Citrus Hybrid, Meyer Lemon, Valley Lemon 'Improved Meyer'

Citrus x meyeri

Family: Rutaceae (roo-TAY-see-ee) (Info)
Genus: Citrus (SIT-rus) (Info)
Species: x meyeri (MY-er-eye) (Info)
Cultivar: Improved Meyer
View this plant in a garden


Edible Fruits and Nuts



Water Requirements:

Average Water Needs; Water regularly; do not overwater

Sun Exposure:

Full Sun

Sun to Partial Shade




Foliage Color:

Unknown - Tell us


10-12 ft. (3-3.6 m)


8-10 ft. (2.4-3 m)


USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 C (10 F)

USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 C (15 F)

USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 C (20 F)

USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 C (25 F)

USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 C (30 F)

USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 C (35 F)

USDA Zone 11: above 4.5 C (40 F)

Where to Grow:

Unknown - Tell us


Handling plant may cause skin irritation or allergic reaction

Plant has spines or sharp edges; use extreme caution when handling

Bloom Color:

Pale Pink

White/Near White

Bloom Characteristics:

This plant is attractive to bees, butterflies and/or birds

Flowers are fragrant

Bloom Size:

Unknown - Tell us

Bloom Time:

Blooms all year

Blooms repeatedly

Other details:

Unknown - Tell us

Soil pH requirements:

6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic)

6.6 to 7.5 (neutral)

7.6 to 7.8 (mildly alkaline)

Patent Information:

Unknown - Tell us

Propagation Methods:

From seed; direct sow outdoors in fall

From seed; winter sow in vented containers, coldframe or unheated greenhouse

By grafting

By air layering

Seed Collecting:

Allow unblemished fruit to ripen; clean and dry seeds

Seed does not store well; sow as soon as possible

N/A: plant does not set seed, flowers are sterile, or plants will not come true from seed


This plant has been said to grow in the following regions:

Ceres, California

Chowchilla, California

Cypress, California

Folsom, California

Hayward, California

Oakland, California

Pacifica, California

Redwood City, California

San Anselmo, California

San Francisco, California(3 reports)

San Jose, California

Stockton, California

Thousand Oaks, California

Venice, California

Visalia, California

Woodland Hills, California

Blountstown, Florida

Gainesville, Florida

Homestead, Florida

Kissimmee, Florida

Miami, Florida

Navarre, Florida

Nokomis, Florida

Port Charlotte, Florida

Port Orange, Florida

West Palm Beach, Florida

Atlanta, Georgia

Bonaire, Georgia

Richmond Hill, Georgia

Wailuku, Hawaii

Newton, Illinois

Portage, Indiana

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Monroe, Louisiana

New Orleans, Louisiana

Vidalia, Louisiana

Youngsville, Louisiana

Natchez, Mississippi

Las Vegas, Nevada(2 reports)

Los Alamos, New Mexico

North Augusta, South Carolina

Okatie, South Carolina

Memphis, Tennessee

Austin, Texas

Brownsville, Texas

Converse, Texas

Corpus Christi, Texas

El Paso, Texas

Galveston, Texas

Houston, Texas

La Porte, Texas

Leander, Texas

Little Elm, Texas

Mcallen, Texas(2 reports)

Mission, Texas

Plano, Texas

San Antonio, Texas

Spring, Texas

Stafford, Texas

Newport News, Virginia

Marysville, Washington

Morgantown, West Virginia

show all

Gardeners' Notes:


On Jun 12, 2018, rjogden from Gainesville, FL (Zone 8b) wrote:

I've had my tree in my back yard about 4 years now. First year had blooms and fruit, second year covered with blooms and fruit, so many I was afraid the branches would break, 3rd year fewer fruit scattered through season. This year it's finally blooming after a brutal (to citrus) winter, cold interspersed with warm spells long enough to stimulate growth. The soft new branches and leaves were killed back not once but twice. Still, the tree is recovering and is blooming now. With some help from the bees (and assuming the Greening disease doesn't reach us soon) I expect fruit this summer and for years to come.


On Jun 11, 2018, emmeline843 from Stockton, CA (Zone 9a) wrote:

Purchased a 2 foot tall plant in April. It is growing well in a pot. It was blooming when we purchased it. The blooms fell, but no fruit developed. Flowers are starting again now (mid-June). We planted it in a cactus mix soil. When we bought it we were told that it needs good drainage and needed to dry out between waterings.


