Trading Primer: Section 4: Plant Trading

Section 4: Plant Trading How-To's

• What's an SASE? And how is it different from a trade?
  SASE stands for "self-addressed stamped envelope". Other countries refer to this as an SAE ("self-addressed envelope") Some traders offer their plants for SASE, instead of requesting an exchange. This can be very helpful for a beginning gardener, with few (or no) plants to trade.

  IMPORTANT: Plants for postage are not a true "SASE" even though a trader may advertise them as such. You will be asked to send postage, not the actual packaging that the plant(s) will be sent in.

• Somebody has the plants I want, what's next?
  • Do your homework. Will these plants grow in your zone and climate? If you don't know, find out before you ask for them. PlantFiles lists the hardiness zones for perennials, shrubs, trees and vines.
    • Read the entire thread. By the time you see a posting, all the plants may be spoken for. Make sure the trader hasn't posted a message notifying everyone they are out of plants.

    • Contact the trader. Reply to their posting, or via e-mail. Through Dave's Garden, you can click on the trader's name to initiate an e-mail to them. Some traders will request one or the other means of contact; honor their request if they have made one. If you send an e-mail, be specific about which plants you're wanting both in the subject line and your e-mail, as traders may be advertising several different offers simultaneously. Also ask how much postage to send. Current domestic shipping rates can be calculated at http://postcalc.usps.gov/
      IMPORTANT: DON'T SEND A PRE-PAID METERED LABEL in lieu of stamps - it is a violation of postal rules for someone else to use your metered label, and may delay or prevent the mailing of your plants.

  • What if the trader wants to trade for other plants?
    Determine if you have what they're looking for. If you don't have anything on their list, but you have something that is comparable in rarity and value to what they're offering/looking for, ask if they would consider an alternative.

    IMPORTANT: If a trader is offering rare exotic plants, chances are good they aren't looking for marigolds or petunias in return. Use good judgment in cases like this; if this is a plant you've searched high and low for, ask - politely - and be prepared for rejection. Who knows, you might luck out and find a generous trader with excess inventory! But if the trader refuses or doesn't respond, let it go - don't follow up with repeated e-mails.

  • How do I let people know what I have?
    • Set up your Tradelist. Dave's Garden has some excellent tools for tracking seed and plant trades. Your Tradelist lets you list seeds and plants you have for trade, will have for trade, or are looking for. Include the common and Latin names, the number of trades you are offering, and the status (available, will be available, looking for.)

      • Be specific - are these un-rooted cuttings, rooted starts, or established plants?

      • Latin,schmatin. Why bother? Because there are 10 unrelated plants called Firecracker Plant and because Ragged Robin is Centaurea to some, Lychnis to others. If you don't know the Latin name, PlantFiles allows you to search by common name to determine the Latin (botanical) name.

      • If you aren't sure what plant you have, post a photo and/or description in the Identification forum, and you'll get help determining the botanical name of your plant.

      • List the number of trades, and plants per trade in your description. Any other information you can add about the plant is helpful, including a hyperlink to a photo or description in your journal or the plants database.

    • Advertise. Post a message in the Plant Trading forum. Use the subject line to let people know a bit about what you have, then give some important details in the thread. If your list is extensive, direct them to your trade list for the details.

    • How many plants are considered a "fair trade"?

      • That depends on the plant - its size, age, and how rare it is. Unlike seeds, there aren't many rules to guide you here. But common sense dictates that if you are offering seedlings, include extras in case some don't make it.
        IMPORTANT: Very young seedlings are generally not good candidates for trading! Don't try to trade new seedlings you're thinning out - pot them up (if you have room) and trade them when they're large enough to set out.

        If you're offering a division of a mature plant, one good-sized division with plenty of roots is generally acceptable. Some traders go by weight - you can agree ahead of time that you'll fill a one-pound box, two-pound box, etc.

    • Keep up with your trades. Just as you wait anxiously for someone to respond to your request for seeds or plants, others who inquire will appreciate a prompt reply. Use the Dave's Garden TradeTracker when a trade is "in the works." This allows you to send out e-mail correspondence and keep track of your trades from start to finish.

