re-seeding question

sun city, CA(Zone 9a)

i have new little crimson ramblers coming up around the parent plants. i let some seeds drop for next year and collected some but didnt think they would grow this late. they are all going to die in the first frost arent they?

(Zone 7a)

Hi RC,

Yup, frost will do them in. But since Crimson Rambler is a cultivar of Ipomoea purpurea, there's a very good chance that once your winter passes and warm temps return, that you may get oceans of more volunteers.

Usually, it's useful to have a sideways picture of a mg flower that shows the sepals for ID, since what is true of one species isn't necessarily true of another. There's some information on what is a sepal in the sticky index, along with a link showing sepals to I. purpurea, I. nil and I. tricolor and how they differ from each other.

Without a picture, advice can only be a guess.

We enjoy those purpureas in our garden, too - without their volunteers last summer, we wouldn't have had any mg flowers at all.

sun city, CA(Zone 9a)

i am only calling them that because someone on this forum told me that was their name. i had no clue before that. here is a pic

Thumbnail by risingcreek
(Zone 7a)

Oh, wow! I grow my purps in a lot of shade, so your vine gives a meaning to the verb Bloom that I never see here - gorgeous pic, thank you.

anyhoo, see those short, stubby leaflet-like thingies at the base of the top flower? Those are the sepals, and they match what sepals of Ipomoea purpurea are s'posed to look like here - . This is from the 1st paragraph under IDENTIFICATION in the sticky.

Thank you for humoring me - the sepal tour probably wasn't necessary - but it is said that sepals are the most certain means of ID, given that other parts of morning glory anatomy can vary much more.

sun city, CA(Zone 9a)

i am trying to learn as much as possible so everything you said is greatly appreciated. i had never planted mgs before and just totally fell in love with them. i plan to plant lots more next year, the flowering lasted for months, they covered a really ugly fence, the color was amazing, i just cant say enough about how wonderful they are. they did totally cover a some plants so i will use a bit more discretion when planting next year. unfortunately, in another part of the property, rabbits ate them as fast as they came up. have to figure out how to stop that because they would look great on the fence in the front of the property. it is sunny and hot here for months, maybe that helps the flowering.

(Zone 7a)

rc, some folks (including me sometimes) put cylinders of chicken wire around their mg seedlings when they plant them out to protect against rabbit, mouse, chipmunk chompings. Personally, a teepee of small sticks around my seedlings (at the 4-true leaf stage at least) has worked okay.

If I'm growing something really precious to me, I'll go the extra precautionary mile. For example, if I only have one or a few seeds of a very special plant, I'll start them indoors using the baggy method (see sticky index); as soon as the backs of the germinating seeds appear in their pots, out they go for immediate exposure to the sun somewhere mice etc. can not get to (bird netting over hoops over the seedlings works for me). I time germination to coincide with warm night temps, which for me is 2nd week of May, regarding Ipomoea species and cultivars. This is too late for most seeds to ripen outdoors before 1st autumn frost, but I love the generous spirit of these vines flinging themselves over arbors and garden paths. To ripen seeds, I cut stems with immature pods and ripen in water indoors (see sticky and recent off topic posts in Dany's thread). Otherwise, best to use pots if you want seeds (see sticky for containers).

I guess I'm being wordy again.

Anyhoo, you might like to try other species of MGs. I have found Ipomoea purpurea vines not to be as susceptible to rust as Ipomoea nil vines (I. nil may be the worst for rust disease - many other mg species do not get that rust in my garden). The sticky has some info on various mg genera, species & cultivars, as well as on rust disease. Following are some links just for pics to get a feeling for what makes nils and purpureas special in their own rights -

Ipomoea nil -

Ipomoea purpurea -

Patootie's Morning Glories 2011 #18 thread has a few other mg species here - - Debra, do I see Ipomoea alba (moonflower vine, and there are many other species of moonflower vine), Ipomoea ochracea, Ipomoea hederifolea var lutea among your posts in there? What's that one with vewwwwwwwy teenytiny flowers (something like Ipomoea magnussiana (spelling?)? RC, now's your chance to give dg PlantFiles a twirl :)

Well, hope I said something useful - since you mentioned covering an "ugly fence", I thought it was high time to go on about which species the rust disease most and least favors - it'll vary from one place to another - these are just general guidelines.


sun city, CA(Zone 9a)

this is so cool, i love reading all the links and learning about them. have to see what rust is, i have no clue.
in my newbieness i thought since MGs were poisonous the rabbits wouldnt touch them. learned the hard way that isnt true.
chicken wire sounds good, will do that next year. i have about 200 ft of fence out front i want to cover next year and can think of nothing more beautiful than MGs all along it, especially if they bloom like this year. i have a few hundred seeds saved so i hope that is good start. i also want to put different ones in different places throughout the property.
thank you so much and you will never be to wordy for me.

(Zone 7a)

You're welcome - let's thank the many gardeners who have passed through here and shared their knowledge and experience - I indexed some of it in this forum's sticky index.

ps - about rust - there's an entry in the sticky index. I just want to point out that, in my garden, I choose not to use the systemic Bayer chemical(s) in my garden, because some scientists strongly suspect that there's an ingredient in the Bayer chemical that may be responsible for the disappearance of so many honey bees (Colony Collapse Disorder? and other bees?). So, I just pick off rust-infected leaves and so far have been fortunate that new vines grow in the old leaf axils of the old vines, thus keeping the vines alive and flowers coming. For some gardeners, though, the new growth does not come fast enough to prevent their vines from dying. For me, this is mainly an issue with Ipomea nil, and not with other species of morning glories.

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