Haworthia Species

Haworthiopsis attenuata

Family: Asphodelaceae (as-foh-del-AY-see-ee) (Info)
Genus: Haworthiopsis
Species: attenuata (at-ten-yoo-AY-tuh) (Info)
Synonym:Aloe attenuata
Synonym:Apicra attenuata
Synonym:Catevala attenuata
Synonym:Haworthia attenuata
View this plant in a garden


Cactus and Succulents

Water Requirements:

Average Water Needs; Water regularly; do not overwater

Sun Exposure:

Light Shade


Good Fall Color


Foliage Color:

Unknown - Tell us


under 6 in. (15 cm)


3-6 in. (7-15 cm)


USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 C (30 F)

USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 C (35 F)

Where to Grow:

Unknown - Tell us



Bloom Color:

White/Near White

Bloom Characteristics:

Unknown - Tell us

Bloom Size:

Unknown - Tell us

Bloom Time:

Late Winter/Early Spring

Mid Winter

Other details:

Unknown - Tell us

Soil pH requirements:

6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic)

Patent Information:


Propagation Methods:

By dividing the rootball

By dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets)

Seed Collecting:

Bag seedheads to capture ripening seed

Allow pods to dry on plant; break open to collect seeds

Seed does not store well; sow as soon as possible


This plant is said to grow outdoors in the following regions:

Mesa, Arizona

Phoenix, Arizona

Tucson, Arizona

Bonsall, California

Clayton, California

Fairfield, California

Los Angeles, California(2 reports)

Novato, California

San Lorenzo, California

Vista, California(9 reports)

Umatilla, Florida

Vero Beach, Florida

West Palm Beach, Florida

Cumberland, Maryland

Dundalk, Maryland

Livonia, Michigan

Poughkeepsie, New York

Saint Marys, Pennsylvania

Austin, Texas

Dallas, Texas

Portland, Texas

Bellevue, Washington

Quilcene, Washington

show all

Gardeners' Notes:


On Jan 24, 2015, poeciliopsis from Phoenix, AZ wrote:

Central Phoenix -- Haworthia attenuata is one of the mainstay Haworthias in my garden. I grow it in both pots and in the ground. It spreads steadily, but not rapidly, with 20 year old clumps being a foot in diameter. The clumps in light shade grow faster than those in deep shade. New plants are easily obtained by breaking off pups. My plants generally get light water, about once a month, although one pot in deep shade is probably watered only half dozen times a year. H. attenuata is frost hardy and mine has weathered night temperatures down into the low 20s without cover. Curve-billed thrashers have dug into the roots of H. attenuata, but have never torn it out completely or ripped up the leaves as they do with some Haworthias.


On May 11, 2011, nmcnear from Novato, CA (Zone 10a) wrote:

This plant grows very well outdoors in the San Francisco Bay Area, handling our brief dips into the upper 20s during winter with no damage damage at all. Care is minimal - I simply water these plants a few times during the summer when the weather is particularly dessicating, and repot them every two to three years. During the fall, winter, and spring, they get all the water they need from rain - be sure to use quick-draining soil so they don't become waterlogged! I grow my mine on an east-facing deck with overhead protection - the plants get direct sunlight from sunrise to about 2:00 pm, then bright shade after that. They get sunburned in full sun, but might be able to adapt over time in some areas.


On Apr 12, 2011, Spill from Mesa, AZ wrote:

Still having difficulty differentiating between "fasciata" and "attenuata," but they are one tough little plant. Any observations on why some have dried out tips?


On Feb 13, 2005, htop from San Antonio, TX (Zone 8b) wrote:

The amount of sunlight it can withstand without scorching depends upon the how hot it becomes in the summer in the locale in which it is planted. It will have more color if it receives more light. During the spring in the warmer Hardiness Zones, it may be able to take full sun until the heat arrives at the end of spring. In an area that has hot afternoon sun, it may be able to take full morning sun, but requires afternoon shade or afternoon light shade. There really isn't a detail in the list above to select that really spells this out. Also, if it is a species that is dormant in the winter, it requires very little water (maybe even none) duriing the cold months.

Anyone not familiar with its cultivation (which I wasn't until a week ago) needs to research information on gr... read more


On Aug 10, 2004, MNEVEN from New Port Richey, FL (Zone 9a) wrote:

I have a Haworthia for many years and its looks weak. The room I had it in up north had bright light, and it always look beautiful. In FL, I have it in my bedroom where the light is lower in the afternoon and the room is white. The light suggestions in this database is "light shade". I disagree.


On Dec 19, 2003, henryr10 from Cincinnati, OH (Zone 6b) wrote:

I got mine in very severe distress.
The pot had a VERY small drainage hole and it was well on the way to total rot.
As a last resort I tore out the rotted center and repotted.
I then placed it in filtered sun and didn't water for weeks.
Surprisingly, 3 months later, the plant has not only revived but the center regrew and divided. Also 5 pups have now started.
A truly tough plant!


On Oct 9, 2003, sudsyman wrote:

This plant is really pretty and easy (so far) to care for. I recently repotted mine though and found it has root rot. How is it meant to be cared for? How can I ease it out of root rot? Help? How should it be potted? Watering habits? Whatnot? It's quite neat!
Please help me: [email protected]


On Sep 19, 2003, Happenstance from Northern California, CA wrote:

Haworthia attenuata multiplies prolifically by offsetting. The offsets can be pulled off and planted/potted seperately or left to form a large clump. In shade the body color will remain mostly green, while full sun will darken it and give it red/brown body color. Can be sunburned if moved from shade/greenhouse into full sun too quickly.

Tubercles are "spotted" on the upper surface of the leaves. The lower surface of the leaves have transverse bands of tubercles. Flowers are white w/green keels.

This is not the same Haworthia as the "Zebra Haworthia" which has smooth upper surfaces to its leaves.


On Aug 25, 2003, jen_nate from Saint Marys, PA wrote:

This plant is interesting because it's like a Cactus and Aloe together. I'm not sure why the tips of mine turn brown or yellowish, other ones that I know of did this and then dissappeared. Maybe it's too hot for it in the window and it doesn't need such direct light.


On Mar 3, 2003, dawnmg wrote:

Does well potted outside in zones 9-10. Can be ever blooming if you snip off each bloom when it dies. I see two different colors listed for this plant. I have only owned the yellow blossomed one. Bring indoors when temps. drop below 70 degrees.


On Nov 27, 2001, tiredwabbit from Point Pleasant Beach, NJ (Zone 7a) wrote:

Most succulents do not need to be watered like your average houseplant. If you water or over water these succulents to much they will most likely wind up with root rot. So be very careful not to let them sit in any excess water and do not water again until dry!


On Aug 23, 2001, euphorbrom from New Orleans, LA (Zone 9A) wrote:

Very easy, and common. Offsets appear at the base; leave them atttached to form a cluster, or wait until they are 1/3 the size of the parent and then detach and plant. Native to South Africa and a distant relative of aloes.