Hardiness: USDA Zone 4a: to -34.4 °C (-30 °F) USDA Zone 4b: to -31.6 °C (-25 °F) USDA Zone 5a: to -28.8 °C (-20 °F) USDA Zone 5b: to -26.1 °C (-15 °F) USDA Zone 6a: to -23.3 °C (-10 °F) USDA Zone 6b: to -20.5 °C (-5 °F) USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7 °C (0 °F) USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9 °C (5 °F) USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 °C (10 °F) USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 °C (15 °F) USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 °C (20 °F) USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 °C (25 °F) USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 °C (30 °F) USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 °C (35 °F)
Sun Exposure: Full Sun
Danger: Parts of plant are poisonous if ingested
Bloom Color: Orange
Bloom Time: Mid Summer Late Summer/Early Fall
Other details: This plant is attractive to bees, butterflies and/or birds Drought-tolerant; suitable for xeriscaping Self-sows freely; deadhead if you do not want volunteer seedlings next season
Soil pH requirements: 5.6 to 6.0 (acidic) 6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic) 6.6 to 7.5 (neutral)
Patent Information: Non-patented
Propagation Methods: By dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets) From seed; direct sow outdoors in fall From seed; winter sow in vented containers, coldframe or unheated greenhouse From seed; stratify if sowing indoors
Seed Collecting: Bag seedheads to capture ripening seed Allow pods to dry on plant; break open to collect seeds Properly cleaned, seed can be successfully stored
On Feb 22, 2013, saskboy from Regina, SK (Zone 3b) wrote:
love this plant for the color of the flowers and the sturdiness of its structure. It blooms for a long time and needs no special care. It is somewhat drought tolerant and needs to be in well drained soil to thrive. the more sun you can give it, the better it will bloom. Aphids do seem to love it, but other than spraying them off with a hose, I dont do anything else, the aphids seldom do any major or permanent damage. Ive had monarchs lay eggs on this plant and had the pleasure of seeing them hatch into beautiful butterflies--that alone is worth growing them for.
keep in mind that these plants are quite late to emerge in the late spring. dont despair -- they dont come up until late may here, but make up for lost time very rapidly. Overall, I would have to classify these as being more useful in the wildflower or rustic garden than in formal beds and borders.
A friend gave me two pots with a couple of stalks of milkweed in each. They grew prolifically to a height of about 4.5 feet. But then the aphids struck. I didn't want the aphids spreading so I cut it all back to 4" stalks and then went on a two week vacation. When I got back yesterday, both are growing back well, but one is covered in aphids again. This time I looked through all the posts here and one of the readers provided two links. One with plants to grow that attract the predatory insects that will eat the aphids so that I like having aphids. Thank you to whomever shared that information.
On Sep 16, 2012, cartoongrower from Pinehurst, NC wrote:
I work in a garden center and a few years ago a client donated a Mexican Butterfly weed, Asclepias curassavica, from which I have sold plants from its cuttings for the past three seasons. As for APHIDS which love this plant, I use a heavily diluted solution (10 to 1) of Seargent's tick and flea shampoo to control them. I'm sure any flea shampoo would work. I spray the day I first see them...they love the most tender parts of the plant (new growth which can be in several areas of the plant). My experience is that aphids congregate just below the blooms and on the underside of the leaves below the bloom. The small offshoots on the plant are also very tender and often have tiny leaves whose undersides are covered with aphids.
The next day after spraying, the golden colored aphids will be dead and black. I spray them off the plant for looks and to be able to monitor improvement. It takes about three weeks of treatment every time they show up but eventually they move on until the next time they appear.
The plant and the pollinators that frequent it are well worth the trouble.
On Jul 8, 2012, patriciaarln from Arlington, VA wrote:
I'm certainly not negative about butterfly milkweed! But it just won't grow in my clay soil. I've planted it (nursery plants) twice and it grew well but didn't return the next year. I'm now trying Asclepias incarnata which is supposed to be more clay-tolerant.
On May 26, 2012, VicPinto from Ocean Grove, MA wrote:
This is my third year with this plant from seed. I planted about 30 plants in 2010. In 2011 I got some very small plants and some flowering. This year, all I can say is wow! The plants are huge and there are plenty of seedlings from last year's seeds. I was going to grow some more seed but after seeing how profusely it self seeds I decided there was no need. I can't wait to see them in bloom this year and hopefully I'll get some monarchs too.
