Tomatoes leaves drying up

Miami, FL

My tomatoes leaves drying up and I do not know the cause I water them nightly and fertilizer every 7 days very lightly.
Can anyone inform me why are they drying or if I need to do anything?

Thumbnail by horse727 Thumbnail by horse727 Thumbnail by horse727 Thumbnail by horse727
Cascade, VA(Zone 7a)

could actually be too much water, i know from experience with my tomato seedlings so far this year.

if you can, switch the watering schedule to in the morning so that they will be able to use the water more efficiently as the plants go about their daily processes during the sunlight hours.

also are there any plants with brown speckled leaves? if so that would be a fungal issue.

Liberty Hill, TX(Zone 8a)

Do you see anything that looks like spider webs on the plants?

Houston, TX

It looks very much like a blite or fungus to me. Just clean up the leaves, and wash hands and tools after. Usually that is enough, to keep you tomatoes happily growing and producing.

Paintsville, KY

I apologize in advance for the length of this question. I am a new urban vegetable gardener. First timer! I have spinach, lettuce, kale, and peas; all doing fine. I transplanted my tomato seedlings 2 weeks ago (after 7 weeks) and it seems that they, for the most part, aren't doing too well.
I only "hardened them off" for three days. Raised beds, good pH. I transplanted 2 each of 6 different varieties of heirloom tomatoes. I'm pretty sure that some of them have suffered from sun-scald. There is white on some of the leaves, so my best guess is sun-scald. I will try to add a couple of pictures if I'm allowed.
I am in zone 6 (eastern KY) and yes, I transplanted them before the "last frost date," but I am in tune with the daily weather and we are experiencing an early spring, of sorts. No frost (not even close) since I transplanted them. I have pinched off some of the "sun-scalded" leaves, thinking it was the right thing to do.
So, my two-part question is - Am I right in thinking it is sun-scald. and pinching off the damaged leaves? And, can the tomato plants still survive and produce a nice harvest?
Thank you very much!

Thumbnail by TontoRodriguez Thumbnail by TontoRodriguez
Liberty Hill, TX(Zone 8a)

Tonto- you may want to start another thread with your question. Otherwise it will be very difficult for people to see your question.

SE Houston (Hobby), TX(Zone 9a)

Looks like sun scald to me, too. I've experienced that before, but I didn't pull the leaves off. In my experience, this happened when I wet the leaves and then the sun hit the droplets. Probably used them like magnifying glass on the leaves.

My crop didn't suffer any for having a few sun-scalded leaves.

Just be prepared to protect your seedlings in case of an off-cycle frost in the coming weeks before your "last frost date," LOL!

And, be advised that too much wind can be damaging to young seedlings, so do some research on some type of hoop. I've posted instructions for a simple bent PVC pipe hoop that can be covered with several different types of material protection, depending on your season.

My PVC HOOP instructions (a very early version of the instructions):

Google Pics of PVC Hoop Houses:


Paintsville, KY

horse727 - I did not mean to hijack your thread. I thought I was starting a new one. Sorry!
Gymgirl - Thanks for your response. I appreciate your advice and expertise!

Liberty Hill, TX(Zone 8a)

Tonto, I hope I didn't sound rude, as that was not my intent. I just want your question to get the views that it deserves.

Paintsville, KY

1 lisac - No, you did not sound rude at all. On the contrary, it is helpful to give direction to someone who is not only a new to gardening, but new to forums as well. Thanks!

SE Houston (Hobby), TX(Zone 9a)



I think it goes much deeper then mention above, it looks like your plants shutdown I have a question for you are your tomato plants in pot's, if they are your PH just might be to high tomato plant's shutdown when your PH is to high no matter how much you fertilizer it wont do you any good the, only thing i can think of is to get some potassium sulfate 0-0-50-17 that just might kick start them back to health, but I don't know if your an organic Gardner but potassium sulfate is 50 % potassium and 17 % sulfur witch you can add to the watering can, tomato plants love a PH 5 to 7 they are an acid loving plants.

Liberty Hill, TX(Zone 8a)

A PH of 7 is neutral, not acidic. Ive gardened 20 yrs in limestone using well water so my conditions are alkaline but I've never had problem growing tomatoes or any other veggies. I know blueberries are acid loving plants but I've never heard of tomatoes referred to as such.

Be careful amending anything in a container, a little goes a long way. You can always test your soil ph.


Here is some reading for you Lisac:
just copy and paste.

Liberty Hill, TX(Zone 8a)

Not sure what I'm supposed to read on that link but thanks...I'm not having any issues growing my 75 tomato plants and I didn't start the thread. All I know is that a ph of 7 is neutral, right in between 0 and 14. I prefer to go with what I know works from experience and if they where true acid loving plants people wouldn't be adding lime when they plant them.

Feel free to check out the tomato forum, there are many members with a lot more education and experience then myself and while many plants require acidic conditions to grow I've never known tomatoes to be one of them. It's also been my experience that potting soils are pretty balanced in PH and nutrients. If tomato plants needed a h of below 7 to grow I don't know why my plants are doing fine, and always have.

Delhi, LA

My tomatoes start to lose the bottom leaves every year about the time they put on tomatoes at that level. I always just think the plant begins to kill of the leaves they don't need any more. The foliage above always look look until the fruit up higher begins to grow.

Magnolia, TX(Zone 8b)

Lime is for calcium. Ky and Tn have soil that is chert, you have to lime for the plant to uptake nutrients, but this is a raised bed- what was added should have been garden soil and not a problem to the tomato. Sometimes new beds are too hot, or unsettled, or could have moles or such if not blocked from them. If the spinach is doing good, it stands to reason the maters would struggle, try them in a different place away from cabbages and spinaches. Basils, borage, and monarda grows well where maters grow...

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