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Height: 12-18 in. (30-45 cm) 18-24 in. (45-60 cm) 24-36 in. (60-90 cm)
Spacing: 36-48 in. (90-120 cm) 4-6 ft. (1.2-1.8 m) 6-8 ft. (1.8-2.4 m)
Hardiness: USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 °C (20 °F) USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 °C (25 °F) USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 °C (30 °F) USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 °C (35 °F) USDA Zone 11: above 4.5 °C (40 °F)
Sun Exposure: Full Sun Sun to Partial Shade
Danger: Plant has spines or sharp edges; use extreme caution when handling
Bloom Color: Pale Yellow Chartreuse (Yellow-Green)
Bloom Time: Mid Spring
Foliage: Succulent
Other details: Drought-tolerant; suitable for xeriscaping
Soil pH requirements: 6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic) 6.6 to 7.5 (neutral)
Patent Information: Non-patented
Propagation Methods: From softwood cuttings From seed; germinate in vitro in gelatin, agar or other medium By grafting By simple layering
Seed Collecting: Remove fleshy coating on seeds before storing Allow unblemished fruit to ripen; clean and dry seeds
On Jun 9, 2005, Xenomorf from Valley of the Sun, AZ (Zone 9b) wrote:
This species/variety (O. microdasys var. microdasys) has reddish brown glochids and the areoles are closer set together than Opuntia rufida. The pads (or stem segments) are also smaller on the average than Opuntia rufida. The epidermis is also a darker green than O. rufida.
On Aug 16, 2004, deborahgrand from Baton Rouge, LA wrote:
I started mine from a small cutting from a friend's plant in New Orleans. Kept it in a pot (which, by the way, had to move by wrapping it with bubble wrap and then newspaper to keep it from KILLING everyone who touched it). Pot broke several years ago and plant naturalized into ground and is still growing strong. Doesn't bloom much, but doesn't get full sun. Plan to replant it and maybe some clones under some windows that have a history of getting broken into. That'll teach 'em.
On Jul 8, 2004, TucsonJen from Tucson, AZ (Zone 9a) wrote:
I read this about it: "Cute when purchased in a tiny pot at the discount store, once in ground it will cover a large area in a few years." "The plants are easily controlled with a bulldozer while wearing a chemical warfare suit." I think that's from an Arizona Native Plant Society Brochure.
I put mine in an area where it can go wild without endangering my family. I love it.
On Jan 31, 2004, albleroy from Wavre/ greenhous +/- 2500 species, IA wrote:
The easiest way to take the small spines (glochids) out of the skin is to malax well you chewing gum in your mounth and then to roll it a little time over the place affected of the hands. You will see, all will be away.
On Dec 29, 2003, henryr10 from Cincinnati, OH (Zone 6b) wrote:
A trick I was taught to use on opuntia and other cactus,
as well as fiberglass splinters, is to coat the area affected w/ Elmer Glue and let it dry.
Then peel the glue off. Almost all the splinters will pull out w/ the glue.
Saves a BUNCH of aggravation!
On Nov 1, 2003, palmbob from Tarzana, CA (Zone 9b) wrote:
I love the look of this Opuntia, but it is deceptively nasty. The soft, fuzzy looking spines stick to your skin with the slightest brush-by and then they are hard to get off... most attempts to pull these itty bitty spines just pushed them in further or breaks them off at the skin level... washing them off with a sharp stream of water works the best. Otherwise it's a lot of work with a magnifying glass and a good pair of tweezers. Also, just moving the plant about will dislodge spines and they can blow into your eyes and nose/mouth. Rinsing plant with water is supposed to help keep this from happening, just before you move it. This species is also very prone to rot if watered to much via sprinklers. Rain water never seems to hurt it though.
Regional...
This plant has been said to grow in the following regions:
Goodyear, Arizona Phoenix, Arizona Tucson, Arizona San Diego, California (2 reports) Spring Valley, California Thousand Oaks, California Baton Rouge, Louisiana Albuquerque, New Mexico Conway, South Carolina San Antonio, Texas Saint George, Utah