Carrots, Onions, Radish Seeds

Plantersville, TX(Zone 9a)

These vegetable seeds need to be planted directly in the ground. They cannot be planted inside the house.. Because they cannot be transplanted. Also, these are considered cool weather plants, so they need to be planted in the fall so that when spring comes around the corner, they have roots & are ready to take off. That is, when the spring warm sun comes around, they are ready to take off. Remember to fertilize as soon as the seed comes up, & keep well watered.

Enterprise, AL(Zone 8b)

Onions seem to transplant quite nicely, can't say the same for carrots and radishes.

Everson, WA(Zone 8a)

onions should be planted in the ground late aug early sept. Onions are a crop that matures in 270 days. This will give you the biggest onions as long as you take proper care and weed free your onions along with a good watering and feeding. Onions are 88% water so watering schedules must be kept.If you starv them for water they become hot.

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Plantersville, TX(Zone 9a)

So if the onion set is planted in Aug. or Sept., when should the onion seeds be planted?

Everson, WA(Zone 8a)

Behillman I don't know diddly squat about your seasons in texas. I also don't know how many days your set has grown. But the 270 day mark is for from seed plantings. One thing I do know for sure is I grow way bigger onions from seed than I ever have from sets.

Charleston, SC(Zone 9a)

Not saying this is what one should do, but I have had considerable success transplanting radishes this winter. I ran across some really old seed packets (2004 & 2007) this winter & did the seed test by placing some on damp paper towel. I really didn't expect to see germination with such old seeds but was shocked when 9/10 of them sprouted. I took the 'naked' seedlings off the paper towel, potted them up in peat pots, and later planted them outside in January. Every single one of them survived. I ate some just yesterday.

The radishes I planted in the manner described above actually did much better than the 2014 seeds I sowed outside directly in the ground and at the optimum planting time for my area. I suspect many of the 2014 radish seeds which I planted outside directly were probably adversely effected when we had a totally unprecedented ice storm about a week after I sowed the seeds. I covered the young plants in my garden but didn't cover newly seeded areas.

Enterprise, AL(Zone 8b)

Here is a video by Dixiondale farms, I believe they are in Texas , they are a huge onion grower. So this information should be relevant for you.

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Everson, WA(Zone 8a)

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Everson, WA(Zone 8a)

I have bought many times from Dixondale and always received quality plants and a full count. The only problem is having a high cost for a little order. I try to get a few friends together and split a case. I usually plant 10 bunches so that's a third of a case.

These grow huge onions to because they were plantesd in early fall and grown for about 4 months then dug and sold as onion plants.{not sets}

Zavalla, TX

I start onions from seed indoors then plant the young plants, in the garden early spring around here we call them sets, not blubs
I also plant sets(Blubs) every year, but only plant seeds for young plants if started in the green house.

SE Houston (Hobby), TX(Zone 9a)

I'm on my second batch of BEET seeds that I started inside in yogurt cups. They've actually grown wonderfully well. The first set I transplanted out are doing so well! And, everywhere I've read said that BEETS definitely will not transplant out well.

The second batch is just about ready to go out for transplanting, too!

Go figger...LOL!

P.S. Webcajun (The Bayou Gardener) has a WONDERFUL video on onion seeds he started in an old trough, in October. He planted them in pure, sifted, homemade compost. Twelve weeks later (February) he transplanted them into the garden. HUGE onion yield around May/June.,d.b2I

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Charleston, SC(Zone 9a)

Where I live, radishes & carrots can be planted in the fall as you indicated AND ALSO in winter (Jan and Feb). Onion seeds can only be planted here in fall; onion sets and bulbs can be planted in Feb. These optimum planting times for my area were established by Clemson University and are available on their website. I am currently eating radishes I planted in Jan.

Charleston, SC(Zone 9a)


The weather in Charleston, SC is very close to that in the SE quadrant of TX up to Houston. As I mentioned above, Clemson University publishes information on the optimum planting dates for vegetables in my area. They say we can plant beet seeds in fall AND also in winter. The optimum winter planting time for beets in my area is Dec 15 - Jan 30, so I would say you actually planted your beets at the proper time. Very nice looking beets, btw!