On Apr 11, 2012, cougarvamp45 from Bridgeview, IL wrote:
I planted 4 of these last year, without knowing much about the plant. Only 1 came up, it was under a rose bush, & didn't get enough sun. It remained small, but I did get some beautiful orange blooms on it. I'm giving this a neutral rating, because it's spring, & I don't see any signs of any of the 8 Milkweed plants I planted last year. Are they slow to emerge, or did they die off?
On Oct 24, 2011, monarch_lady2 from Santa Monica, CA wrote:
There a number of comments about aphids on the milkweed plants. Milkweed plants are plagued by very yellow aphids at certain times of the year. There were recommendations to put ladybugs on the plants to control the aphids. While that will control the aphids, it is important to know that the ladybugs will also eat the monarch caterpillars when they first hatch. If your goal is to provide the milkweed for monarch caterpillar food don't use ladybugs. Instead just put on some gloves and wipe the aphids off. They are very soft and just squish. It's easy to tell the aphids from monarch eggs. Eggs are almost always on the underside of the leaves and are creamy white. Aphids are bright yellow, usually on the stems and you can see them moving.
On Oct 22, 2011, SueDuffy from San Antonio, TX wrote:
From a sm. 3" pot planted early this spring in full sun, these lovely flowers have spread to several locations in my gardens. This fall the are home to dozens of Monarch butterflies, but more importantly, the Monarch catepillars which I visit every morning. In prior years, Monarchs have zeroed in on my parsleys, eating them to the nub. I am thrilled at this butterfly host. Small small plants transplant quite easily, and I've gathered the seeds to share.
On Jun 14, 2011, sonoranpoet from Cave Creek, AZ (Zone 9b) wrote:
3rd season in zone 5b, Salt air and tough exposure and lousy sandy soil and these plants love it. Might not get as tall here as some other places but makes a lovely cutting for bouquets and fall interest. Easy to miss coming out of the ground initially...be careful how you rake early in the spring. I planted these in a (loose) triangular array of about 12 and they are striking in July and part of August
On Jun 13, 2011, sarahal from Charlotte, NC (Zone 7b) wrote:
Love love love this plant. In my zone 7B (headed for 8 I'm afraid) NC garden, they are in full sun on a small slope. (A. incarnata gets the wetter spot.) I just moved last fall and the monarchs haven't found the new garden yet, but I'm sure they'll be along soon.
Yes, they get the bright yellow aphids, but those don't hurt anything so I leave them alone and pretend they're part of the show.
On May 14, 2011, runnerboy713 from Westborough, MA (Zone 5b) wrote:
Great butterfly plant, with additional autumn interest with the seed pods. Sometimes nursery bought plants haven't survived for me, but given an ideal location and care during their first year, they will thrive.
On May 3, 2011, lindanat from Asbury Park, NJ wrote:
Maybe this is not the place to ask . . when this plant returns, rather than seeding, can anyone tell me what the sprout looks like? I think I may have been pulling mine out thinking it was something else. Also, I put one into a place that I did not realize would stay very wet after rains. This trooper even thrived in this wet soil, contrary to everything I've read before!
On Apr 2, 2011, WoodsGrower from Ashville, OH wrote:
I found this plant growing wild in our local area, and the striking orange-yellow flowers impressed me so much I waited until the seed pods matured and gathered seeds. The first attempt to plant them failed, since I had not stratified them with the cold they needed to sprout. Later success has yielded several dozens of plants on my 1.25 acre lot. It is gorgeous, and attracts monarchs by the dozen when in full bloom. I allow the butterflies to lay their eggs and do what they will with the plants, since monarchs do seem to be in decline recently.
If aphids attack in force, do a search for Ladybugs, and arrange situations that attract and hold them to your yard and garden area, We have a large Ladybug population locally, and when the aphids appear, so do the Ladybugs, who make short work of them, eating hundreds a day. You can buy dormant Ladybugs, but will need to provide an environment that will hold them in your yard. If you buy some, release them on a cool and cloudy day, since on warm days they will likely just fly away after release. Several of the tiny wasps predate aphids as well, and they can be purchased also.
