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Hardiness: USDA Zone 4a: to -34.4 °C (-30 °F) USDA Zone 4b: to -31.6 °C (-25 °F) USDA Zone 5a: to -28.8 °C (-20 °F) USDA Zone 5b: to -26.1 °C (-15 °F) USDA Zone 6a: to -23.3 °C (-10 °F) USDA Zone 6b: to -20.5 °C (-5 °F) USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7 °C (0 °F) USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9 °C (5 °F) USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 °C (10 °F) USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 °C (15 °F) USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 °C (20 °F) USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 °C (25 °F) USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 °C (30 °F) USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 °C (35 °F)
Sun Exposure: Full Sun
Danger: Parts of plant are poisonous if ingested
Bloom Color: Orange
Bloom Time: Mid Summer Late Summer/Early Fall
Foliage: Herbaceous
Other details: This plant is attractive to bees, butterflies and/or birds Drought-tolerant; suitable for xeriscaping Self-sows freely; deadhead if you do not want volunteer seedlings next season
Soil pH requirements: 5.6 to 6.0 (acidic) 6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic) 6.6 to 7.5 (neutral)
Propagation Methods: By dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets) From seed; direct sow outdoors in fall From seed; winter sow in vented containers, coldframe or unheated greenhouse From seed; stratify if sowing indoors
Seed Collecting: Bag seedheads to capture ripening seed Allow pods to dry on plant; break open to collect seeds Properly cleaned, seed can be successfully stored
On Aug 8, 2008, cedar18 from Lula (North east), GA (Zone 7b) wrote:
I noticed a large patch had been mowed by the county when it was still blooming. Now, probably 6 weeks later, the plants are all up and blooming again! They managed this in all the weed and grass competition. I plan to cut mine back next year as others have mentioned here. This patch was mowed probably to 4 or 5" from the ground.
On Jul 14, 2008, Malus2006 from Coon Rapids, MN (Zone 4a) wrote:
Becoming much more common on the urban roadside compare to 10 years ago. Seem willing to seed itself even in fully established grasses. Loves dry grassland condition with plenty of sun. Tough to get establishment for me - none had survived. The picture I submitted above is a larger than usual patch at the Minnesota Arboretum - on roadside they are usually smaller but very eye catching - the only orange flowers except for wild lilies (species unknown but may includes wood lilies and tiger lilies) and tawny daylilies in mid to late summer on roadsides. Even then, lilies tend to be more common in rural areas.
On Jun 21, 2008, violentfemmexx1 from Cincinnati, OH wrote:
my sister had butterfly weed in her garden and i asked her to dig me up some. she told me that they do not transplant well. i bought seed packets from meijer and started them off using jiffy peat pellet greenhouse. they did well in the peat pellets but when i did transplant them into their new and permanent home, half of them died. very hard to transplant. start them off from seed where you want them to end up.
I have three plants grown from seed, no blooms yet but the posts above give me faith that next year will be a showstopper. There are already Monarchs fluttering by. The aphids don't hurt the plants a bit, but I hose them off when I do my weekly watering. I've planted a patch of dwarf tithonia cultivar close-by that's coming into bloom now (8/6, 7b), and am hoping to have a nice patch of Monarch-bait, and seeds to save for next year's crop.
On Oct 6, 2006, kqcrna from Cincinnati, OH (Zone 6a) wrote:
I wintersowed seeds last winter. Germination rate wasn't that high, but those that germinated grew to about 10 or 12 inches and bloomed in their first summer. Very pretty!
On Jun 14, 2006, CaptMicha from Brookeville, MD (Zone 7a) wrote:
In my opinion, this the perfect plant. I'm never bored with it. It's beautiful with flowers that have a glowing quality. And it's attractive with the seed pods also.
It's a good drought resistant plant. You just kind of forget about it and it rewards you more than other flowers that you have to take care of.
I find that the monarchs will lay their eggs more on the soft leaved milkweeds rather than the tuberosa. Or maybe what's happening is the larvae are moving to the softer leaved milkweeds.
Like a previous post said, it really does come into it's own in it's third year! The plant's tripled in size and it's covered with flower buds.
Last year it was growing under some other plants and wasn't doing so well but after I cleared them away to give it full sun, it really picked up.
On Jun 13, 2006, SummerSun06 from Townsend, MA (Zone 5b) wrote:
I am not a big fan of orange flowers in m garden but this is one of the few that I have to include. It is trouble free and reliable. Butterflies really do love it. A must-have in butterfly gardens that are lacking in plants for caterpillars to feed on. Raised beds and sandy soil work great for me.
On Jan 24, 2006, Gabrielle from Washington, IL (Zone 5a) wrote:
This is my favorite plant of the Asclepias family. It is really a nice height. I have read that it is hardy in zones 3-10. Light aids germination of seeds.