Zavalla, TX

Yep, beets grow almost all year around here I'm in Zone 8b almost the same as CharlestonSC ,we grow beets for the leaves mostly not many make it to full size about like radishes they don't make it past the garden shed I eat most of them before I get to the house which isn't but a about 100 yards.again like SC when I was on the island back in the mid 70's it snowed for the first time in a 50 years that's what we were told. it's snowed here three times this year?????? I was trying to plant potatoes in mid January but I'm not going to shovel snow to plant So my taters didn't go in until 17/18 Feb.

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SE Houston (Hobby), TX(Zone 9a)

Thanks, Dream!

I learned to love the beet greens a few years ago when my husband's Aunt Beatrix first cooked them for me. Now, I grow them for the greens, although the spiced, pickled beets I put up in November were fabulously delicious!

I'd like to try to grow them year round!

Plantersville, TX(Zone 9a)

I'm eating Brussel Sprout leaves. I pick the lower leaves, cut them up, & cook in oil & tiny bit of water, then add pieces of sausage. Salt & pepper. Humm, they are good. I can see tiny balls forming along the stem where the leaves were removed. These must be the brussel sprouts.

Charleston, SC(Zone 9a)

Bob, Gymgirl,

I thought beets were a cool weather crop and thus could not be grown in summer in our warm (hot actually) climates. Is that not true? Do you actually grow them in the heat of summer? June - Sept can be quite brutal here.

I have never tried beet greens before but will most definitely try some from the current crop. For a year or so now I've been challenging myself to taste even those parts of the plant not normally eaten (after googling to be sure it's safe to do so). In so doing, I've learned that I actually like such totally unexpected parts as [raw] cabbage core and the central stalk of the collard plant (sliced thin with tough/woody outer part removed. eaten raw like crudite). I've also been experimenting recently with radish greens, which can be eaten raw or cooked. Yes, I know this is weird, but I'm enjoying it and have found some unexpected favorites.

Charleston, SC(Zone 9a)


How interesting - and smart - that you are eating the leaves of the brussel sprout plant. As mentioned above, I've been challenging myself to sample those parts of the plant which I usually toss, such as midribs, stalks, leaves, and even cores of cabbage, broccoli, kale, radish, etc. I've also been using slivers of garlic leaves for color and seasoning (used like chives). I would not have thought to try the brussel sprout leaves. Good to know they are tasty. I hope you are allowing the plant to keep a few leaves to feed the plant and keep it healthy while the sprouts are developing.

I've been surprised to find that the plant parts we usually toss are often quite delicious.

SE Houston (Hobby), TX(Zone 9a)

I harvested a bed of broccolis and cauliflowers yesterday. The only parts that went ojn the trash are the peels from the cored broccoli stalks, and the tough cauliflower stems.

I have five (5) gallon bags of cauliflower & broccoli leaves that will make ~36 green smoothies.

Not a bad day at the backyard farmer's market. I just wish I could grow bananas, LOL!!!

Linda, who payed the A/C guy with a garbage bag full of cauliflower leaves for his own green smoothies, 3 huge grapefruits, and a $20 bill (cause that's how I roll, and because, if I had pushed the thermostat in all the way after I replaced the batteries, I would have had heat this week, and wouldnt be sick, now...)

Thanking GOD I didn't need a new compressor --yet, LOL!!!

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Plantersville, TX(Zone 9a)

Gymgirl, I'm glad to hear you do juicing. I juice also. I use carrots, oranges, apple. I found out the hard way , not to use onion. I used brussel sprouts leaves this morning with kale, apple, & wow, what a strong,green drink. I had to add oranges to tone it down. Since using the carrots, my eyes seem to do better. I went to the eye place to get new glasses, & she said I did not need any for driving like I used to have to wear per my drivers license. But maybe she meant that the law did not require it any longer.