Every year I get aphids on my tomato plants, but with a week or two the Ladybugs and wasps decimate them, and they are not a problem for the remainder of the season.
On Mar 14, 2011, ferngrrl from New Orleans, LA wrote:
Monarchs lay their eggs on *milkweeds*, genus Asclepias, not on butterfly weed alone. Butterfly weed is one kind of milkweed.
Lovely flowers, too.
The sole plant I planted last early summer did well in the back yard--very leggy, kind spindly looking, got devoured by monarchs, hosted their chrysalises (sp?), regrew its leaves and flowers, and did the whole cycle few more times before the freezes we had in the winter (2010).
Gets full, hot sun all day, has no protection from north wind. Because I hadn't protected it during the freezes, I thought it was a goner. But now, in March 2011, it's flowering and leafing out. And four monarchs hovered around it yesterday, same for the butterfly bushes (Buddleia davidii) in the front yard (which stayed green during the winter & freezes, with no protection, planted near the street, east side) .
On Mar 8, 2011, mountainman72 from Broomfield, CO wrote:
If you love Monarch Butterflies then you should know that their populations were estimated to have been cut in HALF in 2010 due to harsh Mexican winters, destruction of habitat, and pesticides! There are easier ways to control pests in the garden with plants like strongly scented marigolds or borage.The butterfly weed is native in CO and it's also the mainstay of the Monarch butterfly diet. Not only is it one of few plants the Monarch eats, but it's the ONLY plant that the monarch butterfly lays its eggs on. Wouldn't it be cool to see monarch caterpillars in your garden? I read a comment below about problems with aphids on these plants, I sure hope they weren't seeing butterfly eggs and mistakenly thought they were aphids. If they were indeed aphids here is a handy little website that teaches us how to attract beneficial insects with plants (like ladybugs that eat aphids by the hundreds). http://www.grinningplanet.com/2005/04-26/beneficial-insect-n...
On Oct 20, 2010, tulpen from Los Angeles, CA wrote:
Planted this interesting plant from a seedling in the spring, especially drawn to it for the benefit of butterflies. As of today, two timid, tiny branches - hoping that the info I read on " requires time to establish itself" holds true...
I hope this doesn't get double posted. I was editing another before this and it disappeared.
I rescued some orange milkweed from the next yard when new owners were going to grass everything over. It thrived from the first day and 3 yrs later I divided it into 4 smaller clumps and transplanted them in 4 different places, two here in Dayton OH and two at my weekend home in St. Marys OH. They have thrived and bloomed all summer as before. I also have tall swamp milkweed that blooms pink and milkweed vine, which can be invasive, but I leave some for the Monarchs. This year some of the milkweed vine bloomed on a trellis with my sweet autumn clematis and they looked very nice together. I think the original orange clump was just so happy to be rescued that it rewarded me with its flowers, lol.
The aphids I get are very late in the season and I usually prune back the infested stems.
On Oct 18, 2010, harveyshot from Guthrie, OK wrote:
I love the plant for it's attraction to Monarchs. When we see a Monarch caterpillar on it, we wait until it grows a bit and then we put it in a small screen covered aquarium, feed it a lot of fresh leaves, clean the poop out (a lot for such little things!) and wait for it to coccoon and if your lucky, you'll get the chance to see it emerge. Fantastic to watch.
Yeah, the aphids love it but I try to hose off as many as possible.
On Oct 3, 2010, sadele from Sag Harbor, NY (Zone 7a) wrote:
I have 4 plants with about 25 seed pods on them. Several of the pods are cracking open now, with some of the seeds already sprouting in the pod! Have never seen that before. Leaves & pods have some mildew (very dry summer, lots of rain the past couple weeks) (NY Long Is.) but seeds and sprouts are fine.
On Sep 27, 2010, Clary from Lewisburg, PA (Zone 6b) wrote:
A very reliable perennial that has the added appeal of attracting butterflies.
The roots are tubers, and once they have matured to carrot-size, they are very hardy and will regenerate easily if the plant is damaged.
