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Can someone ID this ?

Frankfort, KY(Zone 6a)

My wife bought it for me while in Ohio.
I'm new with Carnivorous Plant and need to know where I can find info on how to care for this one.
I guess, like all plants there are many types of pitchers, the closes I can come is a Nepenthes sanguinea.
There are 3 plants in the pot, can I separate them and how ?
What is the temp range this plant can take ?
The instructions that came with it was to put water in the pitchers and keep the soil moist. I used rain water.
I hang it next to my rabbit cages and it has caught many insects, so 'It's Working' ^^_^^
Thanks for any info. Dwight

Thumbnail by rentman
Hammond, LA(Zone 8b)

Not sure about the other questions, but definitely ONLY use rainwater if possible. I think you can use distilled water if no rainwater is available.

Newcastle, WA(Zone 8b)

This is Nepenthes ventrata, a hybrid between N. ventricosa and N. alata.

You can separate the plants, but make sure that you have a good soil mix to use. They don't like regular potting soil, and nothing with any plant food in it. It should be easily draining, and neutral materials. We use silica sand, long fiber sphagnum moss, orchid bark, and coarse perlite, with some tree fern root. Many growers use just the LFS moss, orchid bark and perlite. When you separate the plants, make sure to protect the very fine, fragile roots. If the plants are attached to each other, you can cut them apart as long as you leave a good root system on each.

You might not need to put water in the traps, as mine keep water in them without my help. It depends on humidity and other factors. For example, you might find that the pitchers don't maintain water after you separate them, and until they become established again. Rain water is good, so is distilled or RO filtered.

Good growing,

Poughkeepsie, NY(Zone 6a)

Yes, keep the soil moist, don't sit it in rainwater like other CPs need. Mine get bright filtered Sun. Google Care for Nepenthes ventrata and read away!

Frankfort, KY(Zone 6a)

Thanks Ron and Tommy for the info.
After I separate them I may hang on in the kitchen skylight, my wife hates flys but will not kill one. ?

Frankfort, KY(Zone 6a)

I collect rain water in 3 barrels for my garden, but it runs off the roof.
For my house plants I collect it in plastic totes set in the open.

Frankfort, KY(Zone 6a)

Well I got it separated and re potted.
Boy what a pain, the pitchers started spilling, so I empty all of them.
The pitchers tangled and hanging all over the place, but I got the job done.
I have never seen a plant that grows like this one. The new leaves grow from the bottom next to the soil ???? New leaves produce the new (small) pitchers. Very odd but I guess all CP are odd compared to most others.
I'm learning, this is my first CP.
A pic of me in the garden earlier this year.

Thumbnail by rentman
Newcastle, WA(Zone 8b)

Hi rentman,

Actually, no. The new pitchers grow from long tendrils on the tips of new leaves which always emerge from the growth point, the tip of the plant. If you see new leaves growing from the base of the plant, or even from below the soil surface, those are brand new plants, known as basals. They will grow out and develop into basal rosettes. Eventually, they can be separated from the mother plant, as long as they develop their own root systems. Or, if large enough, they can be cut off and rooted in live sphagnum moss in plastic bags to hold the humidity. I usually dip the cutting in a rooting hormone first. However, separating them is always optional, and I sometimes leave them to grow out with the mother plant. They look fuller, as your plants did in your original photo.

Good growing,

Frankfort, KY(Zone 6a)

Well this plant had 3 or 4 small leave growing from the base with small pitchers on them which I trimmed off when re potting.
The largest leaves and largest pitchers are coming from the top of the plant.
I will watch it grow and see.....
Big Thanks for all the info.....Dwight

Tampa, FL(Zone 9b)

This is the best starter CP, especially for a Nepenthes. They can handle temps down to 35 degrees with no wind. Then bring it in the house. If you keep it inside in light, it should be happy too. Mine hang in the orange tree and come in when we hit freezing.

If you have small leaves and pitchers coming from the soil, you may have a new plant forming at the base. It should be in a rosette shape. The main plant will produce longer leaves and bigger pitchers.

Frankfort, KY(Zone 6a)

Thanks for the input, starsplitter7
I think I lost one of the big splits I made, no roots on it and it is fading away.
But I have a nice one and two small ones that are looking good.
I hang the big one in front of the rabbit hutch (lots of flies)

I lived in W. Palm Beach for over 50 years, my wife wants to go back, well women ^_^

A photo of an okra flower

Thumbnail by rentman
Tampa, FL(Zone 9b)

I like Florida, but I also like places with seasons. :)

I grow okra too, and think it has a gorgeous. Almost rivals a hibiscus. I don't even eat okra. :)

If the second Nepenthes isn't doing very well because of the lack of roots, you can root it. Nepenthes ventrata is one of the easiest to root. They are discussing rooting Nepenthes.

I would cut vines of the N. ventrata, dip them in rooting hormone, and then either put them in rain water or put in pure perlite with no fertilizer. They will root. Keep moist and in the same sunny condiitons as the adult plant. Sometimes it takes 6 weeks or more, just be patient. I have even put brown vines with no green and they have growns plants. It is an easy way to get new plants.

Frankfort, KY(Zone 6a)

WOW thanks, it's out of the peat moss and into perlite with some rooting hormone.
I just love Daves Garden

Tampa, FL(Zone 9b)

When I am doing a cutting, I will take a 6-8' vine, and cut it into 6" pieces. I remove the bottom leaves, cut the top leaves in half unelss they have a pitcher, then dip in rooting hormone and put in perlite or water. Works pretty well. If I was an attentive gardener, I would probably have a 80-90% success rate. I usually come through with about 50%. N. ventrata is a great plant. A hybrid that is very easy going. :)

north coast nsw, Australia

Rentman- did you put the water back into your pitchers when you tipped it out? They'll dry up and die quickly otherwise.

Frankfort, KY(Zone 6a)

Yes I refilled the pictures with rain water.
A few of the pictures are turn brown at the top, is this normal ?

Tampa, FL(Zone 9b)

The pitchers last about 3 months, sometimes longer, so they all turn burn and die. You cut it off at the tendrill, and then the plant will grow new ones. Also only put liquid in the pitchers, if you accidently dump the pitcher. The pitcher produces its own solution of enzymes, and so it is important not to dilute it with water. I usually only put in about 1/3 or less of pitcher of water.

north coast nsw, Australia

Yeah rentman said he dumped the water from the pitchers. Just checking he put more in. What starsplitter said is right!
You never need to put water in your pitchers unless you tip it out... like if there posted in the mail. I 1/3 fill them and then check in a day or so because sometimes they suck it up and you need to add a little more, just until its 1/3 full.
Yes if your pitchers been open a while it will eventually go brown and die. When you cut it off (see pic where) another pitcher WONT grow from that same leaf but another more middle leaf. Eventually the outer leaves without pitchers will yellow off and you can cut these off also as they die.
Hows your C.P's starsplitter? What season are you in?

Thumbnail by breeindy
Tampa, FL(Zone 9b)

We are heading into fall, but that means the temps dropped to the mid nighties and only 90 % humidity. I can go outside without passing out. :)

Did you see the thread with my plants a couple days ago? They have a hard time in the summer heat and winter dry. But they do well in the spring and fall.

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