I transplanted my asclepias tuberosa in August after 3 years in the wrong spot. I got as much of the tap root as I could. I cut it back by about 1/3. All the leaves fell off but it got new growth from the base and has a bloom on it. I have had trouble with aphids on my curassavica but none on my tuberosa until I moved it to the back with the curassavica. My curassavica got to about 6' in height and when it finished blooming, I cut it back to about 3 feet. It is blooming and again. Next year I will pinch it back to make it branch and cut it back after blooming. My lantana and butterfly weeds are the bright spot in my garden at this time of year.
On Oct 27, 2005, Sarahskeeper from Brockton, MA (Zone 6a) wrote:
I've found that transplanting 1 year old plants can be tricky with that tap root. I plant them in groups of 3 or 5 about a foot apart so loosing one is no problem.
For best results, transplant just as they emerge in spring.
Andy P
On Jun 28, 2005, JaxFlaGardener from Jacksonville, FL (Zone 8b) wrote:
It self seeds easily. I started with one plant and now have about a dozen after one year. The seedlings can be transplanted without too much shock if you identify them early and move them to simailar growing conditions.
Last year was the first year I got flowers, but they were so covered with aphids that I couldn't tell the flowers from the aphids. I did not spray with insecticide, but tried to control them with hard sprays from the garden hose. I will be patient and try one more year, but if it continues I will move it to the back of the yard where I won't see the aphids, just the color. UPDATE: I still have an aphid problem but this year my plant has been host to many Monarch butterfly caterpillars. Made all the hassle worthwhile!
On Mar 8, 2005, maggiemoo from Conroe, TX (Zone 9a) wrote:
Don't sweat the aphids, that's one of the great "uses" of this plant! It does attract aphids, but the aphids don't hurt the plant. In return, the aphids stay off your roses and everything else, and they attract beneficials, such as ladybugs. Since I've had some of these in select areas of my rose bed, I've haven't seen even a hint of aphids on my roses!
They not only attract butterflies, especially Monarchs, they are the larval food of the Monarch butterfly - so leave those beautiful caterpillars be!
If you don't want them to re-seed, simply cut off the seed pod before it opens. My experience has been that the seedlings are easy enough to pull if they aren't where you want them to be.
I really love the flowers, so this plant is a hard "worker" in my garden - great looks, easy care, bug control, and butterfly nursery/attractant!
On Jan 1, 2005, missmuffit from Des Moines, IA (Zone 5a) wrote:
I was surprised how very easy it was to raise the cultivar 'Red Butterflies' from seed.
Each plant flowered and I got the bonus of seeing my first Monarch catepillar up close and personal. They completely ingested that one plant but I had several others for my viewing pleasure.
It makes me happy to know I am doing my part to continue the cycle of life - especially since the SOLE food source of the Monarch catepillar is milkweed. And urbanization is starting to deplete that wild food source.
A beautiful and exciting plant!
On Nov 10, 2003, suncatcheracres from Old Town, FL wrote:
Try planting this plant with Tithonia rotundifolia (a perennial often grown as an annual that self sows) as A. tuberosa provides food for the larval stage of Monarchs, but Tithonia, or Mexican Sunflower, provides nectar for the adults, and Tithonia's spectacular orange-red flowers attract the Monarchs to your garden in the first place.
I recently saw the two plants growing together in a lovely garden in Gainesville, Florida, and the plants were covered with butterflies. Their orange/yellow flowers go well together, and the usually taller Tithonia, to about six feet, looked nice behind the shorter Butterfly weed. There are also shorter cultivars of Tithonia that would look good mixed with the Butterfly Weed. And I think if they were planted all mixed together, the uneaten foliage of the Tithonia would somewhat hide the unsightly eaten-down foliage of the Butterfly Weed once the Monarch caterpillars had finished with it.
As for the orange colored aphids, a good spray with the hose, or just wiping them off with some damp paper towels, will do a lot to diminish their numbers. They never seem to actually harm the plants, but I don't like to see them in my garden either, so I try to get rid of them, rather than get rid of the plants.
On Nov 9, 2003, dogbane from New Orleans, LA (Zone 9a) wrote:
If you really feel the need to control the aphids, and your planting is too big to use mechanical control, use one of the oil or soap sprays. These are non-toxic and kill by covering the aphids breathing holes. It's easy enough to avoid spraying the caterpillars. In my garden, the monarch larvae seem to keep the plants stripped most of the time (no matter how much I plant), so the aphids don't have much of a chance to do damage.
On Oct 29, 2003, onalee from Brooksville, FL (Zone 9a) wrote:
Butterfly Weed is very prone to yellow oleander aphids - it pretty much comes with the territory. Some farmers use milk weed to draw aphids away from their crops. You can't spray insecticide or you will defeat the purpose of the milkweed - to raise Monarchs (among others.) I simply use a tissue and wipe them off from time to time, but they really don't hurt the plant or the caterpillars that I've found.
This is the first year I've had a butterfly garden, and I've raised 4 generations of Monarchs off of it this summer! A couple of weeks after one batch of caterpillars was gone, another would appear - always in groups. Make sure you get your seed pods EARLY in the year - my plants never bloomed again after June because they were constantly being eaten up - but I didn't mind because I loved watching the butterflies!
