Blunt-tongued Greenhood (Pterostylis atrans)

Churchill, Victoria, Australia(Zone 10a)

Blunt-tongued Greenhood in East Victoria, Australia, November 2000


Common name: Blunt-tongued Greenhood
Family: Orchidaceae
Genus: Pterostylis
Species atrans

Plant Link: http://plantsdatabase.com/go/55782/

Thumbnail by kennedyh
Newark, OH(Zone 5b)

Those plants just tickle me. They look like Muppets!

San Francisco, CA

Another winning shot! Do you set the aperture? I am trying to learn how to do that.

Churchill, Victoria, Australia(Zone 10a)

Thank you for your appreciation of my photos!
Nowadays, with automatic exposure, I usually use the mode where I set the exposure and let the automatic set the appropriate aperture. I do remain very aware of the aperture, because small aperture gives a greater depth of focus to the picture. Sometimes you don't want too much depth of focus. The out of focus surround often enhances a flower photograph, helping it to stand out from the background.

San Francisco, CA

I have some torch lilies that I want to photography, but so far I can't do it. I lost the manual for my camera. When I am in the photo mode, I can't set the aperture and when I go a mode where I can set it, then the photos were all red, some kind of infrared light was turned on.

I wonder if I can find the manual for my camera on line? But, then I am afraid even that would not help. It may be too technical for me to understand. Maybe if I take it to a camera store and ask someone how to set the aperture?

They are very nice torch lilies, and I even thought I should hold up a background behind the flowers to force the camera not to focus on the far away. Maybe a big piece of flat plastic to get the shot?

It does have an AE lock, maybe I should be setting the aperture, locking it, and then going to photo mode, but I don't know if AE stands for aperture.

I agree the fuzzy back ground looks great on that shot. It looks like an outer space creature. Green helmet and two antenia.

Newark, OH(Zone 5b)

AE stands for automatic exposure. It's handy for things such as back-lit subjects or other odd lighting situations. AE lock lets you get close to the subject and lock the exposure to the part of the subject you want the camera to expose correctly, then back off from the subject and recompose the frame.

On my camera, the 10x zoom makes for easy blurring of backgrounds; the more you zoom in on a subject, the shallower the depth of field. Try setting your camera to its macro mode, then back off a bit and zoom in rather than keeping the lens wide open and coming close to the subject. With mine, I can do macro shots from 5 or 6 feet away because of the strength of the zoom. That sure beats having to get down on the ground for so many shots like I used to!

If your camera has a portrait mode, sometimes depicted as a profile of a face on menus and buttons, try using that. It automatically goes with a wider aperture and results in a shallow depth of field. On some cameras, such as mine, you can combine the portrait mode with macro. Just experiment and have fun - nice thing is, you're not out any film or developing costs!

San Francisco, CA

hi garden wife, I have three modes portrait, landscape or twilight, but I use portrait all the time and hardy ever use the other two. I am willing to lie on the ground to photograph a pansy. I am not sure if I can get the same results because when I zoom in it looks like the camera is shaking more on the screen.

Newark, OH(Zone 5b)

Yes, the more you zoom, the more every little movement is exaggerated. If you use a tripod, you'll be better off. Does your camera have a jack for a shutter release cable, or do you have a self-timer mode? If so, you can set up the camera for the shot, then let the timer mode or cable release the shutter and the camera won't be jarred by your pressing the shutter. I have a tiny tripod which is super for impromptu group pictures or for photographing stuff low to the ground.

San Francisco, CA

I have a tripod also but one has to set it up which would take longer and then of course you can't shot at an angle, you have to shot straight on, which may or may not be be the best angle. For example if I shot my white oxalis straight on, you can't see the shamrock leaves. The plant has no profile.

I did the self timer with the tripod once as an expariement and it worked ok. I would go stand it the photo.

I was thinking of having the torch lilies focused then using the timer, and holding the back ground which will be a big piece of plastic in back of them. Or else I could mount the plastic on standable feet.

I have a lot of ideas. I am going to have a piece of plastic made, it is very cheap at Tap Plastics, less then five dollars for a big piece in any color you want.

Newark, OH(Zone 5b)

If you're talking about using the plastic as a background, you might want to consider rigging up some sort of fabric background you could roll up. Wouldn't the plastic glare? I know I want to rig up some sort of reflector to use for bouncing light into shadowed areas I want to show up more, and I'd like to figure out a good portable backdrop to use, too.

San Francisco, CA

I don't think it will glare, if the sun angle is not directly hiting it, but I will have to see.

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