On Mar 20, 2014, purjess_08 from Westover, WV wrote:

So I bought my improved Meyer late last summer and it has been doing fine until recently. I bought it with 6 green lemons and at the beginning if fall ended up getting 21 blooms but they all fell off. The six were still healthy so I didn't worry with it. A couple months ago my leaves started falling off but the lemons were starting to yellow. About 2 weeks ago I saw that 2 of the six were turning brown at the base and fell off. Now a third one is turning brown but hasn't fallen off yet.
I use all purpose potting mix and fertilize with miracle grow tomato plant food b/c I was told the potash and nitrogen levels were good for citrus. I water ever 7-10 days. What's going on with my lemon tree and how can I fix it?


On May 2, 2013, BayAreaTropics from Hayward, CA wrote:

This tree has a worldwide cult. And where it thrives-like here in California- everybody plants it. And few lemons go to waste unlike other edibles.
No special advice..sun,water,rich soil. They can grow in large pots for decades...but the return in fruit is much smaller.
Pests? biggest are the Argentine ants..get rid of them and the tree can defend itself.
Meyer Lemon,numero uno for the connoisseurs,


On Feb 17, 2011, MrsMarbles from Los Alamos, NM wrote:

This is a very nice small tree for container gardening. I purchased a 2 yr old tree several years ago, from Four Winds Growers. It grows outside in the summer. Every winter when I bring it indoors, I prune it back to 4 feet tall. Since it blooms in spring while it is still indoors, I hand-pollinate the flowers.

It grows well in its 20" pot, seems not at all fussy, and makes fruit every year. The fruit makes wonderful marmalade.


On Jul 14, 2010, walter13 from Lutherville Timonium, MD wrote:

Purchased this plant in the spring and it has produced a long non-thorny branch (in July) that grew faster than the remaining shoots, which have small thorns. The thornless shoot is above the rootstock and the leaves are single, not tri-foliate like the other shoots. Should I leave it alone? Entire plant is now only about 1 to 1-1/2 ft high in a large pot.

The reason for concern is that I also have some ornamental orange trees that never bloom on the thornless branches.


On May 16, 2008, DannyJoe from York, SC (Zone 7b) wrote:

The only time I've seen these leaves start to curl (or droop) is when they start to get too dry. This can happen very fast in a container grown tree -- especially in hot weather. Some of your leaves may have been permanently damaged by drying out or sun scald. They do shed older leaves on a seasonal basis anyway (even pine trees do this), so no big deal.

These trees are actually very tough and will recover nicely from all kinds of abuse.

At 28dF, you will start to lose the more tender new growth.
The thorns (like most citrus) might give you a scratch, but these thorns are NOT that bad when compared to the other thorns out there (don't snag or break off and are easy to prune off).


On Nov 1, 2006, salice from Ithaca, NY wrote:

I live in upstate NY. This spring purchased a plant (that I re-potted) that I kept outside till very recently when cold weather dictated I move it inside. It has grown very well, w/ several green fruit slowly maturing, & continues to send out new blossoms.


On Mar 10, 2006, Tir_Na_Nog from Houston,
United States (Zone 9b) wrote:

The smell is intoxicating and I think the plant is beautiful, I love that it is evergreen. Ours is about 2' tall and has several small lemons already started on it!!!


On Nov 8, 2004, trifunov from Brandon, MS (Zone 8a) wrote:

I have two one year old plants in containers. They have grown from 12 inch high single sticks to around 36" high and wide in a single season. They are currently in 10in pots. The leaves became yellowed when I overwatered. A dose of Epson salts and iron helped.

They should be repotted every 1-3 years. A 1yr old tree should be in a 6-9in pot, a 2-3yr old tree in a 10-16in pot.
The minimum temp they can tolerate is 32F, Xmas lights on them will help in winter in marginal zones. Otherwise bring them inside (gradually) when night temperatures reach 40F or below. Like acidic fertilizer at least once per month (eg: 2:1:1 or miracid). Spray with water and mild dish soap for aphids and scale. Keep ants away as they will farm the aphids. Allow the top of the soil to ... read more