I want renovate my bathroom, something like unique with a glance. I want to change the cabinets, sink, vanity counter, mirrors, shelves, toilet, wall lighting, floor tiles and shower head.
Suggestions are very welcome.
I want renovate my bathroom, something like unique with a glance. I want to change the cabinets, sink, vanity counter, mirrors, shelves, toilet, wall lighting, floor tiles and shower head.
To keep costs down, design the changes so the current plumbing can be used. It starts getting expensive if you re-route water pipes.
I only want to change the ambiance of my bathroom and not to reroute the pipe lines. Do you think which is much better hiring a contractor or getting advice from others and do it myself?
This message was edited Feb 14, 2014 9:42 PM
I'm a do-it-yourselfer. Have a scout around your local area. They may have a weekend course on how to renovate a bathroom.
Jasper - decide on your desired finishes first. Then do some homework so that you have an idea about what those finishes cost. Costs can be really crazy and nothing more disheartening then to get the bath design set in your head only to learn no way to get it in the budget. If you are willing to share the design platform -- maybe consider hiring a designer. That way you can start with the budget on forefront and benefit from designer experience for cost savings and also for finish/design substitutions. Sort of like the way some would approach a garden design on a budget.
I got my original design idea from the houzz site. Then found an ADA designer. About o start the project. Took some time to locate contractor.
I "updated" our bathrooms 6-9 mo ago. We had spent so much money on the rest of the house I was looking for a cheap alternative so I could look at them and not cringe LOL.
EVERYTHING is original except Light Plates, Toilet Seats, Light Globes, and TP/Towel Holders.
Countertops- Refinishing Kit from Giani
Cabinet Paint- Also from Giani
Toilets, Sinks, Tubs- I used Homax Tub and Tile Refinishing Kit
The rest is just paint :) Wont last forever but itll last until I can replace them. Might be an option for you to see what you like before you drop some major $.
Jasper - where are you with the bathroom?
We just started - permit delays, choosing finishes and paint, tile no longer available, changes in a window design , vacating the bath and bedroom ( DUST WITH SANDING - closest floors getting refinished) etc., all takes time. Glad it has FINALLY started.
Scope: We are replacing cabinets (same configuration) - with minor soffit changes above the cabinets. New counter tops - quartz, new toilet and sink - same quality levels as before, same floor --but sanded and stained (now painted) new lighting - cans with LED, different mirrors - no sconces all lighting overhead in soffit, No change in plumbing positions. Change from curbed to curbless shower- upgrade in ceiling fan. What started the renovation was a poorly designed shower with regard to ventilation design (no escape of humidified air) and resultant mold issues.
Main goal is to get a easy clean/ minimal care design that will accommodate future agiinexpensive and to get the best possible ventilation design --utilizing no doors, big window, adequate humidity ventilation. The the rest is just fluff (cosmetics).
You asked for suggestions
Adequate ventilation - your scrub arm will be happy. Your lungs will be happy. Research CFM needs and auto humidity /auto fan on controls. Size the fan to the room. There are even lights that keep mold down.
A good toilet that is glazed all the way down the chute- less expensive models don't continue the glaze. The rest is all fluff and subject to laws for water conservation.
ADA ( toilet height ) handle designs on cabinetry, bars in shower, door width openings -- including shower if you want a shower door, higher cabinet heights, sink fauctet locations, bright lighting, non slip surfaces.
Finishes that can take a good scrub and cleansers. I am one of those clean freaks.....sniff behind my ear - eau de clorox! I love the look marble and granite but went with quartz for this reason. Wanted stainless sinks but spouse dug in and we went with midline Kohler porcelain -- BE SURE SINK IS GLAZED UNDER THE LIP for drop in style ---there are reports that water getting under there will eventually cause rust spots on inner surface of sinks. Bleeds thru.
Bath designer to get all you want accomplished within a budget. Few hours - few hundred bucks but worth it in my opinion.
Submit your plan to several contractors mine ranged from $ 86K to 35K same job...same materials... No kidding. I got 4 estimates.