I planted Mexican Sunflower in with the milkweed to draw the adults to the area - it was a huge success! If you want Monarchs, you have to have milkweed and you have to let them eat it!
On Jul 9, 2003, nipajo from Dallas, TX (Zone 8b) wrote:
I love Butterfly Weed, but they are hard to dig out - I had them growing all over the place. This year I have most of them in pots. I'm trying the yellow variety this year and so far no insect problems.
On Nov 14, 2002, jkom51 from Oakland, CA (Zone 9b) wrote:
Vigorous growth, beautiful next to gentian sage, but just could not keep the aphids off it! Every three days they were back again no matter what I used. Finally uprooted it and tossed it out. My garden consists of numerous small beds, many different individual plants together -- this has been the only plant suffering such heavy insect infestation.
On Jul 27, 2002, DavidPat5 from Chicago, IL wrote:
Butterfly Weed takes three years to really flower but after that they're really dependable. The seed pods have small flat seeds with silk on one end used to scatter them. These plants come up late in spring; mark them so you don't dig them up! Cutting them back about six inches after the first bloom finishes will cause them to flower again. I did have a problem with Aphids a couple years back. I just sprayed them off with the garden hose.
On Dec 17, 2000, SMSpear1 from Saint Louis, MO (Zone 5b) wrote:
Butterfly Weed is a perennial wildflower. It is hardy to USDA Zone 3. The plant will grow to 2 to 3 feet in height and 15 to 24 inches wide.
It thrives in light, sandy, well drained soil with full sun. It requires little fertilizer. Butterfly Weed lives up to its name, attracting monarchs and other butterflies.
Regional...
This plant has been said to grow in the following regions:
Auburn, Alabama Trinity, Alabama Batesville, Arkansas Deer, Arkansas Morrilton, Arkansas Elk Grove, California Merced, California Santa Monica, California Colorado Springs, Colorado Wilmington, Delaware Bartow, Florida Bradley, Florida Brooksville, Florida Clearwater, Florida Fountain, Florida Hollywood, Florida Jacksonville, Florida Keystone Heights, Florida Niceville, Florida Old Town, Florida Oldsmar, Florida Sarasota, Florida Braselton, Georgia (2 reports) Carrollton, Georgia Savannah, Georgia Stone Mountain, Georgia Valdosta, Georgia Chicago, Illinois Edwardsville, Illinois Machesney Park, Illinois Palmyra, Illinois Washington, Illinois Fishers, Indiana Greenville, Indiana Logansport, Indiana Des Moines, Iowa Indianola, Iowa Marshalltown, Iowa Nichols, Iowa Urbandale, Iowa Sterling, Kansas Melbourne, Kentucky New Orleans, Louisiana Zachary, Louisiana Brookeville, Maryland Columbia, Maryland Brockton, Massachusetts Townsend, Massachusetts Dearborn Heights, Michigan Erie, Michigan Grass Lake, Michigan Pinconning, Michigan Port Austin, Michigan Minneapolis, Minnesota Rosemount, Minnesota Young America, Minnesota Carriere, Mississippi Madison, Mississippi Mathiston, Mississippi Cole Camp, Missouri St. Robert, Missouri Blair, Nebraska Lincoln, Nebraska Jamesburg, New Jersey Moorestown, New Jersey Bronx, New York Honeoye Falls, New York Newfield, New York Ronkonkoma, New York Stony Point, New York Durham, North Carolina Flat Rock, North Carolina Fuquay Varina, North Carolina Greenville, North Carolina Norlina, North Carolina Raleigh, North Carolina Rougemont, North Carolina Wake Forest, North Carolina Bellaire, Ohio Bucyrus, Ohio Cincinnati, Ohio (2 reports) Coshocton, Ohio Glouster, Ohio Bartlesville, Oklahoma Hulbert, Oklahoma Thackerville, Oklahoma Elkton, Oregon Roseburg, Oregon Albion, Pennsylvania Brookhaven, Pennsylvania Mount Joy, Pennsylvania Norristown, Pennsylvania Sayre, Pennsylvania Tunkhannock, Pennsylvania Wilkes Barre, Pennsylvania Columbia, South Carolina Conway, South Carolina Greenville, South Carolina Murrells Inlet, South Carolina Spartanburg, South Carolina Hixson, Tennessee Pocahontas, Tennessee Viola, Tennessee Alice, Texas Arlington, Texas (3 reports) Austin, Texas Brownsville, Texas Bulverde, Texas Conroe, Texas Dallas, Texas Deer Park, Texas Fort Worth, Texas Hereford, Texas La Vernia, Texas Longview, Texas Port Neches, Texas San Antonio, Texas Sulphur Springs, Texas Trinity, Texas Alexandria, Virginia Martinsville, Virginia Richmond, Virginia Sterling, Virginia Williamsburg, Virginia La Conner, Washington Poulsbo, Washington Liberty, West Virginia Cheyenne, Wyoming