PlantFiles: Shasta Daisy
Leucanthemum x superbum 'Alaska'

This didn't last in my garden. I planted two of these in a perennial bed in 2006 and they came up beautifully last year. We had a very snowy and cold winter this past winter, and these two plants did not make it. They did, however, self seed, and I have a ton of seedlings. Very small seedlings, and I don't think I will see blooms this year. I'm pretty disappointed, considering they is supposed to be hardy to Z3, and I am Z5.

I do love this daisy when it is blooming...it's really gorgeous. It does flop and I would recommend staking or some sort of cage.

I began shasta daisy 'alaska' indoors before spring with seeds. I planted the seedlings in a pot and put outdoors in early spring. They grew wonderfully into beautiful greens. It is now the second day of fall and I have had no blooms. The plants have looked very healthy all summer, but now they seem to be wilting. I read somewhere that it can take 2-3 years to begin getting blooms. Does anyone know about this? What am I to do with the plant now? I've been told maybe I should cut it and bring it in for the winter. I've also been told to leave it alone and outside and it will be back next year. Any help?
Anna

Not my favorite daisy. It is tall and tends to flop, self-seeds everywhere, and subsequent blooms are smaller and fewer. My seed packet says hardy in zones 3-11. Light aids germination of seeds.

This plant is very hardy in zone 5. It comes back year after year and just gets better each time.

A pretty plant, but the foliage has (for me) a very unpleasant odor. It requires support to keep it upright.

Excellent cut flower! The plants need to be staked or caged to keep from falling over (due to heavy rain). I make cages out of chicken wire. Or, one can use stakes and make grids out of string or rope about 18 inches above the ground. The plants will grow between the grids for support, and keep the stems and flowers straight.

I have a chronic problem spot on my patio - an 18" X 60" bed of clay soil surrounded by cement with a southwest exposure - hot and dry. Planted seeds last year, got a small amount of short foliage. Transplanted a few plants to other spaces around the yard. Foliage did not completely die back in our northeast Ohio winter, zone 5b.

This spring they have come back with a vengence, especially in that patio bed. They are 30-plus inches tall, filled with blooms and buds and seem to thrive in the dry, clay soil. I tossed in a light feeding of slow release fertilizer early in the season and for all intents and purposes ignore them. They are huge. Very bushy and, so far, sturdy. Plants set in other locations are getting a bit ragged around the bottom, but that may be due to several weeks of heavy rains we experienced here early on - great for the roses but everything else was waterlogged.

Highly recommend these if you have a hot, dry problem spot with direct sun. Don't look for much the first year if you are starting from seed. I'm deadheading after 2 or 3 days, getting plenty of new flowers. I can see that I will have to thin these down at the end of the season if I don't want to be overrun with them next year.

Berea, Ohio

Great reliable plant with no special requirements. Blooms in full sun. May require some staking. Try a tomato cage in the spring before the plant gets too big. This will help most of the stems to stay upright. To delay flowering pinch or snip plant back. This method to delay flowering also works well with garden mums & produces a bushier plant. I don't find reseeding to be a big problem. Established clumps are easy to divide & transplant. A very undemanding plant.