Pressure Treated Wood

Oriental, NC(Zone 8a)

I'm planning to frame a 12x12-ft greenhouse with pressure treated lumber and have a few questions about using this material. I'm seeking solid advice.

1. What can I do to minimize warping? This is critical.

2. How should I go about drying the wood before using it? How long? How to stack? Rotation necessary?

3. How should I treat freshly cut ends? Preservative? What kind?

4. Paint or stain on finished frame? What kind? Special application?

5. What kind of fasteners? Screws? Stainless?

6. Given the extra work in using treated wood, does red cedar or redwood become cost effective?



Bluffton, SC(Zone 9a)

I would use stainless screws. Does everyone know they changed pressure treated lumber and you need to use stainless or double dipped galvinized. I always use stainless screws outside, not a big deal cost wise.

West Pottsgrove, PA(Zone 6b)

CoreHHI, I wish I knew where you shopped, around here stainless steel is abbreviated $$ instead of SS.

Hendersonville, NC(Zone 7a)

I know the thread is old, but...
We've used stainless steel screws. First box we bought was the last. Horrible. Bent easy, so had to be much more careful using them.

We've used GripRite's Primeguard exterior screws, since we're not using them on "docks, piers, or within five miles of coast line". I'm sure there are some applications where stainless steel would be preferable, but the aggrevation of the "softer" screw which bends easily is just not worth the hassle.

Note: it was using LONG screws to marry boards together that we first tried these, so you may not have the bending issue with shorter ones attaching fasteners.

It is my understanding that the "new" version of treated lumber is much more damaging to fasteners. I was told that even though it is arsenic-free, you should still wear a mask and not put sawdust in your garden. More extreme pH is hard on the lungs and tempermental plants may not like the pH changing -- and you don't want to kill beneficial insects with it in your plants.

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