I bought all I could over the Internet . Saved about $ 600. The local plumbing supply met prices on Internet price for sinks and for the toilet.
This message was edited Jun 24, 2014 8:30 AM
missingrosie, you are right, I'm impressed your ideas and your attention. The Bedroom is a private and personal room if you want to make it attractive and stylish so i suggest you that you consult with any expert renovation company they definitely help you with according your mind.
I lowered the room switches. Made sure the fan had an auto 'on' for the night light. If you don't emphasize that - the electrician who also has a budget he would like to preserve may not give you that extra switch .. The fan with any type of sensor ( humidity, motion) always needs to be wired 'on'
We had no choice but to let the door open against one of the entry light switches 😞 but you may want to look for that.
Do not let shower grout be anything less than epoxy. It is a pain ( altho there have been improvements) for the installer but you don't want less because of mold with the other stuff. Also there are great systems ( VIM is one I think) for putting membranes under everything to prevent leaks in the bathing area. If you go with curbless and no door - you would eant to extend those waterproof surfaces a little ways outside the shower entrance.
I have a photo I will upload of construction.
Even tho showerhead on back wall...we put the faucets to control on low right entry half wall so we don't have to reach in to the far back ( in case of future disability )
Thx for kind words G-Steve😊
This message was edited Jun 24, 2014 8:47 AM
As you can see, waiting for bullnose. Sink needs another splash, etc., the quartz guys MESSED up corner trying to notch it and so we are trying to find a solution for that...it may be to pull the center cabinet out and cover the messed notch with a straight splash...the center cabinet being flush with the two sides compels the quartz to be notched against the cabinet frame....SKILL should have been used but the sub I think did it freehand - no kidding. Grrrr
Here are photos of that stellar notch! 😝
When my husb. and I remodeled our kitchen he made all the red oak bullnose trim for countertops by laminating 2 pcs. of red oak tog. and then routing the bullnose trim. I didn't want any sharp corners so all are rounded and that was tricky but he has patience when it comes to custom work. No cabinet co. wanted to make it for us so he did it.
Said it was too small a job. We needed 28 feet of trim. I have 3 foot diameter lazy susan in 1 corner that otherwise would have been difficult to reach into for pots and pans. I could never have had all the extras that he made done by professionals??? We couldn't afford it. He cut every stick of wood piece by piece so everything fits perfect and not an inch wasted. A cabinet man that visited us after said it would have cost over $50,000 to do what we did and I was shocked. Now my husb. is 79 and has put in 3 or 4 complete kitchens either for us or our kids and he says no more. He does a great job for a non-pro. Every inch practical and all draws made from scratch pull out so easily. I'm the finisher and took my time to sand and prep and then paint. 27 doors and 16 drawers. 10 years later and still holding up well. Needs to be sanded and repainted now so I'm praying for a whole load of energy one last time. I'm 77 so I'll probably be slower to do a good job. Will take all of them down and do it out in his workshop to keep sanding dust out of the house. Struts between doors of course have to be sanded inside so will put construction plastic up to close off the kitchen. It's too hot here now to even consider doing it but when winter comes I'm hoping for the get up and go to do it.
Missingrosie my DH would have a canary over a cut like that. That's pure careless and considering the price of bldg. materials now that's sad. Hope you enjoy the finished product.
I'm sure it will be beautiful.
I threw them out - got the job done right with the next guy. 😏no kidding
We are happy with result. Quartz was fixed and looks good. Shower a breeze to clean. Scared the curb less entry and no shower door would cause interior of bathroom to be wet / flood etc., but no issues (whew). Love the french casement window. Installed a really good exhaust fan with humidity sensor. We did what we could with lighting - with SIP difficult to retrofit lighting / electric in the foam walls. Here are some photos. Difficult to get a photo since an angle and a door are preventing a straight shot with camera. Not a fancy 'spa' (in my next life) but tried to make it accessible by lowering some things, raising others, bright lights, curbless, etc.
