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Hardiness: USDA Zone 6a: to -23.3 °C (-10 °F) USDA Zone 6b: to -20.5 °C (-5 °F) USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7 °C (0 °F) USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9 °C (5 °F) USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 °C (10 °F) USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 °C (15 °F) USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 °C (20 °F) USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 °C (25 °F)
Sun Exposure: Sun to Partial Shade
Danger: Parts of plant are poisonous if ingested
Bloom Color: Medium Blue
Bloom Time: Late Spring/Early Summer Mid Summer
Foliage: Deciduous
Other details: Average Water Needs; Water regularly; do not overwater
Soil pH requirements: 5.1 to 5.5 (strongly acidic) 5.6 to 6.0 (acidic) 6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic) 6.6 to 7.5 (neutral)
Propagation Methods: From softwood cuttings From semi-hardwood cuttings
Seed Collecting: N/A: plant does not set seed, flowers are sterile, or plants will not come true from seed
On Oct 11, 2008, jengarden from Excelsior, MN wrote:
I have had success in MN with 5 mature beautiful plants. They are quite large, approx. 4' high and bloom on old wood every year. The blooms are pink because I have not attempted to fertilize for the blue color. However, this zone requires that the plants are well mulched in winter. I cover the plants with straw and leaves (mostly maple and ash) all the way up to the top. They are located on the edge of my driveway so they also get covered with a good layer of snow from the clearing of the driveway which provides good insulation from our severe MN winters. I have not lost a plant in 10 years. They do tend to fade in the summer afternoon heat and sun, but perk up after sun moves away. This plant is well worth the extra care in winter and spring.
I was surprised to find this in a pot that I saved from the bulk trash pick up. It was in one of three huge pots. It looked pretty dead. I've never had a hydrangea before so I'm just gonna wing it and hope I get a deal out of it. I pruned it back a good deal because it was a mess, and added some acidic plant food. Funny enough I found a plant tag on one of the dead branches. Good thing or I might have just chucked the whole mess. And now I know what it is and how to prep it. Hopefully, I didn't prune it back too much to get a bloom this year.
On Oct 11, 2006, Rikkashay from West Portsmouth, OH (Zone 6a) wrote:
I have a Nikko Blue hydrangea and finally found a way to mulch it enough to get a minimal amount of blooms this year. I weaved what seemed to be dozens of pine boughs through the bare stems of the hydrangea last fall being careful of the flower buds forming and then added almost a bale of straw intermingled with the pine boughs and tucked the straw underneath it to the base of the plant. My bush is about 4' tall and 5" across. I had 9 blooms this year. However, I found another gardening website that shows a cage that you can construct and then fill with oak leaves or insulation materials that won't pack down. I think I might try that one, too. Until it all becomes a massive chore, I'll try anything to get more than just a few blooms.
On Jul 29, 2006, alddesigns from Saint Cloud, FL wrote:
I have four of this variety, two blue and two with more of a pinkish lavender cast. They aren't totally wild about the heat here, they get a bit droopy in the afternoon heat, but bounce back to normal after it cools a bit. They are beginning to settle in and seem to be satisfied with watering every other day.
On Jul 10, 2006, Leslie_Pz from Amherst, NH wrote:
This hydrangea is one of the happiest growers in my garden. Great new growth during the first year and very well established by Spring of third year.
This year however, we had the need to move it to another location where the plant receives morning light. Previously, the hydrangea received 4 hours of direct sunlight during the hottest time of the day and really caused the flowers to droop.
Wish our hydrangea and us luck with our new location!
On May 8, 2006, boneyween from Shawnee Mission, KS wrote:
In my experience, an important key to success with Nikko Blue is the location in which you plant it. I planted some on both the north and south sides of my house. The north side receives some sun until about noon, and the south side receives no sun, thanks to some very large trees. I expected they would do better on the south, due to the increased shade, but to my surprise, the north side plants were MUCH more successful. I believe this is due, in part, to the protection from the hot, summer winds that blow from the south.
Also, I believe that if you live in a cold winter area (I'm in zone 5b), it is important to provide winter protection by piling leaves over the plants in the fall. I first did this in the fall of 2004, and was shocked in the spring. The plants sprouted from the previous year's stems and went on to produce triple the number of blooms I had seen in the past.
On Dec 3, 2005, bigcityal from Menasha, WI (Zone 5a) wrote:
I really hate to say I don't like this plant, but if you are growing it in my zone5a it is an accent plant at best - not a specimen. It has way too much winter dieback and few flowers.
On Jul 8, 2005, sksimonsen from Omaha, NE (Zone 5a) wrote:
Planted in 2003 it did well from the nursery and in the following year; a late killing frost this spring killed back all the new buds on the old growth. But the plant survived and started to regrow from the base. By the end of June we had a half dozen large blooms. So it will definately bloom from new growth.
On Jun 10, 2005, cissyb from Woodbine, GA (Zone 8b) wrote:
I originally planted a couple of these plants under an oak tree. No matter what I did, I could not get it to thrive among the oak roots (as said earlier by another member). But this year, I built up a large raised bed around this oak tree, and this plant is just going wild, loads of beautiful blooms.
