Photo by Melody

PlantFiles: Gloxinia, Brazilian Gloxinia, Florist's Gloxinia, Violet Slipper Gloxinia
Sinningia speciosa

Family: Gesneriaceae (ges-ner-ee-AY-see-ee) (Info)
Genus: Sinningia (sigh-NIN-jee-uh) (Info)
Species: speciosa (spee-see-OH-suh) (Info)

Synonym:Gloxinia speciosa

9 members have or want this plant for trade.

Tropicals and Tender Perennials

6-12 in. (15-30 cm)

9-12 in. (22-30 cm)

USDA Zone 11: above 4.5 C (40 F)

Sun Exposure:
Light Shade


Bloom Color:
Scarlet (Dark Red)
White/Near White

Bloom Time:
Late Spring/Early Summer
Mid Summer
Late Summer/Early Fall


Other details:
Average Water Needs; Water regularly; do not overwater

Soil pH requirements:
5.6 to 6.0 (acidic)
6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic)
6.6 to 7.5 (neutral)

Patent Information:

Propagation Methods:
By dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets)
From leaf cuttings
From herbaceous stem cuttings
From seed; sow indoors before last frost

Seed Collecting:
Allow pods to dry on plant; break open to collect seeds
N/A: plant does not set seed, flowers are sterile, or plants will not come true from seed

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There are a total of 29 photos.
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9 positives
2 neutrals
No negatives

Gardeners' Notes:

Positive nathanieledison On Aug 30, 2013, nathanieledison from Santa Rosa, CA (Zone 9b) wrote:

Hi all,

This is my first time growing gloxinias, so I really don't have experience tips to give. However: being a plant with high humidity needs, one way to give it what it wants is by putting it in the bathroom when you shower, then closing the door afterwards or leaving it slightly open.

My bathroom is solid white walls, with a skylight and two windows...the reflected bright light + humidity is perfect for almost any tropical houseplant. If the leaves start to mold, leave the door open the next few times you shower and it should slowly disappear.


Positive DGRich53 On Feb 14, 2013, DGRich53 from Janeville, WI wrote:

I've been growing Gloxies for years and they are always the highlight of the summer. When I first bought Emperor William (from, of all places, a local Trader Joe's) I was hooked. I went back the next day and added two more -Emperor Frederick and Elizabeth. My Elizabeth died this past year but both William and Frederick continue, now almost 9 years. And have produced multiple offspring. Sadly, Elizabeth was poisoned before I could take cuttings.

It gets cold in Wisconsin so I bring them in around October 15; set them in a corner of my plant room for their dormant period then in a south facing window all winter. Most seasons, they nare blooming before I put them back out in June.

Great plant that requires just a little extra care.

Positive jkilkullen On Jan 4, 2011, jkilkullen from Palo Alto, CA wrote:

They are stunning. I live in Northern California, though, in a definitely not humid climate, so I'm wondering about watering. They don't like water on their leaves--does that include misting? If the air isn't ever humid, can they grow o.k. anyway?

Positive PedricksCorner On Jul 11, 2010, PedricksCorner from Freedom, CA (Zone 9b) wrote:

I echo the sentiment above, these can be so beautiful it is hard to believe they are real. My plant is descended from a cutting I took about 12 years ago. Than can live outdoors in nice weather, but the snails love them and you'll never know they tried to come back up in the spring. If you can grow African Violets, then you can grow these. It is with great anticipation that I wait for this guy to bloom each year!

Positive hermaryk On Sep 24, 2005, hermaryk from Pittsboro, NC wrote:

We've had one plant for about 4 years allowing it to go dormant in the fall (no water) and starting to water in early spring. It has been in the same pot all this time. It now puts up 3 separate stems and sequences 30 or 40 blossoms over the blooming period. Time to divide probably. It has lived and done well in PA and now thrives in NC. Fortunately, we moved while it was dormant. We find it likes dilute soluble fertilizer about every 4th watering.

Positive rb250 On Mar 4, 2005, rb250 from Danville, VA (Zone 7b) wrote:

I've got a white and red and both did well on the back deck. they got about 4 hrs of full sun and the rest shade . They are in the basement dormant. I got seeds this past yr, so I'll try them a little later. I've herd they took a while to get started, but we'll see.

Positive MissPrimrose On Oct 5, 2003, MissPrimrose from Lowell, MA wrote:

This plant can be grown in containers and kept in a frost-free spot (such as a basement) and allowed to go dormant (no water) until spring. Beautiful velvet flowers when it blooms.

Neutral Toxicodendron On Sep 22, 2003, Toxicodendron from Piedmont, MO (Zone 6a) wrote:

Although usually propagated from tubers, these absolutely gorgeous flowers can be grown from seed. I got some many years ago from Park Seed Co. that were double red, and it took many months before they got big enough to bloom. For the pristine look, they require high humidity but can't stand any water on their leaves. Water carefully with a long spout or water from beneath. Use tepid water, not cold. They also need a lot of light, but no direct sun, or flourescent lights for 12 to 14 hours a day. I have grown them in my greenhouse and under lights. A south facing window with a lace or sheer curtain would be fine, but I don't have one. They don't do well outside because the leaves get wet (and this makes gray spots and holes in them) and also any pollen from trees and other plants sticks to their hairy leaves and velvety blooms and spoils their looks. The tubers can be saved for many years if gradually dried off after blooming stops. Store them in a dark, dry, 50 to 60 degree spot for 3 months and then restart in a humusy, loose soil in a warm, well-lit spot. Believe it or not, I finally grew tired of them, but now I sort of wish I had one. The red spots on the leaves (above entry) sounds like rust, which can be curtailed with careful watering. You are probably better off starting with new plants, though.

Neutral broozersnooze On Sep 21, 2003, broozersnooze from Jacksonville, FL (Zone 9b) wrote:

I've been told these plants go through a dormant period & then regenerate. I've had a couple of them on separate occasions. They both died down never to be seen again. Pooh!

I envy anyone who has success with these plants. They are so beautiful that the first time I saw one I couldn't believe they were real.

Positive Larrymason On Sep 20, 2003, Larrymason from Rochester, MN wrote:

I have had great success getting the plants to bloom and to propagate from a leaf. But lately I had some kind of disease I cannot identify; small reddish-brown spots on the leaves. A few showed up; then more came and more. Finally I threw the plants out. I should have kept them to try some chemicals on.

I purchased two more plants that bloomed beautifully.
Lately one tuber, after resting, has sent up two very tiny fully formed plants, about 2 inches tall instead of 14 inches!! So far neither has bloomed. Are these small plants OK or do they indicate that the tuber needs rest??? Or disease??

Positive Monocromatico On May 23, 2003, Monocromatico from Rio de Janeiro
Brazil (Zone 11) wrote:

This herb can be very beautiful, with large leaves and flowers. It has a tubercule, so it gets dormant during the dry season. Comes in many varieties, with white, pink, red and purple, large tubbed flowers, very often spotted


This plant has been said to grow in the following regions:

Amesti, California
Anderson, California
Carmel, California
Fountain Valley, California
Merced, California
San Leandro, California
Pinellas Park, Florida
Marietta, Georgia
Lowell, Massachusetts
Dearborn Heights, Michigan
Rochester, Minnesota
Saint Robert, Missouri
Pittsboro, North Carolina
West Linn, Oregon
Lafayette, Tennessee
San Antonio, Texas
Danville, Virginia
Waller, Washington
Janesville, Wisconsin

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