This message was edited Nov 19, 2014 3:22 PM
Missingrosie, congratulations on your bathroom. You made some wise choices in thinking ahead with such things as the lower niches and adjustable shower head. Too many people never take such possible future needs into consideration.
I'd very much appreciate it if you would give me some information. I'm working on a shower right now and would like to know how wide your shower wall is so that the water doesn't splash out. It's already planned to eliminate the step down and have it curbless. Thanks!
46 inches going from the back wall heading out towards the shower entrance opening ...that 3/4 high wall topped with glass is about 6 inches thick and holds the piping for the shower and so the 46 is to the INSIDE surface of that wall and if added to the 46 it is it 52 inches for water to spatter acceptably before reaching the main toilet area. The shower area LENGTH is 55 inches..I am never sure what is width or length and so I am calling the back wall to entrance width...it is probably the other way. 😊.
Our house is SIP construction and so we needed to build the wall that holds the shower head OUT into the space to support the plumbing behind. Like a false wall. Cannot cut into the foam of the SIP exterior or channel piping thru it without expense. So end result is that we lost a few inches in length from what we originally had. Still large enough to push a chair in and pull it straight back out ..not enough to make a complete circle with a wheeled chair.
The floor drain is dead center and it is sloped -- but the slope is such that we cannot feel it or perceive it. That helps keeping water IN the space I am sure.
The shower head ( the upper ) is dead center on the inside of the shower and the slider shower head is off to the right corner and rotates freely on the bar so we can direct it - it is hand held anyway. I have only used it to rinse the soapy walls after I have cleaned the walls with Dawn and a soft brush.. Not actually showered with it.
The ceiling is tile and that really is nice for moisture and the glass goes up pretty high only stopping to let moisture out. I have taken photos for you. By the way..the glass fogs but very very little actual water is spattered on it and that really surprises me..the water runs from the fog but does not hit the glass. The water spatter from the shower does get into that 6 inch wall floor area ( mild ) but never into the toilet dry portion ...I never would have believed it ( the contractor said no spatter issues and the tile guy too...but I still had my fears)
Hope the info helps. Good luck with your Reno!
By the way..under the shower head in the photos it is a plain flat tiled wall...the whitish rectangular shape is a reflection from a window on the glass. I mention this because when we think of spatter...I think so much depends on objects that the water has to bounce off. The only objects in the shower are of the human variety. As you will see from previous earlier photos, we took advantage of that false wall and built the soap-shampoo niches INwards and so there is nothing that the water spray hits that may cause bounce.
This message was edited Apr 19, 2015 2:15 PM
Thank you SO much for taking the time to answer my question with such thorough information!
missingrosie== for a price range, you must have meant 8,600 to 3,500 dollars, right? we are waiting on our first rough estimates.
Nope. 86K ( but had some custom closet, new tile flooring, and ceiling changes in that highest one and MY GUESS a better cabinet ) to 35K for the "down to earth" bid with midline cabinets. (Midline meaning no particle board...quiet self close drawer...and no staples in drawers..)
I went to HOME DEPOT AND LOWES ( said 'the hell with this, I will contract my own cabinetry" and got the cost at $11K JUST THE CABINETS. I am not kidding. Went to both places for estimates -- a kraftmaid grade..not the best but a good all wood cabinet - cherry or maple.
JUST THE SHOWER room part of the Reno job -- with multiple estimates ( not 'Cadillac ' contractors either -- ) just the shower and all the tile and a window and the fixtures ( and fan) in that small shower area including demo and removal of the old was 15-17 thousand.
I watch HGTV and I see walls knocked down...,new widnows granite countertops new appliances, floors, electric, plumbing...houses GUTTED. and the 'budget' is 35k. They even get FURNITURE! I don't know how. I live in the Raleigh/ Durham Area of NC - and it is not N.Y. or LA.. .. We got multiple bids. My budget was 20-25K. I thought that was plenty because the bath and kitchen are two most expensive. It was not good enough no matter how I cut and diced it. We did have a contractor and would have been less $$ if contracted ourselves... But I didn't feel up to it with electric and also the new ( for us ) curbless. I wanted to be sure no floods nd did not want the hassle if it was not done correctly.
