Welcome to the Irrigation Systems Discussion Forum!

Benton, KY(Zone 7a)

Here you go...a forum just for irrigating your gardens and containers.

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Sacramento, CA(Zone 9a)

Thank you!

Benton, KY(Zone 7a)

You're quite welcome!

If you run across any existing threads that we can move over here, let me know.

Carmel, IN(Zone 5b)

Thank you!!!!!

Josephine, Arlington, TX(Zone 8a)

Excellent, we really needed this, thank you very much.

Everett, WA(Zone 8a)

Thank you.

Dillon, SC(Zone 7b)

Thanks, Melody and Administration, for this new forum. I'm really looking forward to learning how to go about drip irrigating my many flower beds. Even if I could hook up a hose to drip lines in my beds it would beat having to drag hoses all over the yard and stand there watering each plant. However, I would prefer an automatic system that would do the watering with a timer--maybe watering a different zone each day. We live in the country and have a big yard and a shallow well (only about 28 ft. deep) that supplies our home with water. When we're experiencing a drought DH is concerned that watering the plants outside might cause our well to go dry...therefore, I'm especially interested in using grey water for drip irrigation. Does anyone know how to go about planning such a system?

Emerald Hills, CA(Zone 9b)

sos210_14, Sounds like grey water would be a good thread for this forum. I'm very interested in it too.... even though, technically, it's not legal where I live.

Cleburne, TX(Zone 8a)

learning how to go about drip irrigating my many flower beds

I have used Netafim drip system in my flowerbeds and have been very pleased. http://www.netafimusa.com/landscape/products . We converted 2 zones of our spinkler system a year ago. Also have a 40-foot long bed of shrubs watered with Netafim and just hook a hose up to that one. I'm hoping to learn more about timers from this forum.

Re: grey water - Seems like soaker hoses or Netafim would work because both require about the same pressure. A local ag store has a 1000-gallon rainwater cistern hooked up to regular soaker hoses that water all the beds in front of the store and it seems to work great. If you had a storage tank for the grey water that would generate the needed pressure just from gravity, it should work the same.


Dillon, SC(Zone 7b)

DNP, thanks for the link to Netafimusa. I know so little about irrigation--soaker hoses are the closest I've come to drip irrigation--but a quick look at their website makes me think they might be the Cadillac of drip irrigation. I'm so excited about this new forum. We're surely going to find the help we need to improve our gardening-- there are so many experts here who are so gracious and willing to share their expertise! Thanks for sharing yours.


Cleburne, TX(Zone 8a)

To change a zone of our sprinkler system to Netafim drip irrigation, we selected an existing spray riser that was near the bed we wanted to use Netafim, capped off all the other heads on that zone and then removed existing sprinkler head and installed a 1800-RetroXerigation Retrofit Kit by RainBird on the one riser for Netafim. The word "kit" makes it sound like multiple parts but it is one piece that looks similar to spray head. Attached photo shows it and the 2 adapter parts the guys at professional supplier recommended to hook up Netafim. Those parts are listed on my invoice as "3/4 x 1/2 PVC Red Bushing" and "Dripline Adapter Tee 3/4 ft x ins". We used Netafim tubing that's made with .09 gallons per hour emitters spaced 12 inches apart.

I'm sure there are other retrofit kits available that may be less expensive. The RainBird was $21.64. But it was the only one I could find locally that I could see and touch and ask questions of the professional supplier and know was going to work !! We've been using two zones we converted for over a year now with no problems other than me forgetting to change length of watering time on the system controller after a rain and things getting way too wet. I just kind of forget the Netafim zones because you don't see anything happening. LOL.

I've tinkered with my original installation by installing a few in-line valves in the Netafim so I can manually turn off certain sections of a zone that don't need water as often because they're in semi-shade, etc. Each zone is installed in a loop of about 200 feet of Netafim running around approximately one-fourth of my house. Trying to make a sketch now before installation of further zones to have the valve system work better.


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Cleburne, TX(Zone 8a)

Photo of how the retrofit head and parts go together.

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Cleburne, TX(Zone 8a)

Look at the very bottom of the photo to see the Retrofit head installed.

This message was edited Oct 29, 2010 5:45 AM

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Alba, TX(Zone 8a)

Yes! Thank you from me, too!

I'm just getting started with several drip irrigation applications. I've always found these systems to be very interesting!