The color and texture of the flowers is a bit strange which is why I no longer grow it: a true carrot-colored orange with fleshy petals... It just didn't seem to work with the grasses, sages, and daisies of the typical perennial garden.
On Aug 22, 2010, nwelsh from Downers Grove, IL wrote:
This is my second year with the plant and the first season for blooms. The flowers were very nice, but I (like many others) have aphids are ALL over the plants.... it does not seem to be harming the plant (other than it looks at little gross). I was happy to see a few caterpillars too. I'm guessing when there are more caterpillars, the plant may look a little ragged.
I don't want to spray anything since I do have butterflies and caterpillars, and bees all over these plants. I think instead I will just change the location for this plant. When visitors are waiting at the front door, the aphid infested plants are in full view. I think the caterpillars will increase and so I will just have raggedy, aphid infested plants. Also the number of bees on the flowers does alarm some people. The bees don't bother me, but a couple of times I have opened the door to someone in a panic. :)
That said I am still keeping the plant, but I plan to sow the seeds from the in a place further away from my pathway. This way I can still view (and support) the butterflies, without the plant being all that visible.
On Dec 12, 2009, HummingbirdDude from Whitehall, PA wrote:
This plant is very beautiful and is really beneficial to wildlife. It also blooms for a long time. However, I found out that rabbits seem to really enjoy nibbling on this plant and aphids also like it as well. When I bought mine in August it was growing good until the rabbits and the aphids came along. I know think the plant is dead after all the abuse it suffered.I'll have to wait to spring to see if anything comes up.
On Aug 8, 2008, cedar18 from Lula, GA (Zone 7b) wrote:
I noticed a large patch had been mowed by the county when it was still blooming. Now, probably 6 weeks later, the plants are all up and blooming again! They managed this in all the weed and grass competition. I plan to cut mine back next year as others have mentioned here. This patch was mowed probably to 4 or 5" from the ground.
On Jul 14, 2008, Malus2006 from Coon Rapids, MN (Zone 4a) wrote:
Becoming much more common on the urban roadside compare to 10 years ago. Seem willing to seed itself even in fully established grasses. Loves dry grassland condition with plenty of sun. Tough to get establishment for me - none had survived. The picture I submitted above is a larger than usual patch at the Minnesota Arboretum - on roadside they are usually smaller but very eye catching - the only orange flowers except for wild lilies (species unknown but may includes wood lilies and tiger lilies) and tawny daylilies in mid to late summer on roadsides. Even then, lilies tend to be more common in rural areas.
On Jun 21, 2008, violentfemmexx1 from Cincinnati, OH wrote:
my sister had butterfly weed in her garden and i asked her to dig me up some. she told me that they do not transplant well. i bought seed packets from meijer and started them off using jiffy peat pellet greenhouse. they did well in the peat pellets but when i did transplant them into their new and permanent home, half of them died. very hard to transplant. start them off from seed where you want them to end up.
I have three plants grown from seed, no blooms yet but the posts above give me faith that next year will be a showstopper. There are already Monarchs fluttering by. The aphids don't hurt the plants a bit, but I hose them off when I do my weekly watering. I've planted a patch of dwarf tithonia cultivar close-by that's coming into bloom now (8/6, 7b), and am hoping to have a nice patch of Monarch-bait, and seeds to save for next year's crop.
On Jun 13, 2006, SummerSun06 from Townsend, MA (Zone 5b) wrote:
I am not a big fan of orange flowers in m garden but this is one of the few that I have to include. It is trouble free and reliable. Butterflies really do love it. A must-have in butterfly gardens that are lacking in plants for caterpillars to feed on. Raised beds and sandy soil work great for me.
This is my favorite plant of the Asclepias family. It is really a nice height. I have read that it is hardy in zones 3-10. Light aids germination of seeds. Blooms June-July in my garden. Very aphid prone!
I transplanted my asclepias tuberosa in August after 3 years in the wrong spot. I got as much of the tap root as I could. I cut it back by about 1/3. All the leaves fell off but it got new growth from the base and has a bloom on it. I have had trouble with aphids on my curassavica but none on my tuberosa until I moved it to the back with the curassavica. My curassavica got to about 6' in height and when it finished blooming, I cut it back to about 3 feet. It is blooming and again. Next year I will pinch it back to make it branch and cut it back after blooming. My lantana and butterfly weeds are the bright spot in my garden at this time of year.