We did have a big demo and a lot of mess.
I hope you do better on your estimates but I am pretty sure we got the best price we could.
did get a good porcelain tile ( went to EVERY tile dealer in area for price checks)
Got a Toto bowl...
Hans Grohe Fixtures
custom window ( French casement)
and the glass in bath ( that little piece on 3/4 wall) was a clear sparkle ( little to no 'green' tint)
After job completed - I contracted my own glass / mirrors to save contractors 20 percent. the shop only works with contractors - no public..but I begged and they did it. it was LESS than Home Depot or lowes estimates.
This message was edited Apr 25, 2015 1:43 PM
...I told the first contractor ( the high $$ guy) that my ENTIRE house cost ~ $160 and I could not even consider paying half that for a bath!! -- which is fraction of the overall sqaure footage. We were looking at $200 a sq foot for a bath! He pointed out " bath most expensive room in the house...not an empty addition" and he reminded me that was 16 years ago when building was $ 35-50 a sq foot. I figured a bath $65-70 a square foot.... Well....I got an education and it was a humbling experience! I felt like an old aunt saying " why, when I was a kid...shoes cost $3 "
thanks... you've probably prevented a heart attack or two here when we get our estimates. I was scaling it compared to the kitchen that we partly did ourselves. We'll be paying the labor this time that we didn't on the kitchen.
I don't think my fixtures and finishes will be quite as nice as yours, but the designer said once she gets square footage, that my choices won't be significant.
Well, I hope you don't get that sort of surprise... If we could have done without the contractor's 20 percent it would have helped ...plus who knows how much that percentage really was ( but I will say every single estimate / allowance came in on budget except for electrician and we added some extra lights in there. Plus to "save" $$ we ordered our fan ahead of time since so important with the high CFM requirements with the foam core construction......after installation, humidistat did not function ad so electrician came back twice to remove and reinstall and change a switch that was specific to that fan. Had we let the contractor supply it....and it malfunctioned ....no extra charge for us..,😣) Oh well...the road to hell....
I hope your Reno turns out PERFECT and you are happy with the function and end result of your new space. Post photos!
I have a soap dish built like that but much smaller from ceramic - this looks more functional. ( I could not get the first link to open ..tried several times and it said " error " but I will try after I get back from tutoring (volunteer in kindergarten - those kids do lots more than we did in that grade)
Anyway, my kitchen sink has a sort of built in 'tickle' ledge that directs water off...so that as I wash..and rinse...I set the dishes on the ledge and the water drains .... sometime I use it for all the soapy dishes to keep them separate from the dirty in the sink and rinse all at one time.
Dishwasher OK (on holidays ) but I really like handwashing and watching the birds at the feeder.
The lines in the sink don't direct toward the main sink as you can see...but it works that way...maybe the entire sink is countoured for it?? It is 96 percent pulverized granite with a little bonder for the mold. Several years old and not a bit of problem..it is not like the acrylic bonds which I have read have a problem with cracking. It is a fortune at Ferguson but I got it on the net for a fraction of the price and it was beautifully wrapped and protected.
Do you see the honey bear container? It is great for holding dishwashing liquid. 😊
I am such a hoarder....😳
This message was edited Apr 30, 2015 9:30 AM
that is a really beautiful sink! I've never seen that design. I redid the kitchen three years ago but had no flexibility in sink width, so I went with a deeper one, stainless, from Krauss,, also arrived well packed, good price for quality.
Krause has a granite sink. Don't know it's specs. I am sure it is functional. Our sink plenty deep for toddler bathing and deep pots. Occasionally, I cream it with furniture wax to deepen the shine. Fergusons Plumbing wated over $1200. We found (not hard to do ) @ e-faucets for $346 same sink. Free shipping too. We are real happy. Daughter got one at Lowes ..no bi-layer..no divider and she loves it. Hers in a gray I think. I love stainless too. Wanted those for bath but could not get size in undermont.
