PlantFiles: Gloxinia, Brazilian Gloxinia, Florist's Gloxinia, Violet Slipper Gloxinia
Sinningia speciosa

We've had one plant for about 4 years allowing it to go dormant in the fall (no water) and starting to water in early spring. It has been in the same pot all this time. It now puts up 3 separate stems and sequences 30 or 40 blossoms over the blooming period. Time to divide probably. It has lived and done well in PA and now thrives in NC. Fortunately, we moved while it was dormant. We find it likes dilute soluble fertilizer about every 4th watering.

I've got a white and red and both did well on the back deck. they got about 4 hrs of full sun and the rest shade . They are in the basement dormant. I got seeds this past yr, so I'll try them a little later. I've herd they took a while to get started, but we'll see.

This plant can be grown in containers and kept in a frost-free spot (such as a basement) and allowed to go dormant (no water) until spring. Beautiful velvet flowers when it blooms.

Although usually propagated from tubers, these absolutely gorgeous flowers can be grown from seed. I got some many years ago from Park Seed Co. that were double red, and it took many months before they got big enough to bloom. For the pristine look, they require high humidity but can't stand any water on their leaves. Water carefully with a long spout or water from beneath. Use tepid water, not cold. They also need a lot of light, but no direct sun, or flourescent lights for 12 to 14 hours a day. I have grown them in my greenhouse and under lights. A south facing window with a lace or sheer curtain would be fine, but I don't have one. They don't do well outside because the leaves get wet (and this makes gray spots and holes in them) and also any pollen from trees and other plants sticks to their hairy leaves and velvety blooms and spoils their looks. The tubers can be saved for many years if gradually dried off after blooming stops. Store them in a dark, dry, 50 to 60 degree spot for 3 months and then restart in a humusy, loose soil in a warm, well-lit spot. Believe it or not, I finally grew tired of them, but now I sort of wish I had one. The red spots on the leaves (above entry) sounds like rust, which can be curtailed with careful watering. You are probably better off starting with new plants, though.

I've been told these plants go through a dormant period & then regenerate. I've had a couple of them on separate occasions. They both died down never to be seen again. Pooh!

I envy anyone who has success with these plants. They are so beautiful that the first time I saw one I couldn't believe they were real.

I have had great success getting the plants to bloom and to propagate from a leaf. But lately I had some kind of disease I cannot identify; small reddish-brown spots on the leaves. A few showed up; then more came and more. Finally I threw the plants out. I should have kept them to try some chemicals on.

I purchased two more plants that bloomed beautifully.
Lately one tuber, after resting, has sent up two very tiny fully formed plants, about 2 inches tall instead of 14 inches!! So far neither has bloomed. Are these small plants OK or do they indicate that the tuber needs rest??? Or disease??

This herb can be very beautiful, with large leaves and flowers. It has a tubercule, so it gets dormant during the dry season. Comes in many varieties, with white, pink, red and purple, large tubbed flowers, very often spotted