Anderson, IN(Zone 6a)

Well i know this has had to of been asked before,I believe I have even read it asked here sometime previously;Anyone have a good organic fungicide that works?
May be this time I will remember to save the replies!!

Bay City, MI(Zone 6a)

Add 2 chamomile tea bags and a tablespoon of sulfured molasses to a gallon of hot water and let stand for a good while - like overnight. Use full strength in spritzer or pressure sprayer.


Southern NJ, United States(Zone 7a)

Al, what is that good for? Brown rot, early and late blight...?

Bay City, MI(Zone 6a)

Most home remedies that are aimed toward fungal control are only effective as prophylactics and not fixatives. Since it's action is topical, I'd think it would only be variably effective against infections that tend to me more localized, like leaf spot as opposed to the damping off group of fungi.

I assume you're asking about brown rot such as that which affects stone fruits as opposed to wood? I'm sorry - I have to say I don't know in either case, and I don't wish to offer false hope. I know it can't hurt to try.

I CAN imagine it as variably effective against blights if used prophylactically (tomatoes?). If you're asking about tomatoes, I think avoiding wetting the foliage if possible when watering, and watering carefully so no soil is splashed up onto the foliage is a very good practice for maters in the ground AND containers.

Don't you just hate it when your plants come down with something?


Southern NJ, United States(Zone 7a)

Thanks, Al. We do have a lot of trouble with brown rot on our peaches, and possible early blight on our tomatoes. The tomatoes are mulched and watered via a drip irrigation system, so unless it rains the leaves don't get wet. Some varieties do seem to be more susceptible than others.

What's worse than diseases are the critters. I haven't been able to grow direct-sown chard for a while now; something - possibly sowbugs - keeps eating them off when the leaves are very tiny and tender.

Anderson, IN(Zone 6a)

I get small brown bean beetles everywhere,and the mushrooms of about eight non edible types that show up everywhere including the tree parasitic types. I like cooking the giant puffballs into gravy,the ancients use to slice them for bread .Personally I prefer the bread as it is!
I could stand doing without the puffs as to remedy my fungus problems.!

Deep South Coastal, TX(Zone 10a)

I've tried the chamomile tea, it "sometimes" works to prevent damping off.
A preventative spray of 1 part milk to 9 parts water works for squash, but only if you faithfully keep spraying every week, more often if it rains.
Neem oil works both as a preventative and also a curative for powdery mildew. Don't spray in the heat of day and don't follow with a copper/sulphur spray for at least 2 weeks.
Copper and sulfur are both allowed in organic gardening, be careful as some plants do not like sulphur sprays, especially cucurbits.

Savannah, GA

I've been using a couple different brands of streptomyces. I also have a bacillus subtilis product that is sprayed on the plant or used as a drench. Also the silica spray.

We've had a lot of rain this year and i always have problems with blight on my tomatoes, regardless. I only have a small area of my yard that I can plant stuff in, I have 5 raised beds surrounded by a fence to keep my dogs and 2 chickens out.

I don't care to use things that harm my pets or the friendly bugs so I've just been tolerating insects and disease. The main insect that has bothered me in the past have been leaf footed bugs and army worms.

This year I decided to take a more proactive approach. It's really made a huge differance!! Along with the above mentioned products I use neem, spinosad, and pyrethin.

I'm still battling some blight but it hasn't wiped me out yet. I think the silica spray is the main thing that has kept my swiss chard alive in this heat.

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