Viewing tabasco's Garden Diary: Propagation Notes and Info

Sunday, April 24, 2011

How to start Aquilegia (Columbines) from J.L. Hudson

Paracelsus is right about the common cultivars - many do not need any prechill. Many of the species do need a prechill - probably a minimum of 4 weeks, 8 weeks is usually better. GA-3 gives good germination for many of the dormant kinds. As for 2006 seed, two-year old seed of some Aquilegias will germinate better than fresh - the dormancy diminishes with aging, and they won't need as much cold or GA-3. Figure Aquilegias will give you good germination for 5 years unless stored in a hot humid place.

Broadcasting outdoors now should be fine. I think you will end up with plenty of nice plants

Friday, May 28, 2010

Directions with Pictures Bubbler & Basic Cuttings

Basic Cuttings propagation from Rainy Side Nursery: //www.rainyside.com/archives/cuttings.html

And a very good pictorial on setting up a Bubbler propagation system from heathjoy's diary [[email protected]]

Sunday, May 23, 2010

Salvia from cuttings

dufresne z7 NC (My Page) on Tue, Apr 18, 06 at 20:56

The simplest method is to take cuttings down to green wood, not tip growth with weak stems, or stems with bark forming. I use the "asparagus" method to determine the point to cut the stem. If you grasp the stem below the point where bark forms, then bend the top back, you should see the area where the tip growth stops being supple and stiffens. This is the area where you make the cut. The bottom third of the cutting will have its leaves stripped off. It is good to have a node or two under the rooting medium, since side shoots will start from these points and allow the plant to form secondary leader stems. If the plant gets sheared at ground level, it will have a much better chance to send out new growth.
The stock plant should be in a rapid growth stage for optimal cuttings. If it is dormant, the cuttings will take forever to root and be weak.

Use a sterile medium like vermiculite or perlite, definitely not water or soil as the rooting medium. Bottom heat at 70 to 80 degrees will speed the rooting. I don't use rooting hormone any more, but fungicide might still be useful, especially if the rooting medium is cold and wet.

It usually takes 2 weeks or more for cuttings to root, and another 2-3 weeks for the plant to develop a good root system.

Monday, November 9, 2009

Root Cuttings for Anemone and Dicentra

We find the taller white Japanese anemone 'Honorine Jobert" to be very floppy (and later) in the shade, as in the post above, but not this shorter, earlier pink anemone.

Propagation by root cutting is a good way to propagate this plant. (This anemone does not often transplant well for me). The Handbook on Propagation from the Brooklyn Botanic Garden Vol 13, No 2, printed March 1981 on page 52 says it well:

"...a few large, strong roots are removed from the plant (it may be necessary to lift the plant to do this) and cut into pieces 1 to 2 inches long. The pieces are laid horizontally in sandy soil and covered to a depth of about 1 inch. Some root cuttings will develop shoots at the end which was nearest the parent stem, and roots at the other end; others develop roots and shoots anywhere along their length."

This method is useful also for: Dicentra spectabilis - soon after growth starts; Gypsophilia paniculata - fall or spring; Oenothera spp.; and Papaver orientalis - late summer (August when it's dormant here).