Worsleya Species, Blue Amaryllis, Empress of Brazil, Blue Hippeastrum

On Jul 17, 2018, thequietearth from Hemby Bridge, NC wrote:

So far this second attempt to grow this plant is going well.
I have it in a mix of peramtill, a touch of peat moss and orchid bark. I wanted it daily and it responds well to watering. The roots are very slow but the bulb grows relatively fast. I purchased this plant as a single juvenile bulb about 6 months ago and it’s already double in size.

On May 14, 2012, LeStryge from Lismore,
Australia wrote:

This plant HATES poor drainage above all else, (probably the prime reason for failure and its "difficult" reputation. If your soil feels wet at all times you are heading for failure.)

Grow in a loose gravel of small stones, pumice etc. A little charcoal helps and just a tiny sprinkling of some organic material for nourishment. NOT TOO MUCH or it will hold moisture, and rot will result. Better to use less, or even none at all than overdo it!
Watering should be frequent, (every day in the heat), but able to drain through the pot almost immediately or your soil is too moisture retentive.
Fertilise frequently, preferably with a low phosphorus product. Slow release fertilizers are not so efficient as the quick draining nature of the growth medium does not promote... read more the ready release of the nutrients.

Not fond of very high temperatures, particularly at night.
Its leaves form a very characteristic "rooster tail" effect at the top of a tall stem, facing toward the light direction.
For this reason the pot should NOT BE ROTATED AT ALL, which only confuses the plant and will delay, if not prevent flowering altogether.
The leaves die progressively from the older ones, leaving the long neck of the bulb sheathed in papery protective layers. You can easily remove the older leaves as they die and also some of the sheaths if they become unsightly.

New plants (pups) are formed around the base of the bulb, which should never be allowed to become buried by the growing medium or it will rot. I like to be able to see the tops of the roots quite clearly.
Is prone to mealy bugs lurking way down in the centre of the leaves, so check very carefully and use a systemic insecticide if detected.
I believe it will produce fertile self-seed, but the progeny of self-fertilization are apparently short lived.
It's far better to divide the pups off if you are hoping to increase your plants. The plant can be tipped out of the gravel without much harm during the dormant period, and the new pups teased off with their roots attached.
When potting up always place the plant on a slight lean in the direction the leaves fall. This is the way they prefer in the wild.
The key element to success with this plant is the growing medium. Commercial potting mix, however good, just will NOT do. It holds way too much water.
Better to make you own with loose gravel etc.

On Dec 1, 2007, macybee from Deer Park, TX (Zone 9a) wrote:

This genus, closely allied to HIPPEASTRUM, consists of only one species. The fat bulb has a long neck protruding above the ground, topped by a few strap-shaped leaves; in winter a short-stemmed cluster of large trumpet-shaped flowers emerges from the leafless bulb.
WORSLEYA RAYNERI SYN HIPPEASTRUM PROCERUM, WORSLEYA PROCERA
This species was discovered on a mountainside near Rio de Janeiro in 1860, but it was not until 1899 that it was introduced to gardens by the Englishman whose name it bears, Arthington Worsley (1861-1943); it remains an expensive rarity. In the wild it grows in crevices of granite cliffs, the long bulb necks lifting the flowers into the air and sunshine. The color of the 4" wide trumpets varies, from almost white to deep lilac-blue, sometimes with spotted ... read morepetals.
ZONES: 10-12
CULTIVATION:
This bulb needs a subtropical climate (or warm greenhouse), full sun and perfect drainage. Most gardeners grow it in tall pots, the favored potting mix being a combination of granite chips with a little compost. NEVER allow the soil to dry out. Propagate from seed in spring.