Propagation: Azaleas and Rhododendrons

Biggs, KY(Zone 6a)

Out of curiosity, where are the seeds on the plant?

Village of Port Clem, Canada

This is an interesting question, because they never self seed, in my experience.
The seeds are of course produced from the flowers, but they aren't obvious. I am going to watch out for them next spring.

Port Hadlock, WA

Ready to start, bought "Hormex #8 powder, "captan" it is a shaker of powder, do I dilute it for watering or add an amount to the rooting powder process? Also, how wet or moist do you keep the soil and area you keep these cuttings in? yet to build the mistiing system that I will have over the top of this area, is that right? Thank You

Port Hadlock, WA

Pete2 where are you? Has anyone got a line on pete2

Hurst, TX(Zone 7b)

I am not much into propagating by seeds but the best time to collect hydrangea seeds is in the Fall, when -for example- you can cut off a whole dried bloom, place it in a plastic bag and shake it big time. Until the Fall (October? Nov?), they may not be willing to give up the seeds. The dust that accumulates at the bottom of the plastic bag is the seeds (you can discard the bloom debris). You can then lightly scatter the seeds in moistened potting mix. They are tan or light brown in color, about the size of a grain of salt and some look like a greek urn.

Silver Spring, MD(Zone 6b)

What's this evergreen and decidious azaleas mean? I know from sight that there are different varieties of azaleas just like other flowers or shrubs. . Has anyone used a bubbler or homemade cloner to root your azaleas? Terri, since your plan is to root the quanity that you mentioned, would a bubbler/cloner be more advantageous to you and faster? Token from over at GW and Jeanne Richardson from Tx have made their own, and I'm sure there are others that have mastered this rooting method. Jeanne can be found on the Clematis/rose forums.

Hurst, TX(Zone 7b)

It refers to native azaleas and some of the hybrids developed through the years. See some here:

http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/videos_posters/videos/deciduous_azaleas.html

Enjoy the movie!

Guntersville, AL(Zone 7b)

I thought I would share some of my experience. I have never had any success rooting deciious azaleas but air layering has worked well for me. (see the Weebus comments) About the 1st of June I wound ; a could of half inch shallow scraps, the base where the new growth has begun and dust it hormondin. I then wrap a good amount of spagnum moss around the branch and use plastic wrap to cover the moss and secure it with twist ties top and bottom. It should stay moist enough until October when a good root mass has grown into the moss and the whole wrap can be removed from the parent. It is a good idea to check the wraps every month or so to be sure that it is not drying out too badly. Spagnum moss does take a bit of effort to get moist again. This same process can be used on both Rhododendrons and evergreen azaleas but the cuts should be a bit deeper and longer on rhodies and the time to root can take up to a year. On evergreen azaleas you can get a much larger rooted plant using the previous years growth. Rhodies should be on the current years growth. I do my small leaved rhodies (PJM and Olga Mezzit) at about the same time in June and they also root out well by October on the current years growth. Evergreen azaleas can be easily rooted as new growth cuttings taken starting by mid June and going in to Sept. Pete2's post is a really good starting point. I use ground bark (sold as soil conditioner) with some promix added as the rooting medium in 4" pots that a quart zip lock bag fits over rather snuggly (up to six cuttings in a pot). It is not uncommon for root formation to occur in 4 weeks although six weeks is the norm and occasionally 8 weeks. My cuttings range from 2 to 6 inches depending upon the hybrid. Once rooted, they go in to individual 4 inch pots and continue to root out and grow. Sorry Luis_pr but I have greenhouses where they may over winter if they put on new growth that will not harden up prior to winter's arrival otherwise they go into gallon pots and are held in a sheltered area. By the next fall they are ready for garden planting. Rhododendron are a bit different. I use dip-n-grow on cuttings taken in early September although I want to start earlier this next year just to see what happens. These I use the same mix for but bigger pots that a gallon zip lock bag fits over (4-5 cuttings per pot). I have done them both with a heat mat underneath and without heat and the heat does seem to help in rooting but maintaining the proper soil moisture is trickier. I have had rooted cuttings in a short as six weeks but 3-4 months is the norm and I have had one that I refused to give up on that took a year to root. Keeping records of your rooting attempts is a very good thing. I hope this helps anyone coming upon this post. It's not rocket surgery

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