On Oct 27, 2005, Sarahskeeper from Brockton, MA (Zone 6a) wrote:
I've found that transplanting 1 year old plants can be tricky with that tap root. I plant them in groups of 3 or 5 about a foot apart so loosing one is no problem.
For best results, transplant just as they emerge in spring.
On Jun 28, 2005, JaxFlaGardener from Jacksonville, FL (Zone 8b) wrote:
It self seeds easily. I started with one plant and now have about a dozen after one year. The seedlings can be transplanted without too much shock if you identify them early and move them to simailar growing conditions.
Last year was the first year I got flowers, but they were so covered with aphids that I couldn't tell the flowers from the aphids. I did not spray with insecticide, but tried to control them with hard sprays from the garden hose. I will be patient and try one more year, but if it continues I will move it to the back of the yard where I won't see the aphids, just the color. UPDATE: I still have an aphid problem but this year my plant has been host to many Monarch butterfly caterpillars. Made all the hassle worthwhile!
On Mar 8, 2005, maggiemoo from Conroe, TX (Zone 9a) wrote:
Don't sweat the aphids, that's one of the great "uses" of this plant! It does attract aphids, but the aphids don't hurt the plant. In return, the aphids stay off your roses and everything else, and they attract beneficials, such as ladybugs. Since I've had some of these in select areas of my rose bed, I've haven't seen even a hint of aphids on my roses!
They not only attract butterflies, especially Monarchs, they are the larval food of the Monarch butterfly - so leave those beautiful caterpillars be!
If you don't want them to re-seed, simply cut off the seed pod before it opens. My experience has been that the seedlings are easy enough to pull if they aren't where you want them to be.
I really love the flowers, so this plant is a hard "worker" in my garden - great looks, easy care, bug control, and butterfly nursery/attractant!
On Jan 1, 2005, missmuffit from Des Moines, IA (Zone 5a) wrote:
I was surprised how very easy it was to raise the cultivar 'Red Butterflies' from seed.
Each plant flowered and I got the bonus of seeing my first Monarch catepillar up close and personal. They completely ingested that one plant but I had several others for my viewing pleasure.
It makes me happy to know I am doing my part to continue the cycle of life - especially since the SOLE food source of the Monarch catepillar is milkweed. And urbanization is starting to deplete that wild food source.
A beautiful and exciting plant!
On Nov 10, 2003, suncatcheracres from Old Town, FL wrote:
Try planting this plant with Tithonia rotundifolia (a perennial often grown as an annual that self sows) as A. tuberosa provides food for the larval stage of Monarchs, but Tithonia, or Mexican Sunflower, provides nectar for the adults, and Tithonia's spectacular orange-red flowers attract the Monarchs to your garden in the first place.
I recently saw the two plants growing together in a lovely garden in Gainesville, Florida, and the plants were covered with butterflies. Their orange/yellow flowers go well together, and the usually taller Tithonia, to about six feet, looked nice behind the shorter Butterfly weed. There are also shorter cultivars of Tithonia that would look good mixed with the Butterfly Weed. And I think if they were planted all mixed together, the uneaten foliage of the Tithonia would somewhat hide the unsightly eaten-down foliage of the Butterfly Weed once the Monarch caterpillars had finished with it.
As for the orange colored aphids, a good spray with the hose, or just wiping them off with some damp paper towels, will do a lot to diminish their numbers. They never seem to actually harm the plants, but I don't like to see them in my garden either, so I try to get rid of them, rather than get rid of the plants.
On Nov 9, 2003, dogbane from New Orleans, LA (Zone 9a) wrote:
If you really feel the need to control the aphids, and your planting is too big to use mechanical control, use one of the oil or soap sprays. These are non-toxic and kill by covering the aphids breathing holes. It's easy enough to avoid spraying the caterpillars. In my garden, the monarch larvae seem to keep the plants stripped most of the time (no matter how much I plant), so the aphids don't have much of a chance to do damage.