SE Houston (Hobby), TX(Zone 9a)

I don't juice. I have a NutriBullet that pulverizes everything, including the peels. The only thing I peel is a banana. Sure wish I could grow those, LOL! The difference is that I don't lose any of the roughage (fiber) from my produce. And, every leaf in my veggie garden (except the toxic tomato leaves, and any other harmful leaves) is a contributor. I harvested five (5) gallon-size freezer bags of leaves, enough for 36 tall smoothies.

Here's one of my recipes:

Cauliflower Leaf Green Smoothie Recipe

►1 c. cauliflower leaves, washed and torn
►1 large, ripe Banana, peeled & diced
►1/2 medium seedless English cucumber or zucchini, diced
►1 c. Frozen Tropical Fruit blend (mango, pineapple & strawberry) - approx. 5-6 pcs. of fruit
►1 scoop Vanilla Whey Protein Powder
►1 tsp. Manuka Honey (Australian @ Whole Foods Stores - pricey - $30 - seeking alternate)
►1/2 c. water

I use a NutriBullet (by Magic Bullet) to blend my smoothies.

Pack the leaves into the bottom of the cup, then loose-pack everything else. Ingredients may go slightly over the Max Fill line, but, filling with water only halfway to the Max Fill line will offset the total amount of liquid from the other ingredients, once they're liquefied. This should keep your unit from leaking due to overfilling.

Pulse for 10 seconds. Remove cup from the unit and invert to force the liquefied portion down into the leaves. Return cup to unit and pulse for approx. 20 seconds more, or until the green leaves drop down and the bits are emulsified.

Pour your smoothie into an insulated Hot/Cold cup that can be placed in the freezer for future meals. Simply remove to the refrigerator the night before for a quick and easy breakfast meal the next morning!

Note: The pulpy portion will eventually separate from the liquid portion, if your Smoothie is not consumed right away. Simply thaw your Smoothie, return to the blender cup, and pulse for a quick 15 seconds to re-blend.


This message was edited Mar 10, 2014 11:32 AM

SE Houston (Hobby), TX(Zone 9a)

Cauliflower Green Smoothie

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BUda, TX(Zone 8b)

Sorry Linda, I'm not THAT much of a garden FANATIC!!!! LOL....


This message was edited Mar 10, 2014 4:23 PM

Charleston, SC(Zone 9a)

I sometimes throw a handful of kale or collard leaves in with my smoothie ingredients, and I can't taste the difference - turns it green and adds lots of nutrients but doesn't effect the flavor, at least not the way I do it.

I like to add Spenda or Stevia to sweeten my smoothies. Sometimes I add some Crystal Lite powder instead, any flavor or mixed flavors. I also puree veggies and freeze them in ice cube tray to toss into smoothies instead of ice. Makes very thick, frozen (milkshake-type) smoothies.

Gymgirl, I try to use everything, too. I like your idea of using the cauliflower leaves in smoothies!

Liberty Hill, TX(Zone 8a)

I sow radish, beets and carrot seeds in the spring and fall. My spring crop always does much better, if the cold weather comes sooner then normal the fall crop poops out. Radishes take about 4 weeks to mature so that isn't hard to guesestimate. If the seeds don't germinate in the fall they have usually rotted by the time spring rolls around and I have to resow. They are all cool weather crops but I sow all these seeds in the spring or fall.

SE Houston (Hobby), TX(Zone 9a)

Would you mind sending me a recipe or two in a dmail?


Staten Island, NY(Zone 6a)

Hi Gymgirl , can you tell me how you sow the beets seeds in doors.Last fall I sowed some in my garden bed , they sprouted but the did not do well, I want to try with them again this springThank you

SE Houston (Hobby), TX(Zone 9a)


Be glad to help out!

What follows is my process for sowing okra seeds. You can do beets the same, except the part about the white tail applies to the okras. You may not see this when sowing the beets.

Soak the beets overnight, then either direct sow them in your garden, or in the cups for starting them inside under lights.

