Need Help to Re-bloom Florida Amaryllis for Holidays

Deltona, FL(Zone 9b)

Dear fellow gardeners,
I am posting this in both the Florida Gardening forum and the Amaryllis and Hippeastrums forum because I grow amaryllis in central Florida.
I have hundreds of amaryllis and I’d like to sell a few. Unfortunately the best market time is the November and December Holidays and I am unable to persuade any of my bulbs to bloom then. They won’t even put in an appearance for Valentine’s Day.
For the past several years I have tested various methods with no success. This last season I tested 33 bulbs 2.75” in diameter or larger. Unpot in mid-August. Then dry and dark with good air circulation. Note: it’s hard to do “cool” and dry and dark storage in Florida. Attics, garages and barns are like ovens and we generally don’t have basements. Repot after 8 – 10 weeks.
13 bulbs have done absolutely nothing. 1 is still dormant as of May 9 although the bulb is solid and green with good roots. The rest have bloomed but none before Valentine’s Day. I actually had bulbs that wintered outside bloom before the bulbs being tested for the winter Holidays!
So - does anyone have a history of successfully reblooming amaryllis – in time for the Holidays - in central or south Florida?
How do you do it?


Thumbnail by Wyckoff
Lee's Summit, MO(Zone 6a)

Nope - mine all bloom in early spring.

Niles, MI(Zone 5a)

I live in southwestern Michigan, when mine are thru blooming, usually in March (all are in the east window, inside) I let the leaves grow and give them fertilizer, I use Osmacote, then in Sept I cut off the leaves and place them in the bottom of an old refrigerator for two and a half months, to chill out. I get most of mine from a dutch bulb grower near here and that is their method. So far it has worked

Deltona, FL(Zone 9b)

Interesting but I have far too many for 1 refrigerator. I have a 16’ x 16’ greenhouse crammed full and at least the same in oversized cold-frames.

I’m trying to make a business of an out-of-control hobby. I need to time blooms for the traditional Thanksgiving to Christmas market.

Still it would be fun to try with a couple of my breeding stock bulbs.

When you cut the leaves, do you leave the bulbs in their pots?

When temperature is the frig set at?

Any other details I should know?



Lee's Summit, MO(Zone 6a)

Contact link:

Commercial Growing Instructions

Hadeco® Amaryllis are easy to produce in a short period of time. To ensure the most efficient and consistent growth in your greenhouse follow these simple tips:

1. Pre-Forcing Storage

Hadeco® Hippeastrums may be stored until end January under ideal conditions:
Temperature: 9°C (48°F) is ideal
Never lower than 5°C (41 °F)
Temperatures higher than 12°C (54°F) will progressively initiate sprouting
Humidity: 65% to 70% ideally
Too low and the roots will dry out; too high and mould will form on the roots (not harmful, and can be removed by brushing)
Humidity can be increased simply by pouring water on the floor in the room used for storage
Check roots weekly to ensure they are not becoming brittle (humidity too low)
Ventilation: some fresh air as well as internal circulation is required
A vent should be open in the storage room, and a strong fan should be used to keep the internal air moving
Storage crates should have sufficient ventilation holes
2. Medium:

The best medium is one that is relatively dense but well- draining:
Ideally the soil mixture should consist of 2/3 potting soil and 1/3 sand
Peat should be used sparingly, and should never form the main component of the mixture. Up to 30% is acceptable when used to lighten the mixture
A pH of 6.00 to 6.80 is best
Sterilised medium is suggested
Never use fresh manure, fresh compost or tree bark (tree bark may be used in the decoration above the medium)
3. Planting:
Use clean pots approximately 15cm (6”) tall and 15cm (6”) diameter at top for Symphony size 26/up. 24/26 is best planted in 12.5cm pots. Sonata’s and Sonatini’s look best planted in 10 cm pots
Pots must have drainage holes• Do not remove or damage existing roots
Hold the bulb so that the roots hang down into the pot. Firm in the medium around the bulb so that no air pockets remain amongst the roots
The bulb nose should be above the rim of the pot and the shoulder of the bulb just above the surface of the medium
Pots may be placed against each other on the bench. This gives a density of ±42 pots per square metre (±36 pots per sq. yd). Do not use saucers as this impedes drainage
4. Location for growing:
Hadeco® Hippeastrums may be forced in any well ventilated and well heated area
Maintain a constant temperature day and night of 26°C to 28°C (79°F to 82°F) for optimal resultsCommercial Growing Instructions - continued (page6)
Bottom heating is preferred
During the forcing period the temperatures should never fall below 22°C (72°F) or rise above 30°C (86°F). Low temperatures will slow growth, and high temperatures could cause stress in the plant
Ensure that the area is well ventilated and that the relative humidity of the air remains as low as possible
A greenhouse in which the above requirements can be maintained is ideal but Hadeco® Hippeastrums may be forced in full light as well as in darkness until the stem is 10cm in length provided the above guidelines as to temperature, ventilation and humidity are followed. If the bulbs have been forced in the dark until marketing stage, the plants will need from 4 to 7 days in medium light intensity to form chlorophyll. Rotate pots through 180° (a half turn) every few days if the light source is oblique from one side.

The following conditions will encourage shorter stems:
High light conditions,
Higher temperatures and
Reduced watering
Conversely, low light conditions, lower temperatures and increased watering during forcing will promote longer stems at flowering.

5. Timing:
During forcing, if growth is too rapid, you may slow the progress of the stems by reducing temperature. This can be done at any time prior to the buds opening, and is best done earlier in the development (when stems are 20cm high). At 9°C (48°F) growth will virtually come to a halt and the plants may be kept at this temperature for up to 10 days. A longer period at low temperature will start to impact on the ability of the bud to open. Watering is not required during this “holding” period. Light can be withheld in this time if desired
To make the plants resume growth, move the pots to a warmer area
To accelerate growth, increase the temperature in the greenhouse, always ensuring an even, constant temperature day and night. Do not exceed 30°C (86°F)
6. Watering:
After planting, water thoroughly and firm down the medium well
The second watering application should be delayed by about 7 days to encourage new root formation. A slightly cooler temperature of 20 °C during this period will additionally promote new root development
Subsequently, the medium should be kept only slightly moist. By tipping the pot upside down, and sliding the medium out from the pot as a unit you can check the moisture level at the bottom of the pot. Once the medium has dried out to 3cm from the base, it is time to water again (usually every 4 to 5 days)
It is important not to over-water as this can cause deterioration of the roots
Use tepid water of approximately the same temperature as the greenhouse air temperature
Do not water over the bulb noses
7. Further Care:

You may refer consumers to for tips on caring for Amaryllis in the home.

For further enquiries, please email [email protected]

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