On Jun 9, 2005, 33libra from Winnipeg, MB (Zone 3a) wrote:
I am in Zone 3 and I planted Nikko Blue in 2002. Everyone told me it would never last in our climate but I planted it on my south side between my house and my neighbour's where I have a little microclimate. I love the blooms. I also have Pink Diamond, Unique, Annabelle and planted Endless Summer last summer.
On Apr 7, 2005, nikkoblue from Davidson, NC wrote:
I bought 2 Nikko Blue in 1 gal containers 10 years ago. They have bloomed more beautifully each year, and continually self layer and create more plants. I now have at least a dozen plants from the original 2, and have moved them around many times, and have never lost one to transplant shock. I have just started intentionally layering to increase the number of plants and will have several dozen soon! I have always been enchanted with these huge true blue blooms and delight all my neighbors with huge sprays of flowers as gifts thoughout the summer. The flowers last at least a week in a vase.
On Nov 22, 2004, lmelling from Ithaca, NY (Zone 5b) wrote:
I purchased a Nikko blue hydrangea and planted it in spring of 2002. Unfortunately, receiving bad information, I over-fertilized it with aluminum sulfate during the summer and almost killed it. It was touch and go for a while, but it survived. I mulched it well for winter 2002 but in 2003 did not have any blooms whatsoever. I thought perhaps it was still recuperating from the trauma the year before. It was suggested to me (fall 2003) to cover the bare stems with leaves over the winter in our area for extra protection (Zone 5b), so I did.
In late summer,2004 - just when I'd given up hope of it blooming - it suddenly sprung a small but very beautiful blue bloom - just one. Of course one of my friendly deer population ate it before it ripened to be cut. But I am hopeful that with good mulch, and a covering over the winter this year, I will have many blossoms next year.
Notes on winter covering: I was told originally to cover my hydrangea with fallen leaves in fall 2003. In addition to my bigger Nikko blue, I had also been given several 1-year-old plants by a friend that I also mulched this way. While this covering probably allowed the larger plant to come through one of our most severe winters on record (2003-2004) with prolonged temps of -25 to -20, the smaller plants died due to some type of cut worms eating right through the main stems. So I would not suggest this type of overall mulching for young plants. I am trying an alternative approach of using evergreen boughs placed among the bare hydrangea branches this winter instead of leaves. I had great success with placing the branches of our discarded Christmas tree over several small hydrangeas last year - they came through the severe winter wonderfully. If cut late enough (and with snow cover) the needles stay green most of the winter.
On Mar 7, 2004, aggiesmom from Wewoka, OK (Zone 7a) wrote:
Put out nursery stock in May 2003 and it bloomed well last summer. Seems to tolerate Oklahoma heat well as long as it is watered every other day unless there is rain.
On Oct 17, 2003, TerriFlorida from Plant City, FL wrote:
I was given H. m. 'Nikko Blue' as a rooted cutting many years ago from a distant friend. It flourished and gave me cuttings and bloomed well and grew to nearly 4' tall and wide. It responded well to cutting back (needed to keep a path clear) and definitely blooms on the same season's growth. In a place with short summers, I would advise pruning in fall.
When I moved, I brought a rooted cutting with me of course. It did not like being in lots of oak roots, but it sure likes the move to a more open soil!
On Jun 4, 2003, branka from Hobart, IN (Zone 5a) wrote:
I am in zone 5a and have grown Nikko Blue for over 20 years. It likes morning sun and profusely blooms big, beautiful, blue blossoms year after year. It does not tolerate late afternoon sun.
On Jan 16, 2003, lupinelover from Grove City, OH (Zone 6a) wrote:
This shrub, sold by the thousands in cold climate areas, is not reliably winter-hardy in zone 4 or 5. It blooms on old wood, and therefore will not flower in the North, even though it is root-hardy through zone 4.
Regional...
This plant has been said to grow in the following regions:
, (2 reports) Dothan, Alabama Gallion, Alabama Haleyville, Alabama San Diego, California Vallejo, California Ocean View, Delaware Alford, Florida Keystone Heights, Florida Plant City, Florida Riverview, Florida Saint Cloud, Florida West Palm Beach, Florida Atlanta, Georgia Cumming, Georgia Woodbine, Georgia Hampton, Illinois Nilwood, Illinois Westmont, Illinois Evansville, Indiana Shawnee Mission, Kansas Mechanicsville, Maryland Holliston, Massachusetts Mashpee, Massachusetts Mason, Michigan Roseville, Michigan Traverse City, Michigan Excelsior, Minnesota Jackson, Mississippi Fenton, Missouri New Madrid, Missouri Omaha, Nebraska Amherst, New Hampshire Ithaca, New York Davidson, North Carolina Raleigh, North Carolina (2 reports) Glouster, Ohio Mansfield, Ohio West Portsmouth, Ohio Oregon City, Oregon Salem, Oregon Mercer, Pennsylvania Conway, South Carolina Hixson, Tennessee Knoxville, Tennessee Manchester, Tennessee Broaddus, Texas Dallas, Texas Fort Worth, Texas Hurst, Texas Lumberton, Texas Nacogdoches, Texas Riverton, Utah Manassas, Virginia Virginia Beach, Virginia Kalama, Washington Vancouver, Washington Amma, West Virginia Bayfield, Wisconsin East Troy, Wisconsin