On Oct 29, 2003, onalee from Brooksville, FL (Zone 9a) wrote:
Butterfly Weed is very prone to yellow oleander aphids - it pretty much comes with the territory. Some farmers use milk weed to draw aphids away from their crops. You can't spray insecticide or you will defeat the purpose of the milkweed - to raise Monarchs (among others.) I simply use a tissue and wipe them off from time to time, but they really don't hurt the plant or the caterpillars that I've found.
This is the first year I've had a butterfly garden, and I've raised 4 generations of Monarchs off of it this summer! A couple of weeks after one batch of caterpillars was gone, another would appear - always in groups. Make sure you get your seed pods EARLY in the year - my plants never bloomed again after June because they were constantly being eaten up - but I didn't mind because I loved watching the butterflies!
I planted Mexican Sunflower in with the milkweed to draw the adults to the area - it was a huge success! If you want Monarchs, you have to have milkweed and you have to let them eat it!
On Jul 9, 2003, nipajo from Dallas, TX (Zone 8b) wrote:
I love Butterfly Weed, but they are hard to dig out - I had them growing all over the place. This year I have most of them in pots. I'm trying the yellow variety this year and so far no insect problems.
On Nov 14, 2002, jkom51 from Oakland, CA (Zone 9b) wrote:
Vigorous growth, beautiful next to gentian sage, but just could not keep the aphids off it! Every three days they were back again no matter what I used. Finally uprooted it and tossed it out. My garden consists of numerous small beds, many different individual plants together -- this has been the only plant suffering such heavy insect infestation.
On Jul 27, 2002, DavidPat5 from Chicago, IL wrote:
Butterfly Weed takes three years to really flower but after that they're really dependable. The seed pods have small flat seeds with silk on one end used to scatter them. These plants come up late in spring; mark them so you don't dig them up! Cutting them back about six inches after the first bloom finishes will cause them to flower again. I did have a problem with Aphids a couple years back. I just sprayed them off with the garden hose.
On Dec 17, 2000, SMSpear1 from Saint Louis, MO (Zone 5b) wrote:
Butterfly Weed is a perennial wildflower. It is hardy to USDA Zone 3. The plant will grow to 2 to 3 feet in height and 15 to 24 inches wide.
It thrives in light, sandy, well drained soil with full sun. It requires little fertilizer. Butterfly Weed lives up to its name, attracting monarchs and other butterflies.
This plant has been said to grow in the following regions:
, Auburn, Alabama Saraland, Alabama Trinity, Alabama Tuscumbia, Alabama Batesville, Arkansas Deer, Arkansas Fayetteville, Arkansas Morrilton, Arkansas Laguna West-lakeside, California Merced, California Oakley, California Santa Monica, California Broomfield, Colorado Colorado Springs, Colorado Edgewater, Colorado Highlands Ranch, Colorado Cos Cob, Connecticut Ellendale, Delaware Pike Creek, Delaware Bartow, Florida Bradley, Florida Clearwater, Florida Fort Meade, Florida Fountain, Florida Fruitville, Florida Gainesville, Florida Hollywood, Florida Jacksonville, Florida Keystone Heights, Florida Niceville, Florida North Sarasota, Florida Old Town, Florida Oldsmar, Florida Spring Hill, Florida Summerfield, Florida Vero Beach, Florida Braselton, Georgia (2 reports) Carrollton, Georgia Druid Hills, Georgia Rutledge, Georgia Stone Mountain, Georgia Valdosta, Georgia Vernonburg, Georgia Bridgeview, Illinois Cherry Valley, Illinois Chicago, Illinois (2 reports) Downers Grove, Illinois Edwardsville, Illinois Machesney Park, Illinois Palmyra, Illinois Pontiac, Illinois Washington, Illinois Waukegan, Illinois Fishers, Indiana