Lynnwood, WA(Zone 7a)

I appreciate very much having this new forum. While I have much knowledge to share there is still so much I need to learn. Thanks

Dillon, SC(Zone 7b)

DNP, thank you for describing how you converted a zone of your sprinkler system to Netafim. I am totally ignorant re. anything more sophisticated than a hose with a nozzle or a soaker hose so I don't understand much about Retrofit kits or adapters, but I intend to learn. I think the best thing might be to find someone who knows how to go about setting up a system for one bed and perhaps I can learn by watching. What is Xerigation? Is that a brand name and is it supposed to use a minimal amount of water? Sort of like Xeriscape?

Cleburne, TX(Zone 8a)

What is Xerigation?

Xerigation is a Rainbird line of products, I believe. We didn't know a thing about how to convert a zone of our system and it was the first thing I found that looked really simple. I was not comfortable with ordering something on line and not being able to first hold it in my hand and understand it !! The professional irrigation supply house had to order the first one for me but now they stock them all the time.

I'm told you cannot have any of the sprayers in the zone still functioning as sprayers and also have the Netafim working. Have to cap off all the heads in the zone except the one you're hooking up to Netafim. To cap off the heads, unscrew the spray head, screw in a "riser" (a short piece of plastic pipe threaded on both ends) and screw on a plastic cap. You could glue all this but I wanted the ability to later change things if it didn't work out, so I used the threaded riser and cap. Also, the Netafim needs to have a T installed somewhere with a cap on it to use to flush the system or drain it entirely in extreme freezing weather.


Running Springs, CA(Zone 7a)

Hooray! Thanks for this forum.

Charlotte, NC(Zone 7b)

I just found this forum. Thanks to those who asked DG for it :)

I garden on a slope, and all the sites that sell drip systems seem to recommend them for nice, flat areas.

I'm confused about all the differing terms, elbows, splitters, tees, etc. Makes my head ache!

Lynnwood, WA(Zone 7a)

Honey, start with a kit. Just putting your hands on and following instructions will teach you a lot. I am still learning after 10 years of working with it. I am not in favor of "drippers" but use the low volume sprinklers. The soaker hoses can be good too. If your first project is hanging baskets or pots you will feel really accomplished when you are done. It's a good way to lay the ground work for your learning curve. All systems need the antisyphon device and pressure reducer except the driphoses. They just need the antisyphon device. The things just have regular hose threads, nothing complicated.

Charlotte, NC(Zone 7b)

I've been thinking of buying this:


With this kit:


What do you think?

Lynnwood, WA(Zone 7a)

I think that is a good way to start. I really like the "easy lock" fittings because they can be reused. I wish I had started with them. My experience for so many years was with non reusable ones. If I made a mistake or wanted to revise something I had to cut the line and use a new fitting. (The old one can be reused if you take the trouble to pull them apart but it isn't easy and I have always worried that they may be damaged.) If the tape can be cut to required lengths that is good. Soaker hoses winding through the garden have proven to be somewhat of a nuisance to me. I'll read the sites more thoroughly if you have more specific questions. I have never used the tape. I want to make one thing clear-there are soaker hoses and drip hoses. The tape appears to be the soaker type. I don't like drip because it tends to create channels rather than distribute the water over the surface.

Alba, TX(Zone 8a)

HoneybeeNC, I bought from Dripworks last year for a tree project. Their customer service dept was very helpfull. They were willing to answer some of the most insane questions with a smile in their voice. I'm looking at the "T" tape kit for this year. I've been using soaker hoses but am falling out of love with them fast.

Lynnwood, WA(Zone 7a)

What's your dissatisfaction with the soaker hoses terry?

Oceanside, CA

Hi, I'm Carl114

I;m prepping my backyard for 5000 gallons of rainwater storage to water my upcoming raised beds and a 60'x20' cloverfield for meat rabbits and chickens.

This looks like a great forum with lots of info, I'll be checking in with questions and problems I'm sure.

Mount Hawthorn, Australia

Thanks for information.....

Alba, TX(Zone 8a)

Oh, I'm sorry! I just caught up with this post and must have missed the request to clarify my dissatisfaction with soaker hoses. Here in the very hot TX sun they seem to disintegrate or break apart faster than I remember up north. Also, there is this wire weed or wire grass (I think that is what it is called) that will get ahold of the soaker hose and root in it and then make it very difficult to pull up and re-use. And then there is the matter of part of the hose will start really shooting out the water and the other part just gives up. So I was replacing soaker hoses almost every year whereas I am reusing the T-tapes and drip lines move going of three-four years now.

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