First, I've saved about a gazillion 6-8 oz. yogurt cups. I use ones with the wide mouths, not Yo-plait or a narrow mouth 'cause they won't slide out of those easily. The less disturbance to the root mass during transplanting, the better they take to the transplanting....

To germinate my seeds, I fill a cup with water and add 1 capful of regular old, over-the-counter Hydrogen Peroxide. Drop in the seeds, label the cup, and set it aside overnight. I usually keep the varieties separate, one per cup.

I have had little tails pop out of the seeds in as few as 24 hours, so pay attention for little white nibs on the ends, LOL! [If for some reason the water starts getting cloudy (I've soaked them as long as 4 days -- forgotten, duh...), carefully pour some off and add some fresh. No need to add more peroxide.]

Once you see a good number of nibs, it's time to plant the seeds! I use either re-purposed MG potting MIX, MIX, MIX in the yogurt cups (link below to my sterilizing process) or fresh Roots Organics Potting soil (in a green camouflage-looking bag...). Whichever one you choose (or whatever else you use), moisten the potting mix first. I use a large pan/tub, and add hot water, just until it's moistened, but not wringing wet. Scoop a handful into the cup, and make a SLIGHT divot in the soil. Your planting hole should be NO DEEPER than HALF the digit of your little finger, LOL!

Make two holes toward the middle of the cup, and drop one seed into each hole. You'll eventually snip off the weaker of the two that comes up.

I set the cups into a seed tray and grow them inside under a side-x-side pair of cheap old fluorescent shop lights, until the leaves grow about 6-8" tall. My lights are on from 7a to 11p daily, and stay 1-2" from the tops of the leaves. I raise them by stacking some cut-off pieces of lumber on each end of the lights. You can also stack the lights on some books.

I just transplanted my last flat of beets this past Saturday. Here's that process:

►First, I sprinkle some Mittleider pre-plant mix over the transplant area in my raised bed.

To make Pre-Plant Mix mix together the following:
5 lbs. lime (more than 20" annual rain) or gypsum (less than 18" annual rain)
1 ounce Boron (20 Mule Team Borax)
4 ounces Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom Salts)

The above converts to the following for a smaller batch:
10 c. lime or gypsum
1/8 c. Boron
1/2 c. Magnesium Sulfate

Sprinkle at a rate of 1 ounce per linear foot in a 4' wide bed (only use when setting new transplants). I used the tip of my trowel to lightly work it into the top 2-3" of my soil.


►Turn the seedling cup over in your hand and remove the cup from the plant.

►As gingerly as possible, set the entire root ball into the hole at the same level as it grew in the cup. [TIP: Water the seedlings 1-2 days BEFORE you transplant, so the water can drain from the cups, and the soil won't break apart when you set the root ball.]

►Back fill the hole, guiding the soil down the sides then, on top of the root ball (don't disturb it), and GENTLY pat it down.

►Once they're all set, water the transplants in with a gently spray -- I use a rain wand.

►Mulch around the seedlings to keep the ground moist between waterings. (I use broken down leaf mold for my beds).

That's about it, except maybe to sprinkle some Sluggo PLUS on top of the bed to deter slugs and snails and PILLBUGS (roly polies) from nibbling on your babies!

Hope this helps!


Pic #1 Beets transplanted 2/6/14 in RB #2
Pic #2 Beets on 02/18/14 #2
PIc #3 Beets as of 3/15/14 in RB #2
Pic #4 Beets as of 3/15/14 in RB #2
Pic #5 Beets transplanted on 02/28/14 in RB #1


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Staten Island, NY(Zone 6a)

Thank you Gymgirl I will try this and let you know my outcome .I love beets a lot I can eat them like candy lol

Enterprise, AL(Zone 8b)

I was using yogurt cups, the Walmart value brand type. But I still had trouble getting the plants out, Lupines I believe. But I had some planted in the little clear plastic cups(really cheap at the dollar store) and they sled right out. No more saving yogurt cups next year.

SE Houston (Hobby), TX(Zone 9a)

Thanks for the cup tip, Seedfork!