• How do I prepare a plant to send?
  • Before you dig...

    • Communicate with the trader. Let your trader know in advance what day you plan to mail their plants. You don't want to the plants to arrive while they're on vacation.

    • Check the calendar. For shipping within the U.S. the best days to send out plants are Saturday, Monday or Tuesday. Try not to ship plants Wednesday, Thursday, or Friday, as they may have to sit over the weekend in a postal truck somewhere, sweltering in the summer, or freezing in the winter. Also take holidays into account, and try to make sure your package won't be en route over a holiday.

  • Sending unrooted cuttings. Unrooted cuttings can dry out quickly, and be "Dead on Arrival." But don't encase the entire cuttings in plastic wrap or a plastic bag, since rot will quickly set in. Here are some tips and tricks to sending them:
    • Paper towels + plastic bags + newspaper. At a minimum, wrap the cut end in well-soaked (but not dripping) paper towels, wrap in a small plastic bag or plastic wrap, securing at the "neck" with tape or rubber band. Roll the foliage in a "cone" of newspaper, similar to how street vendors wrap bouquets.

    • Pill bottles + cotton. Wrap the stems in wet cotton, stuff in a pill bottle and making sure the cotton is completely saturated. Enclose the bottle in plastic wrap or a small plastic bag, and use a twist-tie to secure where the stem enters the bottle.

    • Florist tubes. You can purchase small tubes from florists or wholesalers for a few pennies each. These are meant to securely hold a flower stem and water inside a bouquet. To ensure the water doesn't escape, it's best to still encase the tube in plastic wrap or a plastic bag and twist tie where the stem enters the tube.

  • Sending rooted cuttings. Rooted cuttings can look as fresh as the day they were dug if some simple steps are taken when packaging them.

    • Dirt - remove it or leave it? This is a decision you must make. Some states and foreign countries require that all soil be washed from the roots before a plant can be sent. If that is the case, treat them similar to an unrooted cutting for packaging. Use sterile peat moss, water-absorbing gel capsules, moist sawdust or shredded newsprint to provide extra moisture and cushion to the roots while in transport.
      • If you remove the dirt, be sure to give the packaging material time to absorb water; for example, peat is notoriously slow to become saturated.

      • Adding a bit of diluted fertilizer or B1 to the soaking water will also help give the plants a boost to overcome transplant shock.

    • Paper towels + plastic bags + newspaper. As with unrooted cuttings, this is the minimum that should be done for rootballs with soil attached. Wrap the rootball in well-soaked (but not dripping) paper towels, then in a small plastic bag or plastic wrap, securing at the stem base with tape or rubber band. Roll the foliage in a "cone" of newspaper, similar to how street vendors wrap bouquets.

    • Aluminum foil pockets. You can also use aluminum foil to make a pocket for the rooted cuttings. Fold the foil in half, and tuck the rootball into the folded area, then continue to fold the aluminum around, pressing firmly to remove any air pockets. Roll the foliage in a "cone" of newspaper, similar to how street vendors wrap bouquets.

  • Sending bulbs, tubers, or rhizomes.
    • Dormant. If they are already dug, make sure they are free from rot and dust with sulphur if appropriate. Pack loosely in peat moss, sawdust or Styrofoam packing "peanuts." Plastic shopping bags work great for holding dormant bulbs and packing material inside a box.

    • Growing. Cutting off top growth is dependent on the plant. Iris plants can be divided after flowering; the fans can be cut back to 6-8", the rhizomes brushed free of dirt and sent. Unless dormant, most bulbs should be packaged as you would for live rooted cuttings. For water lilies, remove the mature leaves and stems, leaving any new buds that are appearing. Package as you would for a live, rooted cutting (see above.).

      A special note for daylilies: daylilies can be dug and sent year-round, although disturbing them immediately prior to blooming is not recommended. If the plant is dormant, you can wash/brush off the dirt, allow them to dry and send them dry, or brush the excess dirt off, and pack in moist (not dripping) paper towels. Do not seal them up, as rot can set in quickly, especially in summer heat. U pon arrival, non-dormant daylilies (especially those sent dry) should be allowed to soak overnight in a weak fertilizer solution before planting. This will aid in their quick recovery.