Galena, Indiana Indianapolis, Indiana Logansport, Indiana Des Moines, Iowa Indianola, Iowa Iowa City, Iowa Marshalltown, Iowa Nichols, Iowa Urbandale, Iowa Overland Park, Kansas Sterling, Kansas Barbourville, Kentucky Melbourne, Kentucky Prospect, Kentucky Somerset, Kentucky Eden Isle, Louisiana New Orleans, Louisiana (2 reports) Old Jefferson, Louisiana Zachary, Louisiana Zwolle, Louisiana Brookeville, Maryland Columbia, Maryland Dracut, Massachusetts Ocean Grove, Massachusetts Townsend, Massachusetts Westborough, Massachusetts Dearborn Heights, Michigan Erie, Michigan Grass Lake, Michigan Pinconning, Michigan Port Austin, Michigan Saginaw, Michigan Stephenson, Michigan Coates, Minnesota Minneapolis, Minnesota (2 reports) Young America, Minnesota Carriere, Mississippi Grenada, Mississippi Madison, Mississippi Mathiston, Mississippi Cole Camp, Missouri Saint Robert, Missouri Thayer, Missouri West Sullivan, Missouri Blair, Nebraska Lincoln, Nebraska (2 reports) Andover, New Hampshire Greenville, New Hampshire Hudson, New Hampshire Asbury Park, New Jersey Clearbrook Park, New Jersey Frenchtown, New Jersey Jersey City, New Jersey Moorestown-lenola, New Jersey Country Knolls, New York Crown Heights, New York Honeoye Falls, New York New York, New York Newfield, New York North Haven, New York Ronkonkoma, New York Stony Point, New York Wallkill, New York Warwick, New York Flat Rock, North Carolina Fuquay-varina, North Carolina Gorman, North Carolina Greenville, North Carolina High Point, North Carolina Lake Toxaway, North Carolina Norlina, North Carolina Pinehurst, North Carolina Raleigh, North Carolina Rougemont, North Carolina Wake Forest, North Carolina Ashville, Ohio Bellaire, Ohio Bucyrus, Ohio Cincinnati, Ohio (2 reports) Coshocton, Ohio Dayton, Ohio Glouster, Ohio Madison, Ohio New Carlisle, Ohio Saint Marys, Ohio Bartlesville, Oklahoma Cedar Valley, Oklahoma Hulbert, Oklahoma Thackerville, Oklahoma Tulsa, Oklahoma Elkton, Oregon Roseburg, Oregon Salem, Oregon Sweet Home, Oregon Albion, Pennsylvania Arlington Heights, Pennsylvania Brookhaven, Pennsylvania East Norriton, Pennsylvania Howard, Pennsylvania Laflin, Pennsylvania Lewisburg, Pennsylvania Mount Joy, Pennsylvania Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania Sayre, Pennsylvania Spring Grove, Pennsylvania Tunkhannock, Pennsylvania Wellsville, Pennsylvania West Chester, Pennsylvania Whitehall, Pennsylvania Wrightsville, Pennsylvania Regina, Saskatchewan Clemson, South Carolina Columbia, South Carolina Conway, South Carolina East Sumter, South Carolina Greenville, South Carolina Murrells Inlet, South Carolina Prosperity, South Carolina Spartanburg, South Carolina Benton, Tennessee Christiana, Tennessee Crossville, Tennessee Forest Hills, Tennessee Knoxville, Tennessee Middle Valley, Tennessee Pocahontas, Tennessee Viola, Tennessee Alice, Texas Arlington, Texas Bayview, Texas Bonney, Texas Brownsville, Texas Bulverde, Texas Conroe, Texas Dallas, Texas Dalworthington Gardens, Texas (2 reports) Deer Park, Texas Fort Worth, Texas Georgetown, Texas Grand Prairie, Texas Hereford, Texas Houston, Texas (2 reports) La Vernia, Texas Lake Jackson, Texas Longview, Texas New Chapel Hill, Texas Plano, Texas Port Neches, Texas San Antonio, Texas (2 reports) Sulphur Springs, Texas Sunset Valley, Texas Trinity, Texas Watauga, Texas Willis, Texas West Valley City, Utah West Dummerston, Vermont Chatmoss, Virginia Henrico, Virginia Jonesville, Virginia Leesburg, Virginia Lincolnia, Virginia Mc Lean, Virginia Newport News, Virginia Onancock, Virginia Sterling, Virginia Williamsburg, Virginia La Conner, Washington Poulsbo, Washington Seattle, Washington Elkins, West Virginia Liberty, West Virginia Black Earth, Wisconsin Lake Delton, Wisconsin Oshkosh, Wisconsin Prairie Du Sac, Wisconsin Cheyenne, Wyoming