Staten Island, NY(Zone 6a)

Hi Gymgirl, since beets seeds are in a clump do I separate them when I take the sprouted seeds out of the water or i planted it in the clump?

SE Houston (Hobby), TX(Zone 9a)

Plant the clump. You'll eventually thin down to the strongest one in the cup.

I realize I confused starting my OKRA seeds with starting the beet seeds. Process is still the same with soaking in H2O2, only you'll see white tails from the OKRA seeds quickly.

Soak the beet seeds overnight then plant two spaced out seeds in each cup. When they come up you actually can move one seed cluster to another cup. Just don't plant or transplant them too deep.

Plantersville, TX(Zone 9a)

Gymgirl. Do you use a Floresentant light that plugs into an electrical socket? The only ones I have are up in the ceiling, & thats too high for my plants.

Liberty Hill, TX(Zone 8a)

I just want to add my 2 cents, feel free to take it or leave it. I have been gardening for 20+ years and while I soak my beet and Swiss Chard capsules and Okra seeds before sowing them I ALWAYS direct seed them. They are so easy to start from seed I don't see any advantage to potting and repotting them or having to harden them off. Sometimes I will put them a damp coffee filter to germinate them before sowing them (after soaking them) but usually I just stick them in the dirt.

Behillman-you can always use a sunny window, but all of us that start pepper, tomato and eggplant seeds have a light set up so the "shop lights" are about 1-2" from the tops of our plants.

GG, I realize this is a lot of work, but you might want to edit your prevoius post so it says Okra and not beets. If somebody reads that but not this other one they mite be really confused. Just a suggestion. : )

Saluda, SC(Zone 8a)

Gymgirl, boy! you have come a long was a gardner since we first met in July 09 and started working on the e-bucket. You have just answered a string of questions for me on whether certain items can be transplanted. Thanks.

SE Houston (Hobby), TX(Zone 9a)

Hey, Lane!

So happy to bump into you again. Much too long not hearing from you.

Someday before I die, I'm gonna walk outside and toss a handful of seeds in my veggie garden, LOl! Maybe a couple of hours before I croak, if I can crawl off my deathbed.

There are some seeds that just aren't worth the trouble I go through, but, truth be told, there are several very good reasons I do it:
1. I love the challenge
2. I love observing what seedlings do, and I'm constantly learning more and more. Sort of like the Birdman of Alcatraz
3. Seeds outside need constant moisture for germination. I'm not able to provide that level of care throughout the day. Tucking them under lights inside works for me.
4. I have a relentless pill bug population that doesn't give a tiny seedling a chance.
5. Finally, I just plain LIKE starting seeds indoors- almost any seeds I have a shot at transplanting successfully. I am so proud of my beet crop this season. I hope to have transplants ready to plug into any spots that open up!

Carrots may be the only seeds I throw out -- until I figure them out, too, LOL!


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Liberty Hill, TX(Zone 8a)

I've also been told that carrots can't be transplanted, but when I pull them too early I simply stick them back in the soil to let them grow more. When I pull them again, they look the same as all the rest. I just haven't found any advantage to starting any of these indoors when they can be direct seeded. I try to do as little extra work as possible...but everybody's schedule and climate are different.

SE Houston (Hobby), TX(Zone 9a)

"They are so easy to start from seed I don't see any advantage to potting and repotting them or having to harden them off."

I don't pot and repot. They grow in the yogurt cups under lights only until they're big enough to survive a pillbug attack, or transplanting space comes available, LOL!

I held my last flat inside longer cuz the winter broccolis were still going. The beet leaves were about 6-8" long when I sat them out under the patio cover for two days to harden off. We were having a several cloudy days last week, so it took less time to harden them off before transplanting out on yet another cloudy day.

I agree that, for some, this is work--and, extra work at that.

I consider what I do to be my therapuetic, working hobby.

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Staten Island, NY(Zone 6a)

Hi 1lisac, I had trouble growing carrots before and I came across the method of making my own seed tape and I got nice big carrots . I just googled making seed tape and I followed the instructions.

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