PlantFiles: Russell Lupin, Russell Lupine
Lupinus polyphyllus 'Russell'

I never had luck with starter plants from garden centers. But soaking the seeds before planting outdoors has resulted in beautiful spikes in virtually color but yellow. Starting seeds indoors and transplanting was a waste of time. The taproot grows too quickly to safely move to a permanent location. Covering the crown with soil or letting it sit in water also results in death. So now I tag (noting the color) one spike from each healthy plant, cut down the remaining spikes after they've finished blooming, and collect the seeds from my tagged spikes. I bag the seeds and refrigerate them until fall or spring. Oftentimes, depending on weather conditions, I get a second, smaller flush of blooms from plants that the earwigs and slugs haven't decimated. When planting in the fall, I'll simply drop seeds in small furrows where I want new or replacement plants. No soaking required if I time it just before it rains. In the early spring, I soak the seeds overnight and drop them into furrows. Frost doesn't seem to diminish their ability to germinate successfully. I rarely water full-grown plants. The deep taproot provides the moisture they need. Gorgeous, showy plants with very little care involved.

I notice that all of the successful plants that are discussed here are in climates cooler than zone 7.

I tried them several times -- both purchased plants and growing from seeds -- and, although I could get them started well enough in the spring, they did not survive the long, hot summers of the deep south.

A couple of comments are from people who suspected clay soil was the problem. Clay is common here, but my flower beds are full of composted organic matter and sand that break up the clay soil, and the bottom of the beds are angled for drainage. I've even tried them in terraced beds that are french-drained, So drainage and clay are not the problem.

I don't recommend anyone try this in climates warmer than zone 6.

One poster from the northwest seems to have had success. While winters in the northwest are as mild as ours are in the southeast, their summers are not as hot as ours, and they have more cloudy weather than we do.

Lupines will simply not take the heat or sun of the southeast in zone 7 or above.

I have not been able to germinate Texas native lupines, but I suspect they would be something of an alternative for hotter climates, although their form and height are quite different.

Russell Lupins are easy to grow and are subject to mildew after they go to seed. So, I wait until the seed pods are full and ripe cut the stems way back and let them grow up again. About 2 weeks later, I harvest the seed, refrigerate them and start them in cell packs the next February..

I grew mine from seed, started in spring, and by mid summer I had lush, flowering plants that drew immediate comment from my garden visitors. They then went to seed, fell victim to powdery mildew, went limp and looked like hell for the rest of the season. Pull them ruthlessly? Oh not yet. Not quite yet.

Nicked seeds germinate in just two days (but young seedlings are susceptible to Dumping-off).

These grew amazingly well here in Sitka, A cool summer temperate rainforest. I soaked the seeds over night and have had quite a show, flowering about 70 days after sowing. It has been dry this year compared to average but they got some water nearly ever day.

I've had seed grown lupines for several years now, and have yet to see even a hint of invasiveness. They seem to to best in areas with cooler summers. Mine have even survived clay soil in part shade, although the ones in clay soil on a hillside do better. They germinate in about 2 days if you nick and soak the seed. Very easy to grow.

I love lupines, but as others I have had a near impossible time getting them to grow. I started seed, I bought plants large and small...all of them croaked.

The only thing I found to work is to plant a healthy specimen in the fall, let it go dormant over winter and in the spring it will come back with a vengance. I now have a good set growing in part shade in horrible, clay dirt.

All my attempts failed (seeds, roots).
I think my climate is too hot for it.

Love the blue ones -- I did not do well with my first lupines but have several now ... they need to be very well drained, perhaps planted on a hillside or hill up the soil where you plant them ... same for delphiniums ... I also have both in part shade which helps in August heat and lack of rain ...

I planted one mature-looking specimen and the thing perished. Might be the clay soil.

Also Lupine densiflorus. My information says hardy in zones 4-8. Soaking seeds aids germination.

Have three varieties of 'Russell' all do extremly well in direct sun and in very hot summer conditions,Do not let them go to seed!

I 'brought back' some seeds of Lupine from Bailey Island, Maine from last summers vacation and planted them in Middletown, Delaware. The soil conditions are somewhat sandy, although with good humus mixed in and in full sun for most of the afternoon. (The seeds I planted in shaded conditons grew into plants but with much less flowers.)
The blue-flowered Maine lupine rewarded my efforts with a show of magnificence.
This is the best souvenir I could possibly want from Maine.

Several attempts at growing this plant in a part shade location failed. Some of the seedlings came back the second year, but none flowered. All were gone by year three. Clay soil may be the culprit. It seems there's a reason that plant stores around here don't carry potted starts.

My lupin is called 'Russell Red' but is more hot pink than red. When it blooms, it is absolutely breathtaking. Last year it did not bloom, unsure if it's a biennial or was hit by neighboring farmer's weed spray. I've allowed a few seedlings to grow to see what color they will be, it is noted as not true to parent in some sources. Seedlings should bloom next year.

2005 update - the seedlings bloomed this year and are identical in color to the parent.

Blooms during May and June. Dense spikes of pealike flowers rise above the foliage for a month or more. A wide color range including solids and bicolors, white, cream, pink, red, blue, yellow, orange, and purple. Foliage forms clumps of green silky-haired leaves that can be up to a foot across and are rounded in outline but cut into many fingerlike lobes. Full sun is best but tolerates some shade. Likes humus-rich, acid, well-drained soil and plentiful moisture. Taproots resent disturbance. Mulch to keep soil cool. Deadhead spent spikes to ensure strong plants and promote a possible second bloom. Short-lived perennial. Stem cuttings can be taken in the fall and overwintered in a cold frame.

Sow seeds thinly 1/4" deep in cold frame or shady border in early summer in rows 6" apart. Keep soil moist and protect from sun. Seedlings emerge in 14-28 days depending on soil and weather conditions. When large enough to handle, transplant seedlings 8" apart. In the fall, plant out in permanent sunny or partially shady location, spacing plants 2 feet apart. Transplant carefully so that long tap root is not broken. Cover with straw or evergreen branches in fall to protect in areas with severe winters. Can also be started indoors 6 to 8 weeks before last frost.