DIY renovation is the easiest and money wise solution. In doing it you must first decide what you want your bathroom should be, make some imagination and research..I preferred using my old stuff then create a new decoration for my living room...
a DIY bathroom job in my house would inevitably have unfinished or poorly done details. We have our limits.
Two local general contractor both estimated, and came in very close. About 11-13 K for a moderate level update of all surfaces and fixtures of small full baths.
I can see I need to move to MD before we undertake any more labor intensive renovations! 😊
I am glad you got close bids..makes it feel like both make sense.
I hope your Reno goes smoothly and you are happy with the results.
The hardest part for us was the time it took because the bedroom was cleared too ( we had wood floor refinished and we painted it ourselves ) Everything piled in living room - clothes racks and all. The bathroom tile folks were here for two and 1/2 weeks straight 8-5:30. -- did a great job but hard to have folks here in and out cutting tile etc. All the subs were real nice. We got lucky.
I'm working with a friend/client now who got an estimate of $22,000 for her master bath. This is about the national average, and I think he just chose that number for that reason. It's going to come in cheaper because she finally realized that estimate included using subs and the markup that included for the contractor. We're getting inexpensive, but good looking, porcelain tile at Lowe's, and we're hiring the best tile guy around; and he doesn't overcharge. She also wanted the first guy to tear out the bedroom carpet, paint the walls, and tear out and install new baseboards. Suddenly, the total price escalated to $34,000! That was when she saw the light, and stormed out. I never did trust that first company; and though I was tempted, I didn't say, "I told you so."
I'm getting the more expensive trim tile with my designer discount, and I don't mark it up for her.
My husband and I redid our en suite guest bathroom completely DIY and saved a bundle. We also ended up with a uniquely creative bathroom.
When all the dust cleared ( literally and figuratively ) it was worth the upheaval. I love the two new french casements. Opening those up wide with the breeze blowing thru the bathroom is great and so much less steam. Will miss it in the winter. I am not that brave. The high CFI exhaust fan works real well. It has a humidity sensor and so I don't have to go to war with hubby to keep the fan on for a bit. We had a real bad mold problem worsened by a poor design and now it is all corrected.
One thing to NOT love about my house- four bathrooms - zero windows in them!!!
We only have 2 bathrooms and the master got the windows. Empty nest and so spare not used much for guests -- which is good because no way to put a window -- surrounded on all sides by rooms. We did install a high CFI in there - no humidity sensor. We replaced awning style windows in the master and dressing area. Both windows were acrylic 'block' style for privacy but wind out awning really not real good with ventilation. These new windows open like a door and the breeze blows!! Had to add a frost finish for privacy -- would have been so great if could be clear glass. We are in the woods - no close neighbors - but I have no sense of adventure! (I don't want to scare the deer)
I guess the interior bathroom stays cozy in winter. Some consolation
Our remodelers stressed that it is really good to use your vent fan.
Yeah that bathroom sure looks great.. I'm thinking of considering this design while renovating my bathroom.
You can search online for bathroom that will catch your eye. I think green color is better for your bathroom color.. Because Green is Clean..
You must be done with your bathroom renovation. I hope you had had the best service available. There are many things to be kept in mind while going for a bathroom over-haul. Bathroom revamp can be overwhelming, time consuming and costly. Prepare your budget and work out a time limit. Plan the sequence of job to be carried out. Be cautious about water damage, structural deficiencies in floor framing, plumbing and non-water proof shower/tub surrounds etc. Look for the best design and functionality. Jot the measurement and hire reliable contractors. Your bathroom should be spacious. The fixtures or bathroom accessories you choose should fit your budget and should last long. Choose appropriate lighting, flooring, cabinets, storage, shelves. Check out for this blog on choosing the right faucet. Refer this useful blog on uncluttering bathroom space http://www.dispenser.com/blog/organizedbath/cut-clutter-with-utterly-amazing-ideas-for-bathroom-organization/