  • Label the plant. The sender will need to know the name of the plant, especially if you're sending multiple plants. Transplanting or growing instructions are also very helpful to include. A permanent laundry marker ("Sharpie") is great for marking on masking tape or labels to place on each plant. Some traders send plastic plant tags with each plant, which is an extra-nice treat for the recipient, especially if the tag is pre-labeled. The plant and tag can be set out at the same time.

• Keep your list updated.

  • This is one of the most important aspects of plant trading, and will prevent you from overtrading. If you use the Tradelist feature of DG, you can change the number of plants available as you fulfill trades. A few minutes spent on this task will prevent disappointment for you and those who want to trade with you. When you indicate zero plants available, that item will no longer show up on your tradelist. This is a handy feature, because it "hides" it from view, but allows you to re-use the entry when you have more plants available.

• I'm ready to send my plants. Now what?
  • Prepare your shipping package.
    • Priority Mail boxes from the USPS. Pros: Approved by the USPS. Free. Re-usable - remove or cover old labels and canceled postage first. Cons: Cannot use a Priority Mail box to ship via any other means (United Parcel Service, or USPS 2nd class mail.)

    • Other boxes. Any sturdy shipping box will work. Notice we said sturdy. Some traders have reported receiving plants shipped in flimsy "cereal box" type boxes, and you can imagine the shape they arrive in. Pros: Can re-use boxes you have available. Cons: Some boxes create sturdiness through bulk, which can add to your shipping costs. Whatever you use, make sure they're capable of withstanding the trip.

    • Bubble wrap envelope. Can be used for smaller "slips" of plants and cuttings. Pros: less expensive than sending a box. Cons: Can suffocate or rot. Make sure any foliage on small cuttings are wrapped with tissue paper or newspaper so the plant is not touching the plastic bubble wrap inside the package.

    • Cushioning material. Packing peanuts, old plastic shopping bags, crumpled newspaper and shredded paper are all commonly used to cushion plants inside boxes, ensuring the plant isn't jostled during shipping. Some traders tape or staple the plant's outer wrapping to the side of the box to hold the plant in place. If you use plastic bags, be sure the plant has an outer wrap of newspaper around it to keep it from direct contact with the plastic, otherwise, the plant may suffocate or rot.

    • Seal the package. Use tape designed for shipping. Do not use masking tape or "Scotch" transparent tape. Make sure the tape will stick even if the box gets wet or hot (some tapes give out in extreme weather.) Use enough tape to seal all the flaps, and double up if the box seems heavy for its size.

    • Address the box. Sounds simple, and it is. If you're shipping your plant Priority Mail, you can print off your label from their website: Hyperlink. When you use this site, you also get free delivery confirmation, a savings of $.40! For any other delivery service , be sure to use a waterproof marker ("Sharpie") in a dark color. Clearly and legibly write the recipient's name and address on the outside of the box. On a typical size box, the name and address should be legible from even a few feet away. It's a good idea to repeat the address on the sides or bottom of the box, in case it gets turned on edge or upside down in transit.

      If you're recycling a box, make sure any old address labels are removed or completely marked through to avoid delivery mix-ups.

  • Send the plants. Prompt fulfillment of your trades will help establish you as a good trader. Once a date has been established to send them, be sure you fulfill the order on time.

  • Send them an e-mail. This is built into the TradeTracker, and allows you to send off an e-mail letting the trader know you've sent their plants. At the same time, this step will move your trade to the next status, which is waiting to receive your plant(s) from them. If this completes the trade (if it was for postage, or you've already received plants from them), you can edit the trade to mark it completed.

• Get to know your mail carrier. If you are not usually home during the day, make it a point to communicate with your mail carrier, and suggest a shaded, protected spot where he/she can leave any boxes you receive. Or arrange with a neighbor who's home to check for boxes if you're expecting one. This is especially true in the hottest and coldest months, when live plants can perish if left for a day on a porch or in your mailbox.

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