USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 °C (15 °F) USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 °C (20 °F) USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 °C (25 °F) USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 °C (30 °F) USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 °C (35 °F)
Sun Exposure: Sun to Partial Shade
Danger: N/A
Bloom Color: Violet/Lavender
Bloom Time: Late Summer/Early Fall
Foliage: Grown for foliage Evergreen Dark/Black Smooth-Textured
Other details: Drought-tolerant; suitable for xeriscaping
Soil pH requirements: 4.5 or below (very acidic) 4.6 to 5.0 (highly acidic) 5.1 to 5.5 (strongly acidic) 5.6 to 6.0 (acidic)
Propagation Methods: By dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets) From seed; direct sow outdoors in fall From seed; winter sow in vented containers, coldframe or unheated greenhouse From seed; stratify if sowing indoors
Seed Collecting: Allow seedheads to dry on plants; remove and collect seeds Seed does not store well; sow as soon as possible
On Mar 12, 2008, KaylyRed from Watertown, WI (Zone 5a) wrote:
For such a low-maintenance plant, you really can't go wrong with liriope. I'm a novice gardener and have had great success with it--it really is goof-proof! I use this plant as a combination ground cover and low-growing ornamental grass. The lavender flower spikes are just a bonus.
Mine does quite well with morning sun and afternoon shade.
On Aug 12, 2005, CaptMicha from Brookeville, MD (Zone 7a) wrote:
Fast to flower. Plants are a bit vigourous, growing through my weed paper. Easy to seperate though.
Enjoy full sun, drought tolerant and require little to no care. Makes shiny black berries after flower, which is in the spring and again in late summer.
On Nov 30, 2004, lmelling from Ithaca, NY (Zone 5b) wrote:
I tried planting Liriope here in zone 5b, back in 1998 - even though it was only supposed to be hardy through zone 6. It lived over two very mild winters here with heavy snow cover, but the first really cold winter killed it off.
On Aug 30, 2004, lego_brickster from Lawrenceville, PA (Zone 5b) wrote:
We've had great success with the Big Blue variety here in Zone 5.
We have four big clumps which have overwintered for the last three years for us.
Constant winter snow cover is probably responsible for it's durability here. If uncovered from the snow, it's still lush and green, but once the snow fades and the dry March winds come in, it immediately withers and fades, and looks horrible for about two months. Then it comes out strong again, with it's normal lush appearance. It has bloomed for us every year.
Several landscapers have shown surprise that we grow Liriope in Z5. Most claim that it just can't be done. :-)
I love liriope and use it for borders now. I have it in full sun in NE Georgia. It gets really hot and humid and does great. I want to have my entire front and/or backyard be all liriope. Only have to mow it once a year in February. Drought resistant. Has anyone planted a really large area with nothing but liriope?
Also, how well does it grow from seed?
Do you grow it like fescue?
I recently purchased 10, 3" pots of liriope from WalMart. All were extremely root bound. I had a large area to cover as a border. My plans were to subdivide & space every 6-8". These plants are very forgiving. I cut, yanked & twisted every one of these pots to subdivide. None suffered from shock -- not even one leaf died! Although they were a big mess in the beginning (I had to do a massive clean up). All are very happy!
YardKat, Gillett, TX
On Oct 2, 2003, suncatcheracres from Old Town, FL wrote:
Southern Living Garden Book lists ten different varieties of Liriope muscari, which is a clumper, plus two varieties of L. spicata, a spreader, and two more varieties of Mondo grass (Ophiopogon), a smaller version of Liriope. I have seen this plant all of my life--in my Grandparent's yards, my Aunts, Uncles, and Cousin's yards--and in my Parent's various yards over the years. And now in my yards through the years here in the Southeastern US.
I have seen statements that this plant is vastly overused as a border plant, but I think it is the perfect border plant. It can be mowed under, or over in the early Spring, and its attractive, evergreen, gently arching, dark green blades definitely announce the line between the lawn or driveway and the flower border. I personally like the white flowered type because of their greater contrast, especially when the flowers grow low in the plant. Some of the purple-lavender flowers are harder to see against the dark foliage.
I agree that the variegated types are not as vigorous. I personally prefer L. spicata because it readily spreads, and by digging up the little "babies" and transplanting them you can easily create new borders.
In the Fall I have created new borders of L. muscari by picking off all of the dark berries and planting them where I want a border to grow. The following Spring I had many small blades sticking up an inch or two, but this plant is a slow grower, and it will take a few years for a border to really look good from seed. However, it is certainly much cheaper to start a long border from seed than from bought plants.
On Oct 1, 2003, TerriFlorida from Plant City, FL wrote:
When I started gardening, I started evicting grass, and I did not understand the point of then cultivating grassy things. It took me some years, but I have gotten past my grass hating, grin. After the move of 30 miles, I inherited many clumps of liriope, and I have found it to be tough, forgiving stuff. I have divided 2' wide clumps but it is an adventure involving shovel and much stomping and pulling apart. The type I have blooms low, and the leaves are more than a foot long so these are at least 18" tall. The ones I have divided do very little pouting before settling in. Undivided clumps can sit on the ground and await attention for a week, during the rainy season. It really is an impressive plant. No wonder we see them everywhere here.
On Feb 8, 2003, Greenknee from Chantilly, VA (Zone 6b) wrote:
A very tough competitor. I have a large bed under dense maple trees, has thickened over the years. Mow to ground every Feb. before the interplanted daffodils start to emerge. The solid green, fertile variety is the most vigorous competitor, the variegated ones can't compete as well. I grow from seed and divisions.
On Aug 31, 2001, Terry from Murfreesboro, TN (Zone 7a) wrote:
Low-maintenance, rugged plant often found as edging along beds and borders. In early spring, dead leaves should be pruned back and the plant sidedressed with fertilizer.
Regional...
This plant has been said to grow in the following regions:
Birmingham, Alabama Tempe, Arizona Clovis, California Elk Grove, California Knights Landing, California Oakland, California Auburndale, Florida Bartow, Florida Big Pine Key, Florida Hollywood, Florida Homosassa, Florida Jacksonville, Florida Lutz, Florida Plant City, Florida Sebring, Florida Albany, Georgia Alpharetta, Georgia Atlanta, Georgia Braselton, Georgia Dacula, Georgia Lawrenceville, Georgia Newburgh, Indiana Benton, Kentucky Ewing, Kentucky Louisville, Kentucky Kenner, Louisiana New Iberia, Louisiana Scott, Louisiana Brookeville, Maryland Norton, Massachusetts Ocean Springs, Mississippi Saucier, Mississippi Bridgeton, Missouri Piedmont, Missouri Trenton, New Jersey Matthews, North Carolina Raeford, North Carolina Dayton, Ohio Hulbert, Oklahoma Salina, Oklahoma Lawrenceville, Pennsylvania Schwenksville, Pennsylvania Charleston, South Carolina Clarksville, Tennessee Murfreesboro, Tennessee Oak Ridge, Tennessee Alice, Texas Alvin, Texas Bryan, Texas Corpus Christi, Texas Fort Worth, Texas Georgetown, Texas Irving, Texas Missouri City, Texas Odessa, Texas San Antonio, Texas Spring, Texas Sugar Land, Texas Danese, West Virginia Watertown, Wisconsin