Hardiness: USDA Zone 6a: to -23.3 °C (-10 °F) USDA Zone 6b: to -20.5 °C (-5 °F) USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7 °C (0 °F) USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9 °C (5 °F) USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 °C (10 °F) USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 °C (15 °F) USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 °C (20 °F) USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 °C (25 °F) USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 °C (30 °F) USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 °C (35 °F)
On Sep 27, 2012, birder17 from Jackson, MO (Zone 6b) wrote:
This plant is one tough cookie/err, plant! I winter sowed it many years ago. I planted it in the right angle of two cement paths and three feet from a Kwanzan Cherry tree which I would consider difficult conditions. It is an easy care plant. I have given it no special treatment. It only received moisture when it rained. So, this plant is definitely drought tolerant.
It has developed into a beautiful 3 and half foot billowy mass of white flowers that seem to dance in the breeze. The flowering period lasts a long time-at least a month. The shape of the plant stays uniform-round airy shrub like. It's about 30 inches in diameter.
I really like the plant and would enjoy having more. Mine has never re-seeded-but has rather challenging conditions. I have not been able to find the seeds. I will try my hand at cuttings to over winter.
I am going to put another one with my Lychnis chalcedonica 'Maltese Cross'.
On Mar 29, 2009, CARPE_DIEM from Chicago, IL wrote:
A great plant, but typically roots turn to mush in Chicago's cold and wet winters. In such conditions, consider it as an annual, or possibly pot up roots for cool storage as is done with dahlia and canna tubers.
On Mar 18, 2009, kTalia from Littleton, CO (Zone 5a) wrote:
The second year I had this plant I couldn't believe the whirling flower stems reached easily over 3 feet! They were beautiful, until my dog took a nap on it one afternoon in September.
Anyway, I wanted to start some more for a new bed I was planning the following year and managed to collect a few seeds (I didn't know I could root cuttings). The previous year I tossed handfuls of the seeds I collected around in a few places, but none of the seeds germinated. Perhaps the conditions just weren't right for them, so I decided to try starting them inside this year.
I was a bit confused about the "seed" pods. It seemed to me the actually seed should be inside those pods, so I planted 12 of the pods and then stripped the pods off of 3. What a process! It took about 20 minutes of careful cutting, dropping the darn things, prying, dropping the darn thing, hunting for it... Hehe... anyway. I gave up after 3. After 3 weeks, none of the "pods" germinated (still waiting to see if they will). However, all 3 of the striped "seeds" have germinated (after about 6 days) and are about 1/2" high now.
All the information I was able to find online suggested that the original "pods" from the plant were the seeds and what should be planted. Maybe this is really the case, but I think for now on I'll strip that hard shell off. Better yet, maybe I'll just try cuttings next time! Hope this info helps.
On Apr 18, 2006, michaeladenner from Deland, FL wrote:
One of the few truly perennial herbaceous plants in our area -- came back better this year. Year one -- 1'x2', year two -- 2'x4'. Over the winter it loses its spikey flowers and looks like Stokes aster or just fat liriope. Then, early spring, it sends out long spikes of delicate-looking white and pink flowers that open slowly from the bottom up. Tends to bloom furiously, take a break, then bloom again. Survives the heat, drought and deluges that characterize our area, and makes a nice cut flower, too! Highly recommended and fairly easy to find.
On Jul 15, 2005, 1gardengram from Fayetteville, NC (Zone 8a) wrote:
Had them as seedlings last year in a small flower box. Set them out this spring along the front of my dahlia bed and they are glorious. Have been blooming since April nonstop. As one wand finishes blooming, I cut it back by about half and they just keep coming back. They are so pretty in the breeze. I didn't know I could start more from cuttings until I read these other notes, so will be doing that from now on! I have lots more places they could beautify.
I just purchased one of these plants at Lowe's 2 days ago. It has not been planted as yet but I noticed today that there are black spots on a lot of the leaves. These were not there when it was purchased. I may have to return the plant, unless I find out that this is normal.
I am impressed with this plant's ability to adapt and survive. Last year, I planted three in sandy, poor draining soil and they did great. I chose them for their low water needs. Then we received record breaking rains here In Southern California this winter and they were practically drowning. But they all survived and have new burgundy foliage growing on them. I'm so thankful! They are really beautiful to look at, especially on a windy day.
On Aug 7, 2004, saya from Heerlen Netherlands (Zone 8b) wrote:
It starts blooming mid summer here. It can take a lot of sun and drought that's sure. The stalks get at least 120 cm and tends to be floppy after a while. It goes on blooming in the top. That 's why I cut it down to 1/3 before it starts blooming and when the stalks get to high. The plant gets and stays more bushy that way. Easy. It gives lots of volentary seedlings, so I'm never without and I'm happy about that.
On Jun 10, 2004, BUFFY690 from Prosperity, SC (Zone 7b) wrote:
Came back strong with pretty burgandy foilage in the spring it is about a foot taller than it was last year. I plant to take some cutting this fall and overwinter them in a green house and have more to put out in the spring I love the way this plant just waves in the breeze over my pond. I also had asked someone the other day about seed collecting and she said that you have to be quick and watch the flower spikes for a little brown seeds to appear and catch it before it falls off. I am not sure how much time it actually takes to find these seeds because I was looking at some of the stems and saw nothing. I will look again from time to time for the chance of maybe starting one of these from seed. Also my plant in the picture has the small half of a tomato cage around the bottom to give it the vase look and keep the plant in an upward direction. It is just a little step to keep it more kept looking. I have seen a couple that their owners let them just spill where they will and though they are pretty I like to keep a little control with mine.
On Jan 5, 2003, lupinelover from Grove City, OH (Zone 6a) wrote:
'Whirling Butterflies' roots easily from cuttings; plants tend to bloom themselves to death every year, so new cuttings should be provided every year if no volunteers grow.
This plant has been said to grow in the following regions:
, Chandler, Arizona Concord, California Martinez, California Mountain View, California Santa Ana, California Denver, Colorado Highlands Ranch, Colorado Biscayne Park, Florida North De Land, Florida Oldsmar, Florida Palm Harbor, Florida Sebring, Florida Tampa, Florida Umatilla, Florida Hannahs Mill, Georgia Smyrna, Georgia Mount Prospect, Illinois Chance, Maryland Londontowne, Maryland Beverly, Massachusetts Topsfield, Massachusetts Florence, Mississippi Jackson, Missouri Ocean Grove, New Jersey Buffalo, New York Southold, New York Elizabeth City, North Carolina Fayetteville, North Carolina Lexington, North Carolina Seven Lakes, North Carolina Fruit Hill, Ohio Marblehead, Ohio New Miami, Ohio Mill City, Oregon Springfield, Oregon Old Orchard, Pennsylvania Northlake, South Carolina Seven Oaks, South Carolina Briarcliff, Texas Fort Worth, Texas Houston, Texas (2 reports) Katy, Texas Marshall Creek, Texas Round Rock, Texas Wichita Falls, Texas Fruit Heights, Utah Salt Lake City